Post-freeze residential plumbing repair - recommendations

[masraum]

Gents, we went to our property today, and found that the pipe between the pump and the tank had burst (wish I'd had 2 work lights in there!). The repair looks pretty simple (it's PVC after all) but I want to make the repair in the best way (without a full rebuild).

I'm not sure if there's a reason for the middle to be higher than the rest. It's probably because that was simplest, but I suspect it's also possible that there's some other reason (like traps in pipes).

Also, any recommendations on a better way to do it than just rebuilding it to be similar to how it is now?

I think I'd need to cut the pipe on the vertical just before it goes into the elbow which would put the pipe a bit lower than it is now, but that would be easy to rectify with a slightly longer piece between the two 135º elbows.

Or, is there a better way? Should I take this opportunity to install some Pex and if so, how much or does that make any sense in a setup like this without replacing everything.

And any recommendations for a gauge to replace the one in place that clearly isn't working?

Water flow is left to right with the portion in the red circle being the split/damaged pipe.




I was confused about the gray PVC going into the metal T-junction with the faucet, but then I noticed in one of the photos that it looks like there's teflon tape around the PVC, so there must be internal threads in the junction that the PVC is screwed into. I was surprised, didn't expect for there to be internal and external threads.

[Baz]

Hi Steve....

I can't see where your line is split in the photos. Can you elaborate? Thanks!

[juanbenae]

dam! you might have to hire a mexican being in texas and all.

[john70t]

DIdn't know PVC was rated for fresh pressurized supply side. There's a reason not to use it for air compressors as well. I would replace it all with cast iron or copper ground-rated and buried deep all the way to the well. Insulate with an open box of dense foam on top with drainage under to prevent future freezing issues. Don't want to be drinking that stuff. Make an investment.

[Baz]

OK - I re-read it and sounds like you just need to cut the pipe and use new fittings and a short section of PVC pipe the same diameter as what you have. Looks like 1" or 1 1/4". Look on any of the fittings and it should be there in very small lettering.

If the split is far enough away from the elbow so you can cut out the split and still get a coupling on after the elbow part....and you can do the same on the other side of the split....then you will only need two couplings and a short section of pipe.

Be nice to replace the entire section from the tee to the elbow. Then you just get a female adapter to screw onto the external threads on the tee.....section of pipe to elbow.....elbow....pipe....and then coupling. Hopefully there's enough play in the vertical pipe so you can move it back and forth to get the pipe glued in. Meaning....do everything except the elbow to pump and then do it last.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Baz

Hi Steve....

I can't see where your line is split in the photos. Can you elaborate? Thanks!

I'm pretty sure that the elbow at the far end is fine. It's just the straight section coming out of the elbow and then through at least one of the two 135º*elbows if not both of them.

[Baz]

OK, then cut the pipe after the elbow leaving enough pipe for a new coupling - hopefully at least 2".

Then take everything off going up into the tee.

Replace with a female adapter and (2) 45's to get the pipe to the right level.

[Baz]

Those are called 45's. Not 135's.

[Baz]

Is that 1" or 1 1/4" pipe, Steve?

You'd want to get schedule 40.

Have you worked with PVC pipe before?

[masraum]

My current thinking is to replace the portions in red.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Baz

OK, then cut the pipe after the elbow leaving enough pipe for a new coupling - hopefully at least 2".

Then take everything off going up into the tee.

Replace with a female adapter and (2) 45's to get the pipe to the right level.

Those are called 45's. Not 135's.

Is that 1" or 1 1/4" pipe, Steve?

You'd want to get schedule 40.

Have you worked with PVC pipe before?

The horizontal pipe coming from the elbow is also split. I'm afraid that I'd need to cut the very top of the vertical portion just below the elbow, then install a new elbow, new straight portion and the 45s and then the gray pipe that screws into the metal T with the faucet.

Thanks, 45, not 135.

It's just over 1 1/4" OD, so I believe that means that it's 1" sched 40.

schedule 40, thanks.

I've done some pvc before, mostly under sinks, and for the A/C drain pan pipe. I've worked with this stuff before.

[Baz]

Sounds good except the part about the gray part.

I don't know what that is.

Might be easier to just get a 1 1/4" female adapter and screw it 'over' the external threads on that tee....and be done with it.

[Baz]

Also......if you are replacing your elbow you could cut far enough below it to use a coupling first...then enough pipe before the new elbow, to get the elevation high enough to eliminate the need for those (2) 45's.

[Alan A]

I think you need the green glue not the purple for the grey to white joint.
If I were a plumber - or less lazy, as it’s downstairs - I’d be able to tell you the name of it.
Had to use it to hook pvc to sched 40 for the in ground drain behind the retaining wall at the back.

[Alan A]

Also the hose bib. Is that a high point for a bleed (is this hot water for heat) or a genuine bib? If it’s a bleed you might want to keep the bends.

[herr_oberst]

Pipe is measured as ID not OD. You most likely have 1" PVC sched 40

Start by cutting the white pvc. Keep it as long as you can. Hopefully, you can unscrew that grey pipe from that TEE junction. It kind of looks like a sprinkler riser that someone has repurposed, If you can unscrew it, EUREKA! Take that whole chunk into the hardware store and figure out how to replicate it. Use your pictures as illustrations and try and get the best plumbing associate in the store to help you sort it.

The only tricky part is that weird grey adapter. Not sure what I'm seeing there, it will have to come out of the TEE to get a sense of how to replace it. Once that fitting is sorted, you have an easy fix.

A hint is to get some of those cutters that look like pliers.

Good luck.

[unclebilly]

Why not cut it 1” from the 90 in the horizontal section and use a coupling? This way you don’t have to screw with the vertical height.

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by unclebilly

Why not cut it 1” from the 90 in the horizontal section and use a coupling? This way you don’t have to screw with the vertical height.

Or just cut it at the horizontal before the 45, pop in a coupling and build the 45's. But I see the wisdom in cutting the vertical at the elbow and just eliminating the 45's.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Alan A

Also the hose bib. Is that a high point for a bleed (is this hot water for heat) or a genuine bib? If it’s a bleed you might want to keep the bends.

It's not hot water, just water straight out of the ground.

It may be a bleed, I'm not sure. The T has 1 leg from the well, then a leg to the pressure tank, then the third leg goes to the house. The T and the pressure tank is at the highest point in this section.

Based on the video, it sounds like it's a drain.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Alan A

I think you need the green glue not the purple for the grey to white joint.
If I were a plumber - or less lazy, as it’s downstairs - I’d be able to tell you the name of it.
Had to use it to hook pvc to sched 40 for the in ground drain behind the retaining wall at the back.

Right, there was some glue that looked green on the pipe, especially at the gray joints.