What kind of conduit for outdoor electrical work

[Tidybuoy]

I have noticed that in my plant (large food manufacturing plant), the electrical conduit to various machines varies. In some cases it ls simple conduit that you see all the time in home electrical and in other cases it is heavy metal piping (similar to water pipes) but is running electrical. I'm wondering if the heavy pipe is just for strength in an area that sees forklift traffic and could stand up to being bumped into or is the some code that controls this.

I'm asking because we just closed down a plant and I have an opportunity to pick up pipe that I could use in my backyard to add some outlets along the back fence for yard lighting. It seems like overkill but it's very high quality, galvanized, 1/2" x 10' pipe.

Any thoughts from the experts here?

[3rd_gear_Ted]

PVC is a lot lighter than GRC. (Galvanized Rigid Conduit)
You need pipe cutting and pipe threading tools for GRC
PVC needs glue and a hack saw

[Pazuzu]

Rigid conduit is heavy, expensive, and requires special tools.
Rigid cannot be bent, you need to buy elbows and such.
Rigid requires heavier straps to mount, bigger holes cut for access, etc.
It is outdoor rated, unlike thin wall conduit.

But, if it's free, maybe it's worth it. Me? I'd rather run 1000 feet of PVC than 2 feet of rigid. PVC is cheap, light, can be modified on the fly with simple hand tools, can be stressed into place, and is outdoor compliant.

[RWebb]

I am allowed to, and have used, both types above gnd - can't recall what I did for buried runs

be sure your local yokels have not modified the NEC, then use whatever is allowed for the voltage in the run

[Tidybuoy]

I made an executive decision...I have a private alley/yard behind my house. I'm going to run this pipe along the back side of my fence which will keep the inside of my yard looking nice. The heavy pipe will guard against any vandalism, although that is unlikely. Then I can just pop thru the fence where I need an outlet (a couple of spots). It will also be much easier to install as my yard side is full of bushes.

I will run a straight shot along the back of the fence for about 50', then elbow up to where the junction box will be on the other side. This will be easy and clean looking. My first photo shows the source of the power which is galvanized conduit that is underground and about 60 years old. There is a threaded joint a few feet back and I will start there and replace the rusty section that you see in the photo. That part was running inside of a brick wall that has now been knocked down and replaced. (Did I mention my arms are sore?)

[Bill Douglas]

The plastic stuff goes around corners and is SO much easier to handle. And a few more fun things...

Different reg's for different countries, but the same concepts apply.

I ran heavy duty wiring out to my shed so I could use the plasma cutter and air compressor at the same time. Plus the welder likes lots of amps.

Plastic conduit is UV rated so it's fine for outside. But where it can be seen/stood on/driven on it needs to be 600mm under the ground.

Also use "cable glide" silicon to make feeding the wire cable through the conduit easier. Makes it a lot easier LOL

[Pazuzu]

When you get to the last 2 or 3 feet before a box, don't bother trying to make a rigid line that will fit, convert to liquid-tite flex line which will thread on the last piece of rigid, then give you lots of freedom to manouver to the box.

Also, it's conduit.

Tube holds structures up
Pipe carries poop around
Conduit keeps electrons in check

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by Pazuzu

Also, it's conduit.

Tube holds structures up
Pipe carries poop around
Conduit keeps electrons in check

LOL!
I love it. Precise and to the point.

[Cajundaddy]

PVC for the win unless required to use something else. It is low cost, easy to work with lasts forever almost. A significant percentage of my income has been replacing rusted out rigid conduit.

[dad911]

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

..... My first photo shows the source of the power which is galvanized conduit that is underground and about 60 years old. ......

I had some metal conduit in florida, running through an interior slab, 30 years old, totally rusted through. As in no more ground. GFI would not work, and so rust I couldn't pull a new ground through it. I'd evaluate that feed and seriously consider replacing/bypassing it.

1/2" pvc is about $2.25 for 10' Maybe the free pipe isn't worth it.

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

...... add some outlets along the back fence for yard lighting. ....

Low voltage LED or solar.....

Nice Fence. Other side painted baby-poo yellow?

[Tidybuoy]

Originally Posted by dad911

Low voltage LED or solar.....

Nice Fence. Other side painted baby-poo yellow?

LED. I can't use solar in my yard due to too many trees causing shade.

I'm going to replace the section from the house to where it is coming out of the ground with new pvc.

The baby-poo yellow is just faded redwood as I built that fence about 15 years ago. I need to clean it and re-seal. It's held up very well. Below is how it should look (a fence I built about a year ago)

[mattdavis11]

I'm digging the outhouse, but not sure I would put bench seating that close to it.

[dad911]

Baby poo was in reference to an old thread and a dispute with a neighbor, not aimed at you. OddJobUno?? as I recall.

[Tidybuoy]

It does indeed look like baby poo. Interesting, the other side is still brown and both sides were originally sealed with Penofin. I think that the backyard side has stayed brown because I hose it off periodically. I bet the back side would change color if it got hosed down.

This weekend project will be to complete the electrical and cleanup the alley.

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

I'm digging the outhouse

Yeah, my storage shed does look a bit like an outhouse and I must admit, I've pee'd near it a few times

[Zeke]

EMT is also permissible and all conduit can be joined with any other exterior rated using the correct hardware. With EMT it's water tight to start with and there are many variety of adapters.