Pelican Parts Forums - WTF... no Dino oil at the Mart !!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cockerpunk (Post 11587073)

thats a sign the oil is better, and your engine is not sealed well. fix the seals, and enjoy better engine lubrication and less wear.

Oh I agree, apart from perhaps really antique engines with big tolerances, like pre 60ies or whatever..

911's hell, they are plenty modern enough and seals are very doable..

I'm saying...if you have a non-leaking engine with dino oil....why switch and cause leaks?
I understand the benefits of syn.....but why cause problems if your car doesn't leak?

it will leak eventually, I'de say those that leak, leaked because them seals were done and should have gotten new seals as well as new oil

That the new oil clears up gunk in the engines, and also gunk in the seals
That's what does it, them additives that gets the gunk to release and come out...

doesn't mean no new oil is a best solution.. hell, you still have the gunk in the rest of the engine as well as in them seals

I'de rather have the the better oil in
and gunk out of the oil galleries, and everywhere else
and if a seal leaks, a new , better seal to replace it

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevej37 (Post 11587016)

If it's synthetic...it must say it on the container.

Think you'll find it's the other way around. In Europe, there are very strict laws regarding what can be labelled "synthetic". And that's where the Liqui-Moly I put in the turbo comes from (although I was very happy with Rotella for years).

In the US, it's less strict; some (who know more about the topic than I) have said that it is almost a marketing term now. Which isn't to say that you can't get full synthetic in the US - but, for example, ~20 years ago US Mobil-1 could not have been sold in Europe as synthetic; Mobil 1 formulated for the European market was a full synthetic, and US Mobil 1 was apparently not. This was stated on the massive oil thread in Technical, and I'm certainly not going to go looking for that post again...

However:

Quote:

In 1998, Mobil sued Castrol over the discovery that Castrol was processing conventional oil and calling it synthetic. At the time, Mobil 1 was still created using a true synthetic basestock, which is more expensive. Mobil lost the lawsuit, and, as a result, the definition of 'synthetic oil' became looser. In response, Mobil downgraded their process to the less expensive process. The result is a hydrocracked, hydroisomerized conventional oil. Lubes N' Greases magazine has reported shortcomings in the ability to pass the tests that the original Mobil 1 formula was able to.[3]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobil_1

I noticed that synthetic oil really stinks when it burns on the exhaust. I also think it makes leaks much worse, or creates leaks that did not exist before.
For the 911, I switched back to 20w50 Castro classic oil with extra zddp in it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevej37 (Post 11587095)

I'm saying...if you have a non-leaking engine with dino oil....why switch and cause leaks?
I understand the benefits of syn.....but why cause problems if your car doesn't leak?

because your engine already has the problem if it leaks just by putting in better oil.

^^^ I would rather not go looking for problems...as far as a clean engine goes.
The dino oil I use in my 911's has worked fine for the 20 and 25 years I have owned them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatbutt (Post 11586059)

Beat me to it. I just bought two jugs of high zinc for the Duc.

Delivered by last night!

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevej37 (Post 11587095)

I'm saying...if you have a non-leaking engine with dino oil....why switch and cause leaks?
I understand the benefits of syn.....but why cause problems if your car doesn't leak?

Agree ^^^^^^ Should have been more clear in my original post. The dino oil I purchased at the Mart was for my lawn tractor (a 18 YO JDeere LT160 with over 1200 hours on it). I have been using Mart branded 10W-40 in it since the first oil change. It has no leaks, doesn't burn oil and still runs good. NO WAY was I changing to synthetic at this point in time. My apologies ...

Synth leaks are another internet myth.
Debunked.

It's amazing how long misinformation lives on.

It is a wives tale. When synthetics first came out, like 30 years ago, they could affect seals and cause leaks. Oil manufacturers quickly figured that out (they work closely with car manufacturers) and put additives in to stop that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarwood (Post 11590768)

Thanks for the factcheck Sugga.

Dino about that !

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarwood (Post 11590768)

I was using a full synthetic oil in my racing kart in 1960. After a whole day of racing I could wipe the top of the piston with a white cloth and barely see a bit of yellow stain.

Go forward to the 80's when I was racing the big tracks like Willow, I used oil that actually helped with the burn. If you weren't careful and you were running your CC's very close to the rules, you could go over just because of the build up.

These were hour long races so you couldn't run as lean as you might in a sprint. So you got some carbon deposits. IDT anyone was using a full synthetic then.

I'm the last guy you want to ask about molecule sizes of various oils. I just know what I've seen and done, and the more complex oils were needed when the engines got more powerful. Original synthetic starts out with a smaller molecular formulation according to what little I know. Today's oils are very complex. When stretched to as little as 40:1 in racing gas, that oil has to hold up (or hold together, as in polymers — I am not saying oil is a polymer — it's just an expression).

Crankcase oil would be horrible in a racing 2-stroke motor.