Automatic Watches

pwd72s · 05:44 PM

Cruising youtube I've learned that many "entry level" ($500-$1,000) swiss watches share the same movement (made by a Swiss company known as ETA) as many watches with "status" names that sell for much more. Also learned that the swatch group owns many watch brands, including "status" names.

https://www.swatchgroup.com/en/brands-companies

Just found it interesting...and another bit of info on marketing.

Also learned that pretty much any Quartz watch is more accurate than even the finest certified chronometer watch. But I guess everybody already knew that.

So, what am I going to buy after this few hours of youtube watch videos? My old Hamilton Khaki King quartz is still ticking off the seconds well. I'm a cheap crusty old bastid...no desire for anything else.

masraum · 06:30 PM

Yes, many watches from relatively cheap to expensive use the same movement.

The difference, as I understand it, is that the high end brands will disassemble the movement and reassemble them while tuning them up. You can get a rebuilt 350 Chevy from a guy that tossed it together using plastiguage, and your can get a 350 Chevy that's been balanced and blueprint by a high end builder. They are both 350 Chevies, but they aren't going to run the same.

And yes, a quartz movement will likely run circles around an automatic movement. If you require precision then the quartz is for you. If you need close enough and you're willing to adjust it from time to time and you're going to enjoy and appreciate the movement (or you want to show off) then the automatic is for you. If you are happy with a Honda or Toyota, then an entry level automatic is fine. If you appreciate some aspect of fine engineering and craftsmanship then you may want to find one of the better bands.

masraum · 06-03-2021, 06:31 PM

I think it's actually possible to buy the parts to build a watch and put it together yourself. I think one of our members had a family business that makes watches.

Alan A · 06-03-2021, 06:57 PM

A Ferrari and a Honda both have an engine.
The Honda is arguably more reliable.
People don’t get on waitlists for a Honda.
Same idea...

otto_kretschmer · 06-03-2021, 06:57 PM

I have three nice watches

a doxa

and two Sinns

I'd only get a quartz watch is if I needed a throw away watch.

jyl · jyl's Garage

I wear one watch now. A battered old Seiko Diver from the 70s that has been riding my wrist for at least twenty years. It tells time, approximately. If I scrape it on an oil pan or bang it on a rock, I don’t care. I do admire nice watches and also had my Apple Watch fling, but I go back to Old Faithful.

Alan A · 06-03-2021, 07:06 PM

Thought that was my Doxa for a second. I daily wear a 5000

ShopCat · 06-03-2021, 07:07 PM

Many luxury brands have their own in house movements. Sub $1k automatic watch? Just buy a Seiko and call it a day, they are one of the few in that range that are vertically integrated. Their movements are in house, best by far in that price range.

I have a SKX007 and a True Pogue

WPOZZZ · 06-03-2021, 07:14 PM

Yes, lots of older automatic watches used ETA movements. However, times have changed and those ETA movements have gotten more expensive. Because of that, and that ETA is not selling movements or parts to outsiders anymore watchmakers have moved to Sellita and Ronda for their Swiss movements.

If you want to build your own watch, this company makes a good kit. https://diywatch.club/

HardDrive · 06-03-2021, 07:15 PM

I have an Omega Coaxial Aquaterra that I love. I also have an Orient Bambino Open Heart that I think is a great watch for a couple hundred bucks.

Automatic watches are art, not utilitarian items.

craigster59 · craigster59's Garage

I have a buttload of Seikos and some ETA watches. Does it really matter that they're constantly wound, like those gyroscopic watch boxes? I just wear as needed but I had one Seiko stop working.

Tishabet · 06-03-2021, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HardDrive

Automatic watches are art, not utilitarian items.

+1, why would anyone go quartz?

In my stable right now:
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M (literally on my wrist as I type this)
Hamilton Khaki Automatic
Hamilton Khaki King Automatic
Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart
Sinn 356 Flieger
Panerai Luminor Marina (on loan to my dad)

pwd72s · 08:40 PM

I found watches to be an interesting topic...the marketing part really was something. Also, not all ETA movements are the same...some amazingly accurate...around 3-4 seconds a day despite not being "certified chronometer"...and that certification is another long story in it's own right. Another thing I learned was that it depends on the watch brand...not all "in house" movements are superior to the better mass produced ones. Yes, some brands tune the movements, usually a time adjust, often engraving the rotor to reflect their brand, others just use the movements as they receive them.

Like I said, an interesting topic. Not all quartz watches are the same either...grand seiko uses top of the line circuity, jeweled movement in their quartz movement...probably the most accurate watch you could buy until the recent spring drive grand seiko.

Yep, a fascinating topic...one I haven't paid much attention to until lately. Personally, I prefer accuracy and ruggedness over brand recognition...not that those who go for brand recognition are wrong.

I was a babe in the woods when I bought my Hamilton...bought it mainly because I wanted quartz accuracy and I liked the easy to read military style dial. The time spent on youtube has been quite an education.

(edit) Why go quartz? Ask anybody who has used a sextant to cross an ocean. The accuracy of quartz was big news to sailors before sat nav came along...and even with sat nav, a smart sailor would know how to use a sextant and an accurate timepiece. In times of conflict, satellites can be turned off.

WPOZZZ · 06-03-2021, 09:02 PM

I love watches! I keep about a dozen on a winder at home, and another 2 dozen in the safe. I also keep about 2 dozen quartz watches running at home. Automatic, manual and quartz are in the mix, but I am looking for a couple electronic watches. The quartz are extremely accurate, especially my 2 Grand Seikos. IIRC, they are accurate up to 10 seconds a year. I have one manual King Seiko and after 50 years, it is still extremely accurate, probably within 5 seconds a day.

That said, some of my automatics are definitely works of art, such as my Breguet Type XX. I would say it is one of the most beautiful watches in the world. Automatic and manual watches are about the art and passion of horology, just like the art and passion of the air cooled Porsches.

rusnak · 06-03-2021, 10:40 PM

I think guys who enjoy working on their own equipment, build their own garages, and know how to tune up a 911 would prefer the mechanical genius of an automatic watch. But then again, there are some really crappy automatics. Tag Heuer comes to mind.

LEAKYSEALS951 · 06-04-2021, 02:39 AM

Step away from the youtube!!!!

I just got a Hamilton spirit of liberty and a Seiko. I go to sleep every night with Teddy Baldassere reviewing watches in the background. I am getting all my uncle's vintage watches restored.

Dangerous.

Geronimo '74 · 06-04-2021, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusnak

I think guys who enjoy working on their own equipment, build their own garages, and know how to tune up a 911 would prefer the mechanical genius of an automatic watch. But then again, there are some really crappy automatics. Tag Heuer comes to mind.

I had a cheap Seiko automatic.
My guessing of the time of day was more accurate than that POS.
I gave it away and felt relieved afterwards.

LEAKYSEALS951 · 04:17 AM

I was watching this the other day. I'm wondering if we were watching the same video. There will be a quiz later. (for some reason It embeds to start midway through the video-at about the swiss movements. My bad. If you want to see japanese movements, rewind it to the beginning)

ShopCat · 06-04-2021, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geronimo '74

I had a cheap Seiko automatic.
My guessing of the time of day was more accurate than that POS.
I gave it away and felt relieved afterwards.

Seiko is known for very good automatics at lower price points, how cheap was yours? Maybe it needed a service.

charlesbahn · charlesbahn's Garage

I repair, rebuild and build watches and clocks as a hobby. It is a fascinating subject.

Mostly I work with ETA and Valjoux movements and especially chronographs, although I find almost no one that owns one actually uses, or even knows how to use, the chronograph function. As has been noted, these are the base movements of many Breitling, Tudor, Rolex, and other high end watches.

This is a "pandemic project" watch I built- a Russian Poljot chronograph (previously posted)