From that...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1642267138.JPG

The only reason not to use anti-seize has to do with proper ground which was never an issue in the old days when heads were cast iron. Porsche was actually the first manufacturer, (if memory serves), to specify NOT to use it on plugs due to grounding issues.

I don’t usually use it but I try to get everything as clean as possible, (a good steam clean if needed before removing plugs), and put a drop of oil on threads before installing. It’s all about avoiding corrosion. And don’t over tighten, just nice and snug.

IIRC anti-seize on the threads would often get into the cylinders (often from slop application over the exposed edge) and end up neutering the catalyzing effects of the cat-converter.

One of the reasons that the sparkplug manufacturers plate the threads. (effective anti-seize)

The anti-seize I use is conductive. I use only a tiny bit and I put it in a place that ensures it will not get into the cylinder. And yes, lubing fastener threads can result in over-tightening, but I stop turning spark plugs when I feel the crush washer finish crushing. I do not have experience with spark plugs that lack the crush washer.

I hadn’t thought about the over-tightening because of lube aspect it that’s legit. If only everyone knew how to properly tighten fasteners, what a better world it would be. :)

When any threaded object stops turning, (the noticeable *stop*), you are beginning to stretch the threads. Which is alright to an extent but that extent depends on the size/strength of the bolt or nut and application. Crush washers change the equation slightly but not much.

A lot of people have no “touch” for this, unfortunately.

Of course it's legit. Simple physics there.

Oh, and supe, do you think that the metal threads never touch when lubed? (and need electrically conductive lube)

This came up on my Facebook feed today and I thought of this thread…

My then 8 year old son changing the left rear spark plug on my wife’s Tribeca… my hands wouldn’t fit in there…

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1642808059.jpg

I have about 200,000 kms on the plugs in my Tundra so they are due to be changed again. I’m 40,000 over on the plug change in my WRX and I plan to recruit my now 11 year old son to help with that one…

my greatest moment was changing the plugs on my wife Subaru.

getting that done was so epic. I had two good friends come over, with beer. they peeked in and asked, "wait, do we need to lift the motor?!!" I said, I hope not.

there is a distinct movement with the parts to get them out. I called it a "pirouette". it was a spin and bend..haha.

Cliff, You need to try out your skills changing 981 Cayman plugs. 3/4" threads that always come out crusty and fight you the whole way, all the while the catalytic converter shielding is slicing your wrists. One of those jobs you can either see it or feel it but not both at the same time. ;)

thanks Dan. now I know what tonight's nightmare theme will be!! YIKES

If it doesn't crack loose easily, turn it in until it softens up slightly.
-The bolt compresses instead of stretching.
-The loosen side is usually more stripped on the hex.

Rock back and forth to break up the carbon crown on plugs.

don't forget to change your oil
after every fill-up
can't be too careful

I've never really had a problem removing & installing spark plugs and I don't use anti seize. Maybe it's the car I've owned? (Mostly European)

First use a shop vac to get rid of any dirt or dust around the spark plug before you start and I wont even attempt to remove the spark plugs from a warm engine. Someone may disagree with that but it's something my father taught me long ago. The new plugs threads should be checked for nicks and make sure the threads in the spark plug holes are clean. Always use a torque wrench to install them.

A long time ago I had a Fiat 500 and one of the spark plugs popped out on its own as I was driving along. This happened just after I had bought the car so maybe the PO didn't tighten it properly. The threads weren't damaged and there were no problems reinstalling the spark plug.

- As a side note: My ex wife said this to my eldest daughter recently - "It's not fair that your father can work on his own cars. The rest of us have to pay someone else to do it." - She said this just after I had spent the afternoon fixing my daughters car! :confused:

how do you think an pro shop does it?. they would lose money if they had to cool a motor overnight before a plug change. i cant imagine they have the luxury of time. but yea..i would if i could. i cooled mine about 3 hours while i worked some and ate lunch.

i have until July to decide if i am buying a new truck or not. i'm on the fence.

I don't know how a pro shop does it. Also I only adjust valves when an engine is cold. A pro shop would also do that with a warm engine.