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Adhering sheet metal without Welding?
I was working on my 330 track car today and I wanted to roll the rear fenders for wider tires. The fender roller didn’t work, due to the two layers of sheet metal, so then I moved to the BFH.
The hammer worked to an extent, but I could not get it as flat as I wanted. So, I came up with the great idea to use my cut off wheel to cut back the inner wheel lip and flatten it with the hammer, then weld it. It worked good until the welding part. I totally botched it up, burned some holes in the inner fender and could not get the two pieces to weld. My Mig welding skills obviously suck. Being a track car, looks don’t matter to a degree. Is there some kind of automotive adhesive that I can squirt in between the two pieces of metal to adhere them and fill in any holes? Once I am finished, I will use seam sealer or under coating to cover everything. Right now, JB Weld is high on my list.😂 Edit: with hindsight 2020, the other side worked like a champ, because I left a little more metal to work with. I was able to fold it over the inner fender. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1641515072.jpg |
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What about epoxy with some sort of filler so it doesnt run out the cracks? Something like west systems?
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I'd keep welding using the 'stich' method. I have, and many other people have welded up a 3/8ths" hole with MIG.
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Just a little mig zap and wait for it to cool so you can touch it with your hand. Repeat. Then maybe grind flat and hose it down with metal primer. https://youtu.be/U9iki7bQblc Or find someone who can weld to do it for you. Edit: 110v is no problem there's no issue with power when you're welding thin sheet. Issue is too much heat. Bigger problem is old rusty welding wire or a stuck wire feed. New modern mig wire is amazing. https://canadianbj.files.wordpress.c...-pm.jpg?w=1500 https://canadianbj.files.wordpress.c...-pm.jpg?w=1500 https://canadianbj.files.wordpress.c...-pm.jpg?w=1500 |
^^^^^ I might as well give it another try tomorrow, and see what happens. What I don’t want to do is somehow burn the outside edge or exterior paint.
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if you're blowing holes in the steel sheet, you are using too much current
I would keep trying with the welder until you figure it out, its a skill worth having I welded the fenders back on my 76 after I abandoned my wide fender project. If you're using flux core, it will be more challenging but still can be done. A shield gas kit makes it easier. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403166888.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403167006.jpg https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/816906-skinny-fat-skinny.html a non-pro tip: when welding my fenders back on I went to home despot and bought a short length of copper tubing, maybe 1" dia. One end I took a hammer to and smashed flat about an inch. I used the copper to place behind the gap I was trying to fill. The filler wire will not fuse with the copper and the copper acted as a back stop. This made filling the gap much easier. |
Urethane Construction Adhesive - accept no substitutes
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1641532695.jpg |
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QWYG1O https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI2UY So about $130 all in |
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I have a copper spatula for welding, but the backside is not accessible. Also, my tank of argon ran dry, so that was probably another factor that didn’t help. I’ll pick another one up today.
Question: what size wire would be best? I believe I have a .30 wire in the machine now. |
I have to think 0.023" would be better for a non pro welder.
Gas is important. If you get the panel adhesive get the gun as mentioned. It works well. |
Thanks, guys.
I’ll let you know how it works out over the weekend. |
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Also the whole area needs to be a lot cleaner if you are welding. And I don't see how you can get a good weld AND NOT burn exterior paint. Being a track car, construction adhesive may be the way to go. $10 and 5 minute job and you are done. |
Shaun, you might be right. That picture is from the left side, which came out a lot better, with cutting and folding. No welding. I was too embarrassed to show a picture of the right side, which was prepped much better for welding
With the outside metal folded over on the inner fender, I didn’t know if the heat will transfer to the paint. My thought was to keep the stitches very small and hope for the best. Most likely, I’m going toend up painting about an inch of outside fender lip. |
the guy I bought mine from was telling me about some rear flares for the rear.
and then said use M3 fronts. I can get 265's on mine. 8.5 rim with a 50 offset. |
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I’m going to use the wheels I bought for the M3 on my 330, so there’s some work to be done. They are 265/35/18 on 18 x 19.5 with a 35 ET. A deeper ET would definitely help. I’m not sure if the M3 front fenders will fit the facelift E46. Maybe the headlights would have to be changed out? The front bumper would need to be stretched or replaced with an M3 style. |
Got to have gas, be it argon or co2, or a mix. And as mentioned do lots of practice on thin metal and look at lots of youtubes on the subject. And once the machine is setup right you'll be fine :)
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