Wood deck car trailer , any issues ?

[rfuerst911sc]

Hey guys I am considering buying a 7 ' x 16 ' wood deck car trailer . I previously owned an aluminum car trailer but sold it to feed Uncle Sam �� . Anyway I am not trying to compare the two . I just want to know what if any downsides there are with a steel frame wood deck trailer ?

I know it weighs more but not an issue I tow with a diesel dually . Car to be towed will mostly be my Boxster . Also will be used for general purpose . Steel can rust got it . Wood can rot got it . What else ? The price is stupid cheap so basically a no brainer but I tend to over analyze �� .

It is dual axle with 15" wheels/tires and a 2" coupler and no brakes . Previous trailer was 2 5/16 coupler with brakes . But I will be adding brakes so not an issue . Trailer has a VIN number and currently registered . Fire away guys

[cabmandone]

I pull 12,000 lb mini excavators on a wood deck. Don't see why it wouldn't work for a Boxster. Big thing for me would be plenty of D loops or stake pockets for strapping stuff down.

[rfuerst911sc]

Per the pics no D rings but those are easily added . But it has stake pockets and a short in height rail on both sides and the front . I don't think securing the load will be an issue but great feedback thank you .

[gregpark]

I've had both and prefer wood. Not as slick when wet

[Dantilla]

Finally replaced the wood deck on my flatbed after 20 years.
When it was relatively new, I brushed on some used motor oil on a 90 degree day when it soaked in like water.
It was slippery when wet for a bit, but then lasted longer than expected.
A friend once borrowed it for a small-town parade- turned it into a pirate ship. Easy- Just screw down wherever you like into the wood deck. Looked fabulous.

After 20 years of mostly sitting outside, it was a quick trip to the lumberyard for some 16 foot 2x6.
Removing the original deck made it easy to give the frame a fresh coat of paint before installing the new deck, which I stained on all four sides.
Should last longer than 20 years this time.

[Evans, Marv]

I have one built in '06 that I bought in '09. Same size as you describe. I gave it a light sanding and top coat of paint maybe ten years ago. It has a six foot tail gate I use as a ramp when I haul my car once in a while along with general stuff the rest of the time. The neighbors get more use out of it than I do. The deck is good except for one rear corner. If I replace the deck, I'll try to look for pressure treated wood. It has a load capacity of 7,200 lb. I think. It was a great buy for $900 at the time. I think the poor guy I bought it from had lost his job as a result of the recession.

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by gregpark

I've had both and prefer wood. Not as slick when wet

Funny you mention how slippery aluminum can be when wet . The first time I walked on mine when it was pouring I slipped/fell on my butt 🙁

[dad911]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

......
It is dual axle with 15" wheels/tires and a 2" coupler and no brakes . .....

Is the trailer rated for the weight?

I thought brakes are required for trailers rated over 3500#

Boxster about 3000# dry, you'll be towing about 6000# ?

[ckelly78z]

Last year, I was tired of borrowing a trailer every time I needed to haul something big, so I found an 18" 7'x18 car trailer with a 2' beaver tail, and dual 3500# axles. It has a HD steel frame, a wood deck, and a lockable storage box on the tongue for $1100....I couldn't afford NOT to buy it.

-I mounted HD "D" rings on each corner for tie downs,
-bought 4 6000# yellow winch straps/ratchets
-bought a 12000# pulley snatch block for dragging cars out of the mud/flat tires
-fabricated steel tail light protector surrounds
-mounted a (HF) Badlands 12000# winch inside the tongue box
-painted the entire wood surface with several quarts of used motor oil

The used motor oil will keep your deck from rotting, and about 1 gallon, a paint roller, and 1/2 hour will do the entire deck...it looks like you stained it also, not slippery either. I will do this twice a year from now on, WMO is free !

[rfuerst911sc]

Trailer is rated 7000 lbs. with two axles rated 3500 each . Brakes are not a requirement but definitely suggested . Trailer I am guessing weighs 1500 - 1800 lbs so towed weight with Boxster approx. 4500 - 4800 . Plenty of safety margin . Looking online there are trailers in this size with no brakes , brakes on one axle and some on both axles . With the weight of my tow vehicle if I add brakes to one axle I will be fine . A pair of brakes for one axle can be done for $100.00 .

[cabmandone]

Word of warning. The short side rails can be a PITA. It takes away any real chance of side loading. Everything has to go on from the back and be pushed forward. I'd personally rather have a flatbed with sides I can slip into the stake pockets.

I have a 7x10 I use for my UTV. I've had opportunities to use it for picking up machine attachments but I have to drop them or slide them in from the back and push them forward rather than just side load. I normally end up just using my 20' tilt deck because it's easier.

[cabmandone]

Also keep in mind if you're adding brakes that you'll probably have to upgrade the wiring on the trailer to supply power to the brakes. A trailer without brakes probably only has 16ga wire for the lights. I think you need 14 or 12 for the brakes but I'm not certain on that.

[gregpark]

Add the brakes! They've saved me from disaster more than once, from rear ending to going down a steep hill. When the trailer is empty set the controller light and save your tires
Edit: they'll save the brakes on the tow vehicle as well

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Also keep in mind if you're adding brakes that you'll probably have to upgrade the wiring on the trailer to supply power to the brakes. A trailer without brakes probably only has 16ga wire for the lights. I think you need 14 or 12 for the brakes but I'm not certain on that.

A valid point but I will rewire the trailer anyway , I do that on every trailer I buy . Doesn't cost that much and gives a good baseline . You had mentioned the short side rails , it is a valid point . But the trailer appears to be in good shape , custom wheels and good tires with a tongue mounted tool box for $1000.00 . I can overlook some short comings for that price . With some thrifty shopping I can add brakes , rewire , add a winch and be all in for 1500.00 or less .

[gregpark]

I bought this 12' car hauler new for $2500. Brakes, tool box, spare plus mount, beefy ramps,, welded on D rings and post wells all included. The guy even mounted the controller in my truck for me. My jeep and sports car's fit easily and backing up a 12' is easier than a 16' also takes up less parking space. It's made by Iron Panther made in Texas and I have no complaints on the quality. I looked at used trailers for cheaper but with new tires, brakes, bearings, etc. buying new and complete was a no brainer. Rated for 7,000 lb.s

[unclebilly]

I have a 16’ Terry flat deck that my dad bought new in 1992. Most of the deck has been replaced once and there is one board I didn’t replace then that could to to be changed out.

You can nail or screw wheel chocks onto it and remove them as needed.

The trailer has been all over North American and hauled all sorts of cars, lathes, thousands of pounds of shrimp when I was commercial fishing... it’s on its 3rd set of fenders and currently has about 200 fence posts on it.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

A valid point but I will rewire the trailer anyway , I do that on every trailer I buy . Doesn't cost that much and gives a good baseline . You had mentioned the short side rails , it is a valid point . But the trailer appears to be in good shape , custom wheels and good tires with a tongue mounted tool box for $1000.00 . I can overlook some short comings for that price . With some thrifty shopping I can add brakes , rewire , add a winch and be all in for 1500.00 or less .

At a grand I'd snag it too! That's a good deal on a utility trailer.

[nota]

I donot think you can buy a brake setup for 100

when I bought a cheap core rotted sailboat for the trailer it was on
just replacing the hitch ball clamping parts was $95 on the brake headed part

Disc Brakes
$170.68 - $811.82
Drum Brakes
$151.70 - $967.95

that is just the trailer head controller not the actual brake parts

from
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Brake_Actuator.aspx

[nota]

Originally Posted by dad911

Is the trailer rated for the weight?

I thought brakes are required for trailers rated over 3500#

Boxster about 3000# dry, you'll be towing about 6000# ?

state rules and every one is different
and new or older trailers are under rules of the date made ie grandfathered

[dad911]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Trailer is rated 7000 lbs. with two axles rated 3500 each . Brakes are not a requirement but definitely suggested . Trailer I am guessing weighs 1500 - 1800 lbs so towed weight with Boxster approx. 4500 - 4800 . Plenty of safety margin . Looking online there are trailers in this size with no brakes , brakes on one axle and some on both axles . With the weight of my tow vehicle if I add brakes to one axle I will be fine . A pair of brakes for one axle can be done for $100.00 .

Good, rated axles.

I like to do wheel bearings when I get a used trailer. I believe a battery is also needed for the breakaway to apply the brakes.

I've painted a few house decks with that textured deck paint. Might get a few more years out of the wood with that stuff.