Thanks! I will replace all couplers with the correct type. I figured they would need to be the type that have the nubs for a pipe wrench to grab.

When we took deliveries the joints only had a "coupler" on one end. I wonder why they only thought it was important to protect one end. Probably something about storage or handling?

To be honest, I never understood that either. One end has a thread protector, the other... Ah hell, it'll be fine!

Does that mean these pipes are new and I took the wrong ones? I brought home 5 pipes and all of them have that thread protector on one end.

Those look new to me.

Coupler on one end, 21 feet long would indicate a new joint of pipe.

My guess is that the coupler is not a protector but rather something used by the factory to load the pipe, unscrew & disconnect, next. I would think that a protector would be a plastic cap.

Don't know why but every full stick has a metal thread protector on it. FWIW, in my world where there are no inspections, I have the thread protectors as couplings. But if you have inspections and use them, it probably won't pass.

I'm not sure why a coupler is not permitted, but a Tee is allowed.

Regardless, check your local code and use what is permitted in your area. I have lots of couplings on my NG lines.

I never looked at them closely, but at first glance the coupler/protectors looked like plain old couplers. Of course it’s been a few years since I was hauling full joints of pipe around.

You can have couplings. It's just that those things on the end of the pipe don't qualify as couplings by code in some areas. I never understood why they aren't acceptable but when I did work in certain counties with code enforcement, I had to go buy couplings rather than use the ones on the end of the pipe.

Gettin old sucks... but they have viagra to fix that. :D

Here's what a coupling is supposed to look like
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602202141.jpg

You might check with some local companies that do gas line installation. Things could be different in your area. I saw a coupling from Granger that looked like what some around here consider to be thread protectors. Don't know, maybe there's a wall thickness difference or something?

And between the threads and the coupler CabMan has shown goes gasfitter's tape which looks like plumbers tape but it is different and must be the correct stuff. Or hemp with grease.

In NZ we are NOT allowed to do our own gasfitting. Recently a gas man didn't check his work with the pressure tester and the leak measure machine, and the house blew up. This is it here :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602213823.jpg

Tapered pipe thread seals by interference. Pipe dope is a lubricant.
Pipe fittings should thread on about three revolutions by hand before starting to tighten.

For gas I still prefer lead seal. It is still available and never fully dries and hardens. Pro dope or what ever they would call the white stuff is OK. Does a decent job but does harden and is tough to remove if you are re-using some fittings or nipples.

If you use Teflon tape, make sure you use yellow.

Don't use teflon or dope on flared fittings.

Pressure in residential systems downstream of the gas line is typically around 7-14" wc. Around .5 psi. Make sure you have enough pipe size to handle the appliances BTU rating. I have some charts around here somewhere.

The only appliance that I am adding is replacing the standard water heater with a tankless. When I had an estimate for a new furnace, they told me that I should increase to 1" pipe diameter from the current 3/4" do to the fact that the tankless will cause a surge in demand.

A gas leak and no fire?

Propane leak from a couple of weeks ago in Okc. Girl killed and 3 severely injured.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602289290.jpg

AND a fire engine truck on hand.