78 Lincoln no spark but 12V to coil

[Bob Kontak]

I'm getting a little rusty so looking for confirmation/direction.

78 Lincoln has primary juice to coil but no spark when cranking. I have replaced the coil and symptoms are the same.

I can replace the entire distributor assembly for $75 as well as spark plug wires for cheap.

I believe the only thing left as a potential culprit would be connections and wire continuity between the distributor and coil.

Any other potential areas that would cause this failure?

[RANDY P]

Dizzy pickup?

[Nostril Cheese]

Is there 12V at the coil while cranking? I assume you checked rotor and cap?

Points or ignition pickup?

[Tobra]

Whatever it is, when you figure it out, it will piss you off you did not get it immediately.

Points, that is as bad as mechanical injection, and I had both of them, that little Pertronix thing is the bomb.

[manbridge 74]

You have 12V to the coil but, using a test light, is it pulsing while cranking?

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by manbridge 74

You have 12V to the coil but, using a test light, is it pulsing while cranking?

It does not pulse with test light. On but no pulse.

Originally Posted by Nostril Cheese

Is there 12V at the coil while cranking? I assume you checked rotor and cap?

Points or ignition pickup?

12V at coil when key to "on" and when cranking.

I have to assume it's the distributor pickup, and could be as simple as a poor connection. Cap rotor look ok, used but nothing awful. I suppose the distributor to coil secondary wire could be bad but easily tested.

I can test everything individually but for cheap I can replace the complete distributor assembly with new.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Tobra

Whatever it is, when you figure it out, it will piss you off you did not get it immediately.

Points, that is as bad as mechanical injection, and I had both of them, that little Pertronix thing is the bomb.

No points. Reluctor and magnetic pickup.

[asphaltgambler]

Isn't that a EEC system with a module?

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by asphaltgambler

Isn't that a EEC system with a module?

Oh boy. Lemmie check.

Edit: You are correct, Sir!

I will pull it and do the smell/shake test. I still may just replace it for $40 if it appears good.

Summit Racing has Motorcraft for $62. Right down the street.

Edit #2: Found procedures to test module. Thanks guys!

[manbridge 74]

Yep, module is next after confirmed pulse.

[fastfredracing]

Yep, module , done hundreds of them over the years, you need a special tool, or have to ground down a socket to fit in there . I think its 9/32" ??

[fastfredracing]

I stand corrected, that is the old school one where the module is a separate unit . Probably still your failure though . A bad jump start, or electrical spike would take them out.

[Bob Kontak]

Sweet! Thank you all!

Owner did a lot of jump start attempts and he's genuinely not a car fix guy.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by manbridge 74

Yep, module is next after confirmed pulse.

I cannot get a pulse.

If I connect the test light leads between coil positive and negative battery terminal the light stays on while cranking.

If I test positive coil to negative coil I get no light at all. Not with key on or while cranking. I don't understand if I should get the light/pulsing light in this test scenario.

[john70t]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

If I connect the test light leads between coil positive and negative battery terminal the light stays on while cranking.

20,000 volts or whatever would normally pop that little bulb in a second.

[manbridge 74]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

I cannot get a pulse.

If I connect the test light leads between coil positive and negative battery terminal the light stays on while cranking.

If I test positive coil to negative coil I get no light at all. Not with key on or while cranking. I don't understand if I should get the light/pulsing light in this test scenario.

Sorry, should read confirmed NO pulse. Make sure you use the goofy white heat sink paste on back side of module if it’s the inside distributor type...

[manbridge 74]

Or does this have the separate fender mounted module with, like two plugs? Maybe check connections there first...

[manbridge 74]

Originally Posted by john70t

20,000 volts or whatever would normally pop that little bulb in a second.

This sounds correct, I think I did it this way back then...

Unplug the ignition coil, put a test light between the 2 connectors and crank the engine, the light should flash, if it doesn't replace the ignition module, if it does then replace the ignition coil.

[Steve Carlton]

Curious what model Lincoln?

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Steve Carlton

Curious what model Lincoln?

Mark V and it's beautiful. Fully one quarter of a mile long. I'll get a pic on the next visit.

Originally Posted by manbridge 74

Unplug the ignition coil, put a test light between the 2 connectors and crank the engine, the light should flash, if it doesn't replace the ignition module, if it does then replace the ignition coil.

I tried this yesterday as well. I pulled the cap off, light probe on positive wire and ground clamp on negative wire. No light at all (not steady or flashing) when "on" or cranking. Can this mean the module is bad? (or module connections)

If I move the test light ground clamp to the negative battery terminal I get steady on with no flashing.