put the barrel in its ear............ that is how the pros perform the coup de grace.

And use something bigger than a 9mm. :)

jeez, he was more of a butcher than a farmer

He butchered it next...so maybe you are right. It didn't seem to bother him. It was just preparing food to him.

As a youngster, We almost always sold my steers/pigs...and we bought meat (when we could afford it). Raised them from babies and fed them from a bottle, then whatever I could grow in in the garden or scrounge...so they sort of seemed like pets.

I bought a Norino SKS when I was in college and they were going for $125. My eyes are not good enough to hunt with iron sights unless its almost point blank.

I might see if I can mount a red dot on it.

I've been shooting for a long time but hunting is new. I'm finally out of the rat race so I have time to experiment and see what works for me.

A few years ago I was looking for a 223 bolt and the gunshop I was in had a CZ 527 on the shelf. I looked it over and bought it on impulse. It was what I was looking for and I could afford it and i really like the CZ brand.

Otto,

I've shot more than a few hogs. On the handgun front use the .45 ACP and use Buffalo Bore 255gr bullets. It's a +P and you'll need to check for function and accuracy. Depending on which exact handgun it may be easily modified to to .45 Super which is a step up in power.

On the rifle front between the three there are variables you need to address. Are you going to stand hunt, use dogs, walk in a skirmish line, etc.? What are the optics on the bolt actions in terms of power, etc. A higher powered optic will work for stand hunting but it is less than optimal for anything close. Adding a red dot to your SKS has a couple of potential pitfalls; 1st is that we get older a lot of red dots show as some kind distortion (my near vision is in the 20/60-20/80 range while far vision is still 20/20 or better) which limits the choice of optics, the other problem in adding an optic to a SKS is finding good mount as most are not the most secure and you will loose accuracy.

Rifle power is not a factor for the 30-06 with anything in 150-175 grain hunting bullet is more than adequate. There a few premium 7.62X39 hunting rounds that give good results but the Russian 125 soft point (not hollow points) are cheaper and if accurate enough work well. The .223 can work but there limits, the two that have worked best are 77 grain Sierra TMK (if your rifle will shoot it) and the Hornady 60 grain V-max. Both expand well and have adequate penetration. The dedicated .223 loads from Barnes (solid copper) and Nosler (64 grain bonded) penetrate well but don't have the tissie disruption of the previous two, both of these projectiles work very well in 22-250 and faster rifles.

Last thing to consider is ammo transportation if you're flying there are limits on the weight of ammunition so you should consider drop shipping at your destination(s).

S/F, FOG

FOG,

Cool and thanks for the post.

I loaded up a box of Barnes TSX in 70 gr and for some reason it shoots higher than the 55 gr bullets. Its a mystery why it does this. I really, really need to spend more time at the range to figure which rifle and ammo combo works best. The CZ 527 has a 9 to 1 twist so it MAY shoot a heavy (70+ gr) bullet and stabilize it.

A side arm is just an insurance policy. I really don't expect to need it and I'm only going to get maybe three shots off before I need to need a tree to climb up or have a leg torn open. I can shoot the 45 with the 200 gr swc pretty well, or at least I use to. I haven't been bothering with pistols much in the last decade. There is +p data available for 45 acp. I can look into it and load 50 rounds and see how well I can shoot them and compare to my usual load.

I inherited a Smith-Corona 03 from my father and it was sporterized a long time ago. It was drilled and tapped for rings so I bought a used Weaver and mounts. I'm not sure on the power. I had to start somewhere with a scope so I just bought something cheap and tried it. The first time out to the range it shot a foot high at 100 yards so I took it home and shimmed the front mount about .016" with aluminum tape. I need to go to the range again and see if it shoots any better.

The CZ 527 weighs around 6 pounds and is pretty much sorted. Along with the Barnes TSX, I bought a box of Nosler 60 gr partition bullets.

I want an AR-15, tell me if that will work ???

FOG is always worth listening to when he sits up and starts talking guns. If he's gone after hogs and is willing to share, it's time to listen...

Sometimes a heavier bullet at lower velocity will shoot higher, at least at close range. There is a bit more recoil, lifting the barrel a little higher before the bullet releases. And the bullet spends more time in that barrel, that is rising faster in recoil. This is more pronounced in handguns, but I have seen it in rifles as well, especially with larger changes in bullet weight. Jumping from 55 to 70 grains is a significant percentage increase in weight.

I think you're in fine shape. Shoot what you know and what you are good with. The heavy bullet +P loads may shoot to a significantly different point of impact. It might be worth a try, just to see, but you might not have enough time to fiddle with this. Components are a bit tough to get these days as well, so if you don't have the stuff on hand right now, um, well...

What a classic! I'm envious. I had a between the wars Sedgly sporterized Springfield for all too short of a time. Griffen & Howe side mount and everything... Someone wanted it way, way more than I did, however, and made me that "offer I couldn't refuse". I learned a lesson there, however - that big wad of cash is long gone, and I've long forgotten what I spent it on. And the Sedgley is still gone...

One of the new CZ's is on my "short list". I've handled a few. Very nice rifles. I'm thinking a proper 9.3x62...

Jeff,

I really like CZ rifles and pistols. Its what made me buy it at that time a few years ago and i don't regret it. If I buy another deer rifle, I want a CZ in 6.5x55. But if the Smith-Corona works out I won't need it.

I was looking at a pic of the Sedgley Springfield 1903 and it looks like my 03. The bolt isn't original, or at least the handle is the same as the Sedgley. The stock looks original and maybe a little butchered. I think the barrel has been shortened but I'm not sure.

My father bought a stock and it looks like a project he never finished so I'm going to finish it for him when I get the time. The price is still on the butt, written in ink. $13.

When was the last time you saw a raw stock for $13 in a gun shop? I'm going to sand it smooth, bed it to the reciever and give it a coat of varnish and make it pretty. Maybe checker it, or maybe I'll make some diamonds out of 60 grit dry/wet sand paper and glue them on.

Otto,

The 70 gr TSX likes velocity. I have a not well articulated theory that roughly equates to quantum theory. Basically some bullets really begin to work well above some velocity threshold, while others stop working well once velocity threshold is exceeded. I like hard data when I can get it. The problem with hunting bullets is that people rely on gelatin tests that vary from field observable results. The problem with field results is accurately quantifying the results. Having said that if your CZ has the 16” barrel your expansion and tissue damage is significantly less than the 20”, the bullet (along with the Nosler 64gr bonded) shine in 22-250. With a 1-9” twist the stability of the 77gt TMK may work with one density altitude (low – high/hot) and then not stabilize in colder temps at sea level.

I like the 03-a3s, they are just so smooth. Recently picked one up that had been “sporterized” for really cheap. The drill and tap job was butchered and it gets worse though the NDI was sound so many dollars. The externals on most older rifles have lots of variations which result in accuracy issues. Basically you are introducing stress into the system.

What you want is as straight, parallel, perpendicular, and stress free as possible. You can solid shims out of SS shim stock or even aluminum cans (sides and bottom are different thickness) and take up the smaller differences by bedding the base with liquid steel. Both Brownells and Midway sell ring lapping kits ($20-30) that are easy to use. It is surprising the number of wandering zero and erratic accuracy problems that are solved by removing most the stress.

S/F, FOG

What I've heard from friends in Texas is the pigs have gone nocturnal so there is a good chance I won't see any of them if I go hunting there. So if I'm just going to go for a hike with a rifle slung on my back I may as well skip the sidearm and take the CZ.

I'm still in baby steps with precision shooting. I use paper plates as targets and if I can reliably hit the center flat part of the plate at 200 yards under hunting conditions, I'll call that good enough.

A pigs heart is in the lower chest so if I'm at 100 yards of less, aim behind the ear and if I'm between 100 and 200, aim for the heart in the lower chest. If I'm farther than 200, don't take the shot and move closer.

Oh, man... You struck a chord there... I'm a huge fan of the old Swede, that 6.5x55. When my oldest son was ready to hunt, a buddy just happened to have a M70 Featherweight so chambered that he happily donated to the cause at a very, very fair price. I've let a few '96 Mausers come and go over the years myself, and finally settled on a Ruger #1. I found it on Gunbroker years ago during a lull in the activity at work (and there was lots of downtime when we weren't traveling). It was about three hours away, as luck would have it, just east over our Cascade range. Told my boss I was "outa here", he asked where I was off to, and I told him I was off to buy a rifle and would be back tomorrow. "O.k., but I need to see it when it gets here" was all he said (a Marine Lieutenant in a past life...).

Our pair of Swedes:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1638589045.jpg

Favorite load is the 155 grain Lapua Mega over a stiff charge of Reloder 22 for about 2,400 fps. I bet that would make a dandy hog load. Probably too stiff for an M96, though. A modern CZ Mauser would have no trouble with it, though.

Otto,

The hogs are still there, just not as active. I've kept them in check on my property, for the most part. When I find evidence that they are coming back I bait them. The subject of what bait can get heated with more than a few people. I basically use deer corn in a hole with some yeast, molasses and occasionally jam or preserves then pour a gallon or two water before covering it up to ferment. Which portion of the recipe actually works and which just feels good I don't know. I try and place these 150-200 yards from a position that is downwind (along with the route to to the position) from the bait site. I also tie up a mesh laundry bag of PT or yard work clothes roughly up wind about 10-20 yards from the site in order to get hogs use to the human scent.

Having stated the above most folks are not thrilled with the idea of inviting hogs onto their property.

It appears you're ahead of the curve in looking up anatomical differences between deer and hogs and you have a sound strategy to utilize the knowledge.

It appears you reload. Check out The Nosler ; Shooters Pro Shop. They have a good deal on .224 69gr match bullets and .308 110gr varmint bullets for cheaper practice. Good idea on training, try printing out the centers from 25 yard pistol and place on the paper plates then keep track of your progress and what works/doesn't work under different circumstances.

Jeff,

The 6.55X55 will work fine on hogs. I'm not sure I'd choose them as a first choice if hunting in tight cover with dogs.

S/F, FOG