What is the cost to 3d print things?
 

Like the nylon pieces in the door striker? I've replaced a bunch but it seems only the bottom piece goes bad.

$200 for a capable machine and how Ever many hours you want to invest.

Material,costs are negligible.

I fixed our washing machine for $0.27 in material now that I kNow what I’m doing after 100 hours of experience.

The trick is that you need a 3D (CAD) model of the part.

Then send that to a print service. I have a favorite for nylon parts. (super cheap, unless you need 2 day turn.)

Any place with an SLS or an MJF printer will do.

These?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601822630.jpg

Oh.... those...

is the door breaking where the catch pin hits, or wearing the lower?

There are a plethora of 3D printing services available, from the type of stuff you are looking for to really high end stuff.

We use these guys quite a bit: https://markforged.com/

Incredible stuff. Very inexpensive service compared to staffing this type of capability ourselves.

Most 3D folks can also scan if you don't have the CAD.

If someone has the drawings, I can print them in PLA or PETG.

PLA Nooo....

PETG Yes!

I can't help but want to redesign that lower for a better strike zone. An FDM printed version would make a tough strike zone if done right.

If I find the time, Ill send you (HD) a file that you can print and send to Bryan.

PLA would not be a good material, truth. Frankly PETG is questionable as well, but certainly better than PLA. I can hypothetically print in ABS, but I have not tried it before.

Can someone make the clamps to hold on a Targa hard top? One of mine is broken. I haven't looked to see how hard removing them would be.

I tried ABS in my ender and it ended in failure. Checking U tube it seems that making a enclosure with good enviromental temperature control might do the trick, maybe.

In the category of useful info: Printing Flexible/ squishy stuff.
I did have success with TPU. I made a carb boot that allowed me to adapt a 38m Lectron carb to a Boyesen Rad valve intake on a big bore CR 125 project. :D

I used SainSmart TPU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TI3JUVA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was one of the higher durometer TPUs and I had no issue feeding.

My 5 min of research found that the really squishy stuff needs a direct drive head.

TPU will turn to crap. It may be a few years, but...

I find that printing ABS is easier than PETG.

The mistake many make is in trying to run too fast. PLA squirts like butter... toothpaste? Anyway, a bit more heat and slow it down and ABS should be fine. Its all about finding the right settings.

Check out thingiverse.com

I’ve found so many bits I needed there. It’s like the library of Congress for 3D designs.

I’ve designed several commercial products with zero cad experience.

Island you’re saying it’s speed and not “drafts”?

Mine has a heated bed and is an open design (a MagerGear M2)

My early ABS experimenting I thought the tip was clogging, but really it was the extruder pushing hard enough that it would machine away the filament, and no longer grip and feed.

If the problem is peeling/curling off the bed, then yeah, that's a "draft" problem.. or at least the base cooling off too much.

That's it! What about you guys? Do the tops and bottoms of yours go bad, or just the bottoms?

To print ABS I have a desk lamp next to the printer, with an old incandescent bulb. The heat from the bulb is enough to help with ABS. That, combined with hairspray on the glass bed, I rarely get curling.

If the extruder is stripping(too hard to push) try turning up the nozzle (hot end) temperature.

ABS really should be printed with a enclosure to maintain temp in the chamber.

Alternatively you could try ASA its similar to abs without a lot of the printing challenges associated with abs.
I have a pretty modified ender 3 pro.
Probably will be building my own dedicated printer to print more structural and useful parts over the winter.

There has to be a few maker spaces in HI somewhere. Go find one of those and ask the people inside.

Got tons of friends making piecemeal stuff for under $20.

Bryan - I have not had a problem with those breaking. I don't think... I'll check.

I have the same/ was thinking the same. Although I've switched to an LED (relatively cool) and still no problems with ABS. ABS is my go-to. -I moved away from PLA within a week of getting the printer, years ago.

I also was thinking about some may have issue with their hotend not actually being at the temp they think it is. Others tell of set-up temp's but really there are a lot of variables there, including how the software handles the lag in temp sensing/heating.
To damp the heat/sensing swings (and inherent lag) I've added extra insulation to the hotend and tip.