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Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
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I thought it would be easy to by auto touch up aerosol paint online
No one seems to want to sell just a simple 11-12 oz can of single stage acrylic.
I just want to do the front bumper on the '96 Jag which a previous owner did and it's peeling due to crap prep work. Even a close match s OK. The code is 732/NDM Spindrift White (they ought to rename it "spendthrift white" as I'm trying to do this for under $25). If I can't find this I'll have to go to a 2-stage which is OK, but I grew up on SS acrylics and urethanes. I guess the reason is that most SS acrylics need a hardener added (but it's not always necessary if conditions are right as in nice and warm). I can get acrylic lacquer for a decent price in GM paint code 50/WA8624, but I'd need a sealer. Not sure which one. The GM code is very close and I can live with that since it's the bumper. |
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There are several companies that will mix paint to match just about any car, you won’t find them locally, you’ll have to order them online.
You’ll probably blow your $25 budget though, I think they’re a little pricey. I was able to find a local company that would do the same thing, so you might call around. You’re in a bigger metro area than I am. I started with a local paint store, Sherwin-Williams, that had a few locations that dealt with automotive paint and just told them what I was after and asked them for recommendations. People in the business usually know everybody else in similar businesses. Last edited by javadog; 09-05-2021 at 08:56 AM.. |
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Brew Master
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No Pittsburgh Paint automotive distributors around? They'll do color match in a spray can.
My only knock on duplicolor is the sh.tty nozzle they use. I just got done spraying some wheels for my son's Rav and was less than impressed with duplicolor. Another issue I had was once the can started getting low there was no spraying at even a slight angle. If it wasn't straight up and down it was gonna spit paint. If you've get any metallic in the paint that can cause issues.
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Nick Last edited by cabmandone; 09-05-2021 at 09:59 AM.. |
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Quote:
Edit: Some of that info is actually in small print as a footnote, but it will say something like, "This product requires top coat for maximum performance," or :"This product dries to a flat finish and requires a (CC) top coat." Quote:
![]() Last edited by Zeke; 09-05-2021 at 10:27 AM.. |
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Have you called them to ask if they can supply it in single stage?
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Brew Master
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I've never tried to ship paint but there's a place in Ft Wayne IN , Porter Paints (PPG) that would make spray cans. If it'll help I'll call them on Tuesday and see if they can do a match for that paint code.
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Nick Last edited by cabmandone; 09-05-2021 at 10:30 AM.. |
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I should point out that Dupli-Color is owned by Sherwin-Williams, which is why I started with Sherwin-Williams locally to find a source that would mix me a can of single stage paint.
I got what I wanted, full disclosure, it was for a Honda not for a Jag... ![]() |
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Registered
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Best bet is to go to the local auto body paint supply shop. Easy refund if they mix it wrong.
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1986 Bosch Icon Wipers coupe. |
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Brew Master
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Maybe try giving these folks a shout?
https://www.66autocolor.com/products/spray-max-2k-single-stage-aerosol-spray-paint?variant=37903618343112
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
White paint for BC is the cheapest color they sell. Nut up for some clear with hardener and put this behind you.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Brew Master
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Quote:
BTW, the base and clear are enamel with duplicolor. You spray a "base" and then top coat with their clear but you don't absolutely "need" to clear it. It's just that it has better protection. I just got done doing three coats (two light coats and one medium) of "base" and two of clear (One light, one medium) on some wheels for my son's Rav. It's "okay" stuff but I'm not overly impressed with the hardness of either the base or clear. It feels soft to the fingernail.
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Nick Last edited by cabmandone; 09-05-2021 at 12:02 PM.. |
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I guess I should mention that I'm a qualified auto painter having painted my first of many in 1968. I used Dupont Centari for 40 years until it could no longer be had anyway you tried. The last of the last was coming out of Mexico @ $40/gal when over the counter at body and paint supply was 120. (Now it's what? over $500/gal?) I tinted it myself.
All I'm trying to do here is save a little money and a bit of work. I have some hardener and some medium acrylic enamel solvent. Worst case, I buy a pint of something and mix it and then spray it. Currently I have well over a dozen guns from a 2 quart pressure pot, gravity, siphon (with different fluid nozzles and air caps for various viscosities), detail and air brush. In the collection is even one of the famous Binks Model 7's (a workhorse) and 3-4 throw aways that just keep going. Plus a Graco airless. No stranger to painting and shooting gel coat. These days I mostly shoot conversion varnish as well as shellac. I did refresh the hoods and top on the Jag last Fall including the rear bumper. I ran out of material just as I was laying down the gloss coat. The front bumper is a complicated piece with molded grills and it faces mostly about 45º downward. Not a fun piece to remove nor prepare. So, I wasn't unhappy that I let it go for the time being. But the time has come now that someone backed into me (and of course left no note). I'll give a couple of the posts some follow up. Thanks for now. I'll buy it in the morning. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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DuPont sold their paint lines to a company in 2013 for $5B. Axalta is a brand name I see, depending on the jobber, that I am pretty sure is related.
If you want single stage with hardener there has to be an economy line. You have the hardener, try a BASF/Glasurit jobber. They would have LIMCO which catches (verbal) crap all the time but is a very stout/not too expensive paint for less exotic stuff. I painted this last year with LIMCO. Maybe $400 per gallon. ![]()
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1981 911SC Targa Last edited by Bob Kontak; 09-05-2021 at 02:40 PM.. |
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Looks very good, Bob. Don't you love how SS paint lays down and flows? And you never have to worry about cutting through the CC when wet sanding and polishing. In fact, the Jag looked good enough to just drive it w/o any detailing.
Now I know full well that's not a good idea to not put some protectant on the paint. But after a little initial oxidation the paint really responds to compounds and you don't have to worry about any orange peel or sand scratch ghosting after you've just put down a mirror shine. I can buy 1 oz of material and once it's mixed to ratio, I'd say I'd have at least a 1/2 cup full in the gun. That's enough for one silly bumper. 6 coats at that. But, jeez, a 20 dollar rattle can and no gun clean up is really the way to go here. It's half of what your massive bumper is, if that. I need about as much paint as it would take to paint your mirrors. ![]() ![]() I painted the hood and front bumper of this a few years back when I could still find some SS paint down in San Diego County. The fenders are still factory and still SS at the time, '88. ![]() |
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Flat Six
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![]() Two-stage, but acrylic & color you're looking for; for a small job like the bumper I'd do it this way in a New York minute. Plus you'll have a little extra for when you need to touch up something else on the same car.
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If I carefully picked my way through the Valspar catalog I'd probably find something pretty damn close. They have 4 shades of 'white'. While not cheap, it's the best rattle can brand I've used.
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I recently got some single stage paint for the 993 (Porsche black, easy) for the lip of the front spoiler, which was getting a little ragged looking.
I got a rattle car of the color from The Auto Paint Depot on line. It was about $20. for one can. Matched perfectly. |
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^^^ Seems like I was on their site but I'll go back, thanks.
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