Cable/Internet TV Connection Questions
 

Hello all interested in various ways to get TV shows and streaming.
Here is my current setup.
I added an ethernet patch cable because getting Netflix, Amazon and Hulu didn't seem reliable. I think it is due to a not great Comcast wireless router and old Samsung TV. Things seem to be pretty stable now. I added a Roku module and I get Plex and HBO Max via wireless - that seems okay but not great.
Do I need the ethernet patch cable or will the TV get e.g. Netflix through the Comcast box? I was thinking Comcast doesn't want Netflix going in/out of their cable box.
Thanks for any comments. I know this is sort of a lame question. I just want to check before I start drilling for routing a long patch cable.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1639943949.jpg

Depends on distances involved and what your walls are made of.

WiFi should be fine for the wireless streaming, but a lot of factors come into play. You might want to look at a WiFi mesh system to get stronger WiFi than comcast provides. Amazon’s eero is good, netgear, tplink and others all have easy to setup WiFi mesh systems that would get you better WiFi than you currently have.

The tv will not get internet through the coax.

-if you feel your wireless is troublesome and it's easy to run a wire then i would.

Consider also just getting a roku with an Ethernet input and ditching the TVs apps altogether. The Tizen OS in the Samsung's is quite a bit clunkier than roku. And you'll save switching between the two.

If it's a PITA to run an Ethernet wire then you could try an Ethernet-over power line adapter. Sometimes they work great, sometimes average. Runs the internet over your home ac. "Might" be better than the wireless and is certainly convenient.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-powerline-ac1200-gigabit-ethernet-adapter-2-pack-white/4002029.p?skuId=4002029

Xfinity? If so, get rid of the patch cable and the Roku, the cable box can do apps which includes HBO. The Roku might still be needed for Plex...plug the patch cable into the Roku.

Thanks very much for the comments/info.

The TV is only 30 feet away without any walls but I think the wifi in the TV is not very good - 2012 might have been the first year of "smart" TV's. I may soon get a better TV but still I think having the ethernet patch cable feed will always be better and maybe faster. I can run the ethernet patch cable, not easy but doable.

I didn't know I could get a Roku with a RJ45 input. Do I need a hub so that the Roku and TV can be connected to the Ethernet right near the TV?

I looked at EERO but it will not support my current HP printer. You can buy printers that can be connected to the EERO network but the instructions seem daunting. Then I would have two wireless networks in the house. I looked at ethernet over power but the plugs are on different panels, not even going to the same panel so I don't think that will work.

My best option is to convert my jerry-rigged wire across the room to putting it through the wall and outside the house and then inside the attic and over to the wireless router wall.

We have had success using a MOCA ethernet/coax adapter for our ethernet connection. We get the bandwidth without running an ethernet cable. The one issue we had is I had bought coax filters with too large a bandwidth that was wreaking havoc with wifi. Our provider diagnosed the problem and installed filters with a narrow bandwidth. If you go this route I can get the specs on the coax filters.

Do you know what your Wi-Fi speed is near the tv?
You are correct a power line adapter won't work if the outlets come from different panels.
Roku ultra has Ethernet input.
If pazuzu is correct about apps on the cable box then obviously that would be the easiest.

Whenever possible wire is better than wireless for fixed-location devices, especially if you have a lot of portable devices that must use wireless.

Smart TVs are generally not a smart choice.

They’ll all run some proprietary OS which could limit choice of installable apps or leave you with an app lacking feature parity with the iOS/Android versions.

They are more expensive for no real benefit. The delta in price between a smart TV and it’s dumb sibling will get you a standalone device like RoKU or Apple TV.

If the TV goes tits up you have to redo everything on the replacement TV vs just plugging in your external streaming device.


WIFI is for convenience not performance. MoCA extenders are the way to go.

All residential cable providers use MoCA. MoCA runs ethernet over coax. Plenty of room in a coax pipe. It’ll support full gigabit.

Right now every live coax jack in your home can supply ethernet so go to amazon and get an Actiontek Moca adapter/ bridge.

While you can, don’t use garden variety $2.00 splitters. They max out at 1,000 mhz, spend $10 a splitter for 1,500 to 2,000 mhz.

158 mbps down, 43mbps up, 7mseconds latency
On my laptop standing by the TV.

I'm trying to absorb the ethernet over coax idea. I have one coax going to the TV location now and it is plugged into the Comcast cable box. Also, need to see about if the Comcast cable box will run the Netflix, Amazon, Hulu apps. Somehow that software is there on the box or I would have to load it.

Can I "split" the coax cable right near the TV and run one leg to the cable box and one leg to a Moca box and then have ethernet available right there? Then I have a way for my Smart TV to have wired ethernet plugged in with a hard wire (ethernet patch cord). Right or no? ??

Well that's plenty unless it's inconsistent. Try SM's moca idea! If the modem/router and the coax that runs to the cable box are near each other you're golden.

To try and understand. I can get a Moca box of some sort - it will have coax in and RJ45 ethernet out. Right?

I can make a new diagram if that helps. People here like diagrams. :-) I like them also.

I'm amazed at the first diagram....hth did you make that?

Power Point. Power Point is not very good for making diagrams. I like Visio and used it for years and years for work but now it is expensive. IMHO Visio is very good software for drawing 2D.

Actually looking at your diagram you can move your WIFI / Ethernet router to any live coax drop in the house so if there is one at the TV move the router there and run ethernet straight to TV.

Most residential installers don't put the router in the best place for performance, they put it in the easiest most convenient place for them.

Around here 90% of the time they stick them inside the metal utility box in the laundry room. You could literally not pick a worse spot.

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-MoCA-Network-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=sxin_13_ac_d_bv?ac_md=6-3-QWJvdmUgJDEyNQ%3D%3D-ac_d_bv_bv_bv&cv_ct_cx=moca%2Badapter&keywords=moc a%2Badapter&pd_rd_i=B088KV2YYL&pd_rd_r=5837db25-01ce-4fc8-94cb-7e4cac971678&pd_rd_w=UjtCO&pd_rd_wg=xrq84&pf_rd_p= 148e9898-1bed-4a70-9840-46f32e4185bd&pf_rd_r=QYYV6GRKZMK4PH98JFVP&qid=1639 959642&sprefix=moca%2Caps%2C110&sr=1-4-f4ff053e-b1e8-4d31-8f95-56d755c862ba&th=1

And yes, splitter at TV, one leg to cable box, one to MoCA extender.

Thanks... I'm learning. Good point moving the Comcast gateway to right near the TV. This means I can "drive" the TV directly with an ethernet cable as a second input. However, moving the Comcast gateway to the TV makes it maybe worse wifi strength at the other end of the house where my wife's laptop and printer are. So if the MoCA single box would work that might be the easiest solution. I think I should update my diagram for y'all.

While I work on the new diagram.... how would I test the speed of the coax outlet where I might be planning to hook all this stuff up?

hook your router up and use an ethernet to your laptop. Make sure the laptop is not on wifi but on the hard line connection. If a mac, just turn wifi off up on the top bar. If PC then ask someone else.


Go to speedtest.net and check your speed.

You can then unhook and go wifi again and check the wifi speed. It's interesting to note the difference

You don't need to unless the home has an old questionable coax network.

Try to keep the number of splits on that leg to 1 or as low as you can.

Because WIFI does not have dedicated backhaul like wired ethernet does. It's always slower than wired.

Well, modern mesh networks will have it. If the gear is labeled Tri Band it has backhaul which is a 3rd channel only accessible to the access points that make up the mesh. But if the access points are too far from each other you'll still not see gigabit.

TCP is kinda like an old time bucket fire brigade. Imagine a line of guys passing buckets (packets) towards a fire and a separate line of guys passing empty buckets back. The return line is backhaul.

Now imagine if it were only one line and they have to pass a bucket forward, empty it then the same line has to pass it back before the next full bucket can move forward.

Now add in that WIFI works at the speed of the slowest connected device and there is some old B or G device attached, like that old iPod or tablet you gave to the kids, everything faster gets stuck behind it like a Ferrari on a one lane country road who just got cock blocked by farmer Joes hay wagon.

That's WIFI which is why you always always always want to hardwire anything you can.

If there is a live coax connection at your wifes laptop /printer area get a two pack of MoCA bridges and a small 5 port hub.

Drop the MoCA bridge and run ethernet from it into the hub then wire up both the laptop and the printer to the hub.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=GLL1TILVCZC6&keywords=5+port+hub&q id=1639975311&sprefix=5+port+hub%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-3

In general, this should all work perfectly using wireless. First thing I'd do is ditch the Comcast router and get your own. Depending on the size of the house, wall types, and desired coversge area, the option is a regular dual band router or a mesh system like an Asus CT8. My garage is 100 feet from the house and I still get usable signal there.

Use the free Wifi Analyzer app on a smartphone to check signal strength and channel usage.

Check for interference from neighbor's wifi. You may need to choose alternate 2.4GHz channels if there is.

Many thanks Gogar... Here is my interpretation of what you are suggesting with the goal to connect the Roku and TV with a hard wire and not use Wifi at all. Is this correct?
I need to buy:
- ScreenBeam module for one hook up. It looks like the usual thing is to use two. But I need just one side. Not sure which ScreenBeam to order, there are different models that seem to do the same thing. Please confirm.
- Ethernet switch to get two ethernet connections one for the TV and one for Roku
- buy a Roku with RJ45 input
- a simple coax splitter

Please add any comments or ideas. Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1640014764.jpg

I agree. I did this previously and when I had an issue I had nobody to diagnose the issue over the phone or come to the house. I went back to the Comcast black tall box with one light. Side note: Comcast said they would give me a faster gateway for free (the white tower). I did that and had issues with that related to it handling 2.4 and 5GHz. The tech. said they may not have it quite right and I want back to the black tower. I have that now. The speed seems good enough.

Also thanks to Stomachmonkey. Is my latest diagram with the ScreenBeam okay?

I don't think that diagram is quite right.

again I suggest you just install Netflix, prime, and Hulu on the roku as well and ditch the internet switch and Ethernet to your (basically ancient 1st gen) clunky smart tv.

So, cable from the box and everything else from roku. Save yourself a remote and some annoying clicks every day.

There is something missing.

Residential broadband equipment generally comes in two flavors.

A single combo modem / router or separate modem and router.

Look at your router, if it has coax in and out it's a combo unit and you want to split the output.

If it only has coax in then there is a separate modem somewhere that is feeding the router and you want to split on the output (house) side of that modem.


EDIT. If you plan on using the ROKU you don't really need to feed ethernet to the TV, you can get Netflix, HBO, HULU etc... on the ROKU.

On most Cable systems, you have an app in the setup screens to check signal quality.

You said you have ~150 down and ~43 up. That does not sound right, unless you are checking it with a WiFi connection. My cable is 1000 down and 40 up. I get about 920 down and 45 up. But that is checking it with a wired connection.

Your cable modem can also be holding you back. Some of the older cable modems, especially the older ones supplied by the cable company, are only capable of about 300 down.

That's a good idea. Do I still need to install the ScreenBeam? In the ScreenBeam questions they talk about the modem needing to be bonded or something like that.

The modem/router is Comcast. All in one box (modem/router). There is no coax output.

Correct but if you've bought a plan with higher speeds they should have sent a new modem.

Mind you what they should do and what they actually do is not always the same thing. ;)

I was checking it with Wifi.

It seems using MoCA and Xfinity is a known situation. I might need a different Xfinity modem/router that is MoCA enabled or capable.

https://robotpoweredhome.com/moca-xfinity/

There is more about using MoCA and Xfinity here.
https://us.hitrontech.com/learn/can-i-use-a-moca-adapter-with-xfinity-or-spectrum-internet/

In my experience, I have found the WiFi through the Comcast boxes to be horrible. I ditched my Xfinity box and replaced with a third party modem and a couple of wireless access points, and it's much, much better.

I think one thing I can do is get "all" (Netflix, Plex, Amazon, HBO Max, maybe Youtube TV) my streaming apps. coming via my current Roku wireless module. I'm assuming the wifi in the Roku is better than the wifi in my very old "Smart" TV. This gets me closer to cutting the cable TV cord I think.

That sounds like a solid plan. I have my Roku hard wired to ethernet so I can't speak to the WiFi capabilities, but I would assume pretty good.

Agreed. I feel the solutions being discussed here are overly complex. Comcast probably makes you jump through hoops, but you should be able to use your own router and all they provide is the cable modem. Unless the house is huge or the walls are blocking signal, pure wireless should work.