Can you tell if this is Gas Pipe (Natural Gas)
 

My company just closed a plant and we have a giant pile of stuff that we are getting rid of. I am a natural scrounge and so I want to take this pipe if it is for natural gas.

See photos below. The pipe looks to be black Iron, is 1" x 20' and there are about 10 of them. Since I am going to be moving my Heater/AC unit to my attic, I will be running gas lines. I'm am also putting in a tankless water heater. I'm not positive but I think my existing gas line is 3/4" so if this will work, I will run new line all the way from the meter to devices.

I believe this to be gas pipe as we had a large dry roaster that we removed from the building. The markings are just codes and nothing that says "Gas". The pipe is about 5 years old.

Lot of redundant photos but difficult to photo the markings on the pipe:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602005162.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602005182.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602005202.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602005218.jpg

Have you considered typing ASTM A53 into Google?

Good idea.

Google:
ASTM A53 pipe (also referred to as ASME SA53 pipe) is intended for mechanical and pressure applications and is also acceptable for ordinary uses in steam, water, gas and air lines. It is suitable for welding and for forming operations involving coiling, bending, and flanging, subject to certain qualifications.

I will take a closer look and get the full codes off the pipe but it looks like this can be used for gas. I will check with our maintenance mgr to confirm what this was used for but he's out for a week and I was getting anxious. I could see his guys taking it to recycle for $5 bucks.

The black stuff that is ASTM 53 is seamless black steel pipe. It is exactly what you want for gas pipe.

Perfect! It's $26 for a 10' pipe at Home Depot. This is free and in longer sections which is much better for me.

Thanks all!

As far as I know, at least here, home gas pipes are low pressure anyway, typically lower pressure then water. So steel pipe in any case will be good for gas, the difference is in the fittings used to install it..

Maybe different in the US, but i doubt it

The US pipe ratings are for Steam Pressure at Saturated Steam Temperature. 40 pound pipe was designed for 40 psig steam. These days, the dimensions are important, since that is now what defines "Schedule 40" pipe, no matter the material. And the "size" is the nominal inside diameter.

1" O.D. = 3/4" pipe.

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/wp...-schedules.png

Pretty sure that is the inside diameter as the pipe looks thick. I'll check tonight when I load it up. It looks to me like 1 1/4" for the outer diameter.

My main concern was can this be used for natural gas since I know they use black pipe vs galvanized. I just want to confirm before I screw my house up. Most likely, this will sit on the side of my garage for many months before I tackle this project.

We run gas in A53 - no problem. It could be a bit of work if you are manually threading it.
If they are full lengths they should be 21'.

They are full length. I was guessing at the 20' but definitely in that range. They are already threaded as these were used at our plant. I'm going to run parallel to my existing gas line and get everything located to where my new equipment will be. My neighbor is a plumber and will pressure test for me. Once I'm ready, I will hook up to my meter.

This is a down-the-road project but since I can get this pipe for zero cost, I will take advantage now. I also brought home 12' lengths of duct work (I think 16" diameter) which I am going to use for return vents. All of these freebies will motivate me to get busy.

I previously got an estimate for a new heater/ac and move to my attic and the estimate was outrageous at $29k. This is an under $10k job and will be even lower if I can get some of the pre-work done myself. My current AC closet is needed to add a small powder room bathroom (it's 6'x'6) and the current small bathroom is 3x4 - what were they thinking in 1949?

Free is free, but have you priced flex gas pipe (CSST)? It’s easy and quick to install.

No offense, but if you don’t know what gas piping looks like maybe you should leave it to a certified and licensed professional. A gas leak is no joke, and I’ve seen too many “home owner specials” in my time. If an accident were to happen, your insurance company might object. Not trying to stir the pot, just looking out for you. My hygienist had a house that is now a crater that also totaled 5 other houses next to theirs. Luckily, nobody was killed, but they were making mortgage payments for years on that hole in the ground until the insurance company finally settled by paying off the balance of the loan only and walking away. Husband nearly charged with insurance fraud.

A joint of pipe is 21 feet. Once you manually cut threads on a 1” pipe you may reconsider DYI.

Around here, once the gas is past the meter and inside the gas pipes going to the appliances, it's about 0.11 PSI. About the same pressure as someone breathing out cigarette smoke.

Yep, that just makes sense.. can't see any reason to want high pressure inside the house past the meter..

.030 bar here (1.030 absolute pressure)

Using my feet/shoe, the pipes measured 21.5'. They are already threaded. I would not use without doing a proper pressure test. Everything I do whether DIY or professional will be to code and I have access to experts to help me. For the record (since mentioned) we have very low gas pressure here. I believe it is 60 psi before the meter and then reduced to 1-2psi. I know that you can plug it with a finger and nearly no resistance - I confirmed that when I installed a new water heater recently.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602092503.jpg

Awe suck it up buttercup! I've done it hundreds of times. Still have the die set, threader and pipe vise out in the barn. Honestly though, 1" was not my favorite to thread.

Vern,

NOTE: Those "couplers" on the end of the pipe are typically considered thread protectors and are not suitable by code for use as a coupler. If you have inspections you might keep that in mind.

That is normal pressure. You test at 15 lbs. for 30 minutes. No need to go higher as you may blow out some thread sealant.