Custom upper ball joint stud question.

[A930Rocket]

After installing a 3” Moto level kit on my ‘14 F150 with 2WD a year ago, the upper control arm is no longer level and the ball joint housing hits the control arm at full droop. Does someone make custom or longer ball joint studs that can used in a rebuildable ball joint to raise the control arm? Obviously there is a limit to the length, but anything would help.

A 4” lift would solve it, but they start at $1k plus install and alignment.

Please don’t post about a level or lift on a 2WD. It’s all personal preference.

[asphaltgambler]

I think with out pictures its hard to tell. Does the kit reference the issue and there's something additional you need to do? Is the same for the other sides?

[A930Rocket]

Originally Posted by asphaltgambler

I think with out pictures its hard to tell. Does the kit reference the issue and there's something additional you need to do? Is the same for the other sides?

The longer stud didn’t reference the issue. See the attached link.

https://www.qa1.net/circle-track/rod-ends-ball-joints1/racing-ball-joints1/ball-joint-studs

https://www.qa1.net/circle-track/rod-ends-ball-joints1/racing-ball-joints1/ball-joint-housings

Not the same picture angle, but you can see the difference. I’d like to make the upper control are more level. Maybe there is another way to achieve it? I did wonder if the ball joint housing was modified to “lower” the ball joint. Lots is stresses for either option and beyond my pay grade to know though.

Stock suspension.


Strut with level kit.


You can see the high offset due to the level. The Freedom Offroad UCA is supposed to help with this.

You can see where it rubs at full droop.

[asphaltgambler]

Assuming the truck is sitting on the ground in both pics, suspension loaded in the bottom pics - the upper control arm geometry is wrong. At ride height you can see the control arm is way below the centerline. Clearly that's not right. If the spring / strut is that much longer, you'll need a custom knuckle assembly that is designed to be taller to correct the issue.

You should contact the manufacturer, ask them how they resolve this?

[Dansvan]

Might be something on this page that can help you out.

https://www.stage3motorsports.com/2015-F150-Upper-Control-Arms.html

[A930Rocket]

Originally Posted by Dansvan

Might be something on this page that can help you out.

https://www.stage3motorsports.com/2015-F150-Upper-Control-Arms.html

The Freedom Offroad UCA’s are what Stage 3 has. I did see that Stage 3 has an extended 1” ball joint like the QA1’s. I’ll have to see if they are universal fit.

Originally Posted by asphaltgambler

Assuming the truck is sitting on the ground in both pics, suspension loaded in the bottom pics - the upper control arm geometry is wrong. At ride height you can see the control arm is way below the centerline. Clearly that's not right. If the spring / strut is that much longer, you'll need a custom knuckle assembly that is designed to be taller to correct the issue.

You should contact the manufacturer, ask them how they resolve this?

Both pictures are with the truck on the ground. The level kit was purchased on Amazon. It was a known issue with a 3” level going in when I bought it and it’s not really hurting anything the way it is now. If I was off roading it, then it’d be another story. I’d just like to correct it as much as possible.

They have taller knuckles, but it pushes the wheel out 1/2-1”. I’m already using a 1-1/2” spacers as is and don’t want to go out further.

[asphaltgambler]

I believe that you have purchased either a poorly designed kit or incomplete kit. I would look at other known quality front lift manufacturers- see what components are part of the kit. I've done a fair amount of work like this with parts from various companies over the last 40+ years. There are times where the parts don't fit correctly, poorly designed or just plain do not work together as advertised.

It's clear the geometry is wrong as indicated by component interference.

[A930Rocket]

Thanks, AG. The 3” level is on the extreme end (and cheap) and where a proper lift starts (expensive). As it’s aligned within specs and drives great, I’ll probably see what happens long term before I make any changes.