Thank you so much. I'll often have the same problem when I start to clean or organize, I'll start going through everything and time gets away from me.

I do want to really step up my game. The missus wants me to make some built-ins in this house that are going to be much more like furniture than what I've made in the past. I'd love to be able to do fine woodworking. I'm not sure that I'm worthy of your confidence. If you send me Riffler files, I'll do my best to ensure that I use them when appropriate.

thanks again for everything.

This is interesting and reitterates something that I saw in an article online a month or two ago.

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I had no idea this sort of thing existed (which really isn't saying much). Apparently, it's for planing curved surfaces. Looks like it would do concave or convex. Pretty cool.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1617828488.jpg

Speaking of that... maybe its your chance to try one?

I hope you can use this lil' convex sole plane. I gathered up a brand new Stanley #49 bit gauge. Who the heck uses a brace without having a bit gauge as back up in case you decided to stop half way and drill move then one hole. We can't have that now, can we? Incoming. Will run to post office in the next couple days. BTW, Who the heck uses a Yankee screwdriver? You can tell me how one works. Its brand new, so there's no excuse for you now.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1617996439.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1617996439.JPG

I've got 4 Yankee SD's. Since I deal with a lot of flat head, and oval head slotted screws, I'm happy to have them on hand and working well. The tiny one is not really a Yankee and it drills pilot holes. There are better tools for that.

Tiny one, you mean the egg beater? The Yankee is in the first photo with the dark red handle.

No, it's push in pilot hole drill. At least it came with only a few straight 2-flute bits. The bits look more like reamers and they are not tapered which would be better for wood screws.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_SY355_.jpg

Brad pusher?

That's super cool! Thanks tons for everything. I can't wait to put the stuff that you've sent / are sending to use, and I will use it all too! I can't thank you enough. I'll certainly provide updates when I start building things.

It could be used to make holes for brads. But as I said, the bits are straight fluted with just 2 flutes. So it doesn't wind out the shavings like a twist bit. The points are chiseled.

What, wait! This is a tool you've never seen? ;):D

Interesting, I used to have a few straight fluted drill bits, that I think came from my grandfather through my dad. I have/had no idea what they'd have been used for, but this is what Grainger has to say about them.

I, unfortunately, haven't really gotten to start any woodworking yet, but the missus still has plans, so it's going to happen.

I saw this today.

https://texaswoodworkingfestival.com/

That sounds like a fun Saturday.

I am going to get you in the next wood working, furniture and machine fair in Vegas. Its trades only and happens every couple years and the biggest in the world. We just came back from that a few weeks ago. Vegas was hot but the show, not so much. Due to CV19, half the vendor didn't show.

I would really appreciate some experienced woodworking advice. The pic shows the top of a staircase with a handrail I salvaged from the demo of a commercial building. I’d like to install some kind of terminal piece on the unfinished ends (top and bottom) of this handrail.

Any suggestions?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628424961.jpg

Cut the ends so they are verticel then route and sand the ends to give a smooth transition to the rail; stain and wax/poly to match

Thanks Ben. Yes, that was my original intent.

Problem is the handrail is too short. To be correct, the rail should extend all the way up to the vertical door trim. The rail is a hair shy of 1-1/2” thick, meaning I could somehow cut a 2X whatever and fasten (using dowels?) it to the rail somehow.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628430011.jpg

The problem with using a 2x whatever is that it's going to be tough to get a decent look with respect to similar grain.

I'm far from expert. I assume you could find some of the right kind of wood and fashion an end that matches. I don't know if that's going to be white oak or something else. I'm not familiar enough with wood.

That’s a good point about matching, Steve.

My tentative solution is to not try to match but rather to paint/opaque stain the added piece black/brown or whatever on both ends of the rail. That may not look too bad. I think the rail is red oak.

I’m also thinking I could use some kind of steel backing plate to firm up the joint.

I think i’m gonna start looking around for 1-1/2” thick solid oak slab or 2 X 12.

I'm sure there are some folks here that could match the stain and get a reasonable grain match, Greg and Look, and probably a few others. I'd never get an exact match and that would bug my wife and I. I think painting is a good option other than that paint will probably wear/scratch, but at least you should be able to touch it up.

I think you could use glue and some sort of joint and be fine without a metal backing plate. I understand that glue should be as strong or stronger than the wood. Incorporate a joint of some sort and you should be good.

You could probably pick up red oak 1x at HD.

It’s a pretty simple profile...making an addition would not be that hard for a cabinet shop. Transfer the profile onto graph paper and take detailed pics and start visiting shops. Glue and dowels or screwed inside a pocket would be plenty strong.
Here is something for an idea..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628449305.png

Nothing fancy is needed to cap the ends of that rail. You just need a rectangular block for each end - round off all the sides. Easiest means of attaching it would be dowels probably. Most difficult part will be finishing it so that it matches the existing rail. From the pics - it looks like the rail is oak? If you were a neighbor I could have something over to your house in 15 -30 minutes.