Best broken underground PVC pipe fix?

[masraum]

What's the best way to fix this? This morning, the missus went out with the grandsons and came back a min later "there's a puddle outside" which is bad news since we are in a drought.



This is what I hate about PVC. If you have to cut out a broken piece, you're then left with something too short or otherwise off for a straight forward fix. I'm hoping someone can tell me the magic secret.

The exposed 3/4" between the T and the 45º is .9". So that might be enough to put a male/female coupling then connect a 45 to the end of that, but then what to do at the other end of the 45º? If I use a regular female/female coupling, how do I get everything back together without bending/breaking more sheiße? In the past, I've used screw together couplings that enable a direct fit. And if there's a direct break in the future, hopefully, just unscrew one end. But I have to think that's not the "best/right" way to fix it.

[Tobra]

Cut that off flush with the cracked piece and you will have plenty to work with

[Scott Douglas]

My brother has something similar going on at his place only his break is under concrete.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

My brother has something similar going on at his place only his break is under concrete.

Yikes! Yeah, from that point of view, I'm pretty lucky.

[Tobra]

it could be worse, no jackhammering involved.

[Scott Douglas]

I was only trying to help you see the brighter side of things. Mud you can dig in, concrete, eh, not so much.

[stevej37]

It almost looks like the T-fitting has a reducing bushing in it for the pvc pipe?
If it is...then saw it off at and turn that bushing out. Replace with a new bushing and cement in the rest.

[masraum]

Thanks guys. Now what tetris combination do I need to do the fix?

If I use a straight 3/4-3/4 coupling, my PVC will be too far away to then use a 45º elbow.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by stevej37

It almost looks like the T-fitting has a reducing bushing in it for the pvc pipe?
If it is...then saw it off at and turn that bushing out. Replace with a new bushing and cement in the rest.

Yes, there is a reducing bushing. I think the other 2 legs of the T are 1" and that is a 3/4". How would I "turn that bushing out" while the T is in the hole?

[stevej37]

Yeah...thinking more about that, the bushing is prob glued in, instead of threaded.
My idea of unthreading it prob won't work.

If there isn't enough room to attach a new fitting to the 3/4...how bad would it be to replace the whole T-fitting?


(If it could be turned out...it would have the nut edges)

[3rd_gear_Ted]

12" either side of all that stuff to have the pipe flex needed to re-assemble it all with correct tension on the connections.

[Cooper911SC]

Another option

[dad911]

Edit, beat me to it.

[MBAtarga]

I'm disappointed no one has offered the ultimate solution yet!

[flatbutt]

There's always the Flatty fix. Tho I imagine It'd be higher than the amount shown

[Tobra]

Cooper, where has that stuff been all my life

[Baz]

1. cut off the damaged 45 fitting as close as possible to the fitting on both ends
2. this should leave to the right side the .9" you mentioned as a 3/4" stub out
3. then trench backwards along the left side pipe (as shown in the pic) so the pipe can be moved to each side a few inches.....go back at least 12-18"
4. then cut that pipe about 12" back from where the damaged 45 was
5. with a new 3/4" coupling - PVC glue on a new section of 3/4" pipe - use thin wall - not schedule 40 - a bit longer than what you removed - 15" probably ideal
6. then glue a new 3/4" 45 onto the stub out and then let it sit for at least an hour to set up good
7. move the new piece of 3/4" pipe over and above the new 45 - and make a mark on the pipe where to cut in order to properly fit into the 45. It's OK if it's a hair too long as the added pressure will help hold it in better. Just not too much - a very fine line here
8. then cut where marked, glue it in, then let it sit for a 1/2 hour - then test

When you do the last connection you will have to bend the left side pipe a little to get it in the new 45 - lifting the pipe and connection up a bit always helps when you do this.

Good luck!

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Cooper911SC

Another option

This is another good option if you can find this product. Already pre-glued to the fittings which is good. Because gluing flex pipe and PVC fittings together can be a little tricky. Certain glues work better than others.

If you go this route I recommend gluing one end into the stub and letting it sit for at least a 1/2 hour before doing anything else to make sure it welds up nicely - given you are working with such a short piece. The rest should be self-explanatory.

They are in stock at my HD:

3/4 in. x 18 in. PVC Slip Flexible Repair Coupling

$11.52 - that's not bad.....

[craigster59]

Originally Posted by Cooper911SC

Another option

I used this to repair a sprinkler line a few months ago. Worked like a charm!

[Cooper911SC]

Originally Posted by Tobra

Cooper, where has that stuff been all my life

Hahah! That’s exactly what I thought to myself when I first discovered these at HD and ACE a few years ago! 😎

It has made repairs and some installs in funky shaped planters a breeze!