I've been using "Starrett Kleenscribe Layout Dye" for decades young man. Just a touch with a cotton swab. ;)

and you need to learn about burrs

you can not sharpen an edge without creating a burr. it is 100% required.

Then, you can not cut well until you remove the burr

removing the burr is my weakness.

you feel the edge with your fingernail

if you have a burr, your fingernail will catch on it. at this point, its time to sharpen the other side

there is quite a learning curve to learning how to sharpen but its worth it

ok. i never head of that and most knife people use a sharpy. whatever works for you is fine so long as you can see if your hitting the edge

who calls a 50 YO a young man? How old are you anyway?
geeze :p

57... :)

that's genius !!

I've had Benchmades since 1995, and I've been using them daily for utilitarian duties the entire time. I've never had a problem using them as a knife. I started with liner lock models, and have graduated to AXIS lock models.

I ran my steel over it and that brought back the edge. It’s not perfect but it’s better than it was.

I’m going to 3D print a sharpener. Which of these seems like the best?

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Knife+sharpener&page=1&type=things&sort=r elevant

Well...no offense. But I'm not the one starting a thread about sharpening a $100 knife with "everyday stuff". I would use a high-ish dollar sharpener on the expensive knife. The very best knives get sent back to the factory (the Shun knives). Knife sharpening is a real skill. I know that it's beyond what I can do to sharpen let's say a Benchmade Infidel. I know this so I don't attempt it, and no way no how am I gonna go at it with a file.

Just try a EDC removable blade knife. As I said the first time, you will thank me for the advice. Outdoor Edge is good. Lennox boxcutter with a hook blade is the shiznit for cutting straw bales. I cut thousands of straw bales. Literally. Thousands per year.

These aren’t sharpeners. These are just the guides that get attached to a sharpener ….unless I’m not understanding something. Most of those have metal parts….where will you get those? Your going to fabricate an entire guided sharpening system? Why not just buy a KME or other system

I would just spend $20 - $30 on what I suggested above

I sharpen our Shun on either a water stone or diamond plate and then strop (just this past Wed evening and then my chisels and plane irons last night.) They are all sharp enough to shave with.

Almost anyone should be able to most Benchmade knives really sharp with something like a Lansky sharpening system. But it's also possible to use a Lansky and get moderate results. It does take some time, thought/understanding, and attention to do a good job.

Actually, there is a small stone in those that performs the sharpening. A Lansky is basically the same. It's a system that includes a guide and stone to ensure that you maintain a consistent angle

<iframe width="720" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZLo76rd3-1M?start=108" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

^^ right, but he said he was going to make a "sharpener". What I saw in that page is either a guided sharpening system like Lansky or KME like I have.....(and I am not aware one can 3-D print metal parts), or it is a printed guide that you attach to a stone

so, he will need to get the correct size stone for the printed guide he makes. Why waste time with this and not just buy a field sharpener for less than $30
(yea I saw the guide that attached to a coffee mug --- good luck sharpening modern steels with that -no thanks)

And, the poster still has never said which model Benchmade he has so we do not even know what type of steel the blade is made of

With 1095, I can sharpen a pocket knife by rubbing it on my levis on my leg

With modern steels - stainless like crucible steels, or tool steels I can not. In fact, I find it an absolute biotch to sharpen modern steels, especially if the edge needs re-profiling which it will

so, I would never select a sharpening "system" until I knew what type of steel the blade was made of , and, how long the blade is (to confirm it will fit on the system) but I do know that the 2 cheap sharpeners I suggested above by Worksharp and Smith's are diamond and will do the job if he has a modern steel - and likely be overkill if its just basic carbon steel (1095 etc...)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648225452.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648225509.jpg

That’s my knife. The blade is CPM20CV and I think I mentioned this in the first post (maybe not).

Bench made and Jared Oeser seem to have had a falling out and these have been discontinued. This is the closest thing to it.

https://www.joeserknives.com/tengu-flipper

I can’t 3D print metal for the stones, etc. it is possible and the tech exists but I don’t have it.

If you look at the files on thingiverse, you can download the plastic parts you print and they supply a shopping list for the other parts such as rods, stones, fasteners, etc.

I looked at the KMS sharpeners and the other variants and locally, they are money.

I know I can buy a $100 sharpener, that’s not the point of my question. It was, how can I sharpen this thing and maintain the edge with the 5hit I got?

Anyway - if you care to help, please look at the designs on thingiverse and let me know which one seems the best. I will get my 11 year old son to print this for me and we will do this has a father - son project. He can then use it to sharpen his knives too.


https://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/956624-knife-leatherman-inscription.html

For CPM20CV you will need a diamond stone or rods. (some will say ceramic will work for it - I wouldn't recommend it)

You do not need to spend $100.

The Smith's DC4 is $20 and perfect for that knife

I dont see anything on that page regarding 3-D printed sharpening stuff that I personally would bother wasting time with. Perhaps someone else can recommend

I took an extensive look at thingiverse again

i suppose you could take a chance on any of the guided sharpening systems if you can source the metal parts locally

problem for me is, there is no way to know if the end result is worth the effort. The expensive KME and Lansky, et al....have years of reviews available and you basically know what to expect

The other guides are ok but youll need to place them on a diamond, so why not just buy one that is proven to work for $20

I know you want a dad/son project but...im not sure what you would be getting into here with these

I cant find the smith DC4. Is this a stone or a v-guide with a stone on either side (for lack of a better description)?

Its this --- sorry DCS4
https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DCS4-4-Inch-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B00009YV6L

Ordered. Thanks for the recommendation.

I have a few blades along with some other kick-butt goodies. I saw a cool You tube video on on the fly quick ways to sharpen a blade without a stone. Top edge of a car window, roll it down and sharpen. Bottom edge of a coffee mug, it's not glazed an it works, soft side of a emery board, pond stones, etc. Its was interesting, and I did the coffee mug bottom to test it out on a older knife. It worked..:cool:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648383482.jpg

This is your best option. That is very hard steel and shouldn’t dull easily...especially from cutting cord. Send it off and get it done right...assuming it really needs it.