Car polisher/polishing products

[drcoastline]

Any recommendations on a car polisher for DIY use? I guess a DA style is best? Simply looking to remove some minor imperfections in the clear coat. Are the pads interchangeable from one to another? If I got the Bauer at HF can I use the pads from say Griots? Is one brand truly any better than another?

Saw a few on line and in brick and mortar stores

6" VonHaus $69.99 on line includes 6 speeds from 1500-6800RPMS includes some pads

HF has a Bauer for $79.99 6 speed from 3200-6400. Doesn't appear to include any consumables.

Griot's $159.99 Autozone seems a bit pricey. Is it any better than any other?

There are literally dozens more to choose from, these are just a few. Since these are DA polishers it begs the question any reason I can't just use a hook and loop DA sander with a polishing pad?

How about compounds, polishes, etc.? Many years ago I used 3M finesse it. It seems the 3M product is now Perfect it? Thoughts on other brands/products? Meguire's, Mothers, Griots? There are so many products it's daunting.

[Seahawk]

Sub'd.

The 96 Land Cruiser I bought is white and the paint is dull.

[cabmandone]

The DA's aren't really "the best" but they're the safest for anyone who has never used an actual buffer. With a DA style you don't tend to burn through the clear coat (as long as you're not using an aggressive compound). For compound I use Meguiars products. I have a paste buffing compound that is a bit aggressive and then three different liquids with varying cutting ability with the last being the finest which I think is mirror glaze.

BTW you can use an air DA. You just want to have something controlling the air flow so your hand doesn't get too happy on the trigger. Sounds like you've done some buffing in the past. Not sure which buffer you used. Here's the one you see a lot of professional shops using and it's the one I'll be buying.
DeWalt DWP849X Variable Speed Polisher with Soft Start

[Rickysa]

This guy gives out more info than you can imagine, but all great stuff. I use 3M's three-step program with color coded compound/polish material and matching pads.

[Rickysa]

regarding machines:

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Rupes Bigfoot 5-inch Random Orbital Polisher

When buying any kind of tool, I've always used the philosophy of getting the best possible. Saves time and money and you never have regrets.

[Rickysa]

torqx gets some press:

[R K T]

I bought a Porter-Cable for $200 about 25 years ago. I’ve detailed many cars other than just mine and it still works like new.

3M is my choice for serious work.

[Rickysa]

I went with the DeWALT DWP849X...variable speed, soft start,

[drcoastline]

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I watched all those videos and then some. left me more confused than before I started.

Nick- I am looking for safest, It's ok if it takes longer I just don't want to burn through the clear coat or damage it.

The last time I polished paint was back in the early 90's after I painted the 911. 3M had just introduced the Finesse it products and foam pads. Back then the hook and loop backing pad just screwed onto my angle grinder. I used the foam pad instead of the wool pad in the early stages of polishing so I didn't burn through my paint. Once I got a basic shine the finishing was all done by hand. I think I still have the 3M backing in my box.

I generally believe in buying the best tool for a job but considering this is something I may only use a few times not sure I want to spring for the Dewalt. It sure looks professional but probably over kill for me.

[brainz01]

My $0.02: The Harbor Freight polisher works well for the money and gets great reviews. The new Bauer version looks nicer/better built than the old maroon one they sold. Use a coupon.

Unless you're a pro, just use Meguiars 105 (cut) and then 205 (polish). They're good, cheap, and readily available (including at Harbor Freight and Pep Boys). You'd have to try hard to damage the paint with these compounds. They also work on plastic headlights.

I've also used the Harbor Freight pads and they are ok for my purposes (occasional polish). Ive also bought better ones from Amazon (dont remember brand - - whatever was highly rated). I seem to recall the Amazon ones were more durable, but ultimately I usually dispose of the pads after a polish or so.

You can make this much more complicated, but for occasional, non-professional use, the above will give very satisfying results.

[Seahawk]

Originally Posted by Rickysa

This guy gives out more info than you can imagine, but all great stuff. I use 3M's three-step program with color coded compound/polish material and matching pads.

Very enjoyable video. I watched the whole thing since I am a complete newb on detailing.

[bleucamaro]

I have the Porter Cable Random Orbital with a velcro backing plate.

Both the pad and the compound matter. And getting the wax stripped before machine polishing seems to help a lot (more than just clay-bar).

I like the Chemical Guys products (pads & polish) as well as 3M's PerfectIt Ultrafine Machine Polish.

After polishing, I like the Chemical Guys Jetseal (Acrylic Sealer). I machine apply with a soft foam pad.

[1990C4S]

Another vote for the Porter Cable random orbit.

[Scott Douglas]

When my son was in high school and I had an old 912, I had him polish it one summer. So he spent a week researching and figuring out how to do it.
He used an old fashioned orbital buffer I got cheap.
He used the products shown in the pic.
He got the results shown in the pic.

[Zeke]

You can't really 'cut' with a DA. However, cutting is for the experienced. Cutting exposes a new surface free of oxidation. Sanding removes more getting the surface imperfections out and flattening the surface. By that I mean orange peel.

For most of us, a cleaner/wax is plenty sufficient. Used frequently it will do a good job safely.

I've been down every one of these paths and unless you have a show car and NEVER wash it, the complete sanding and multi step polishing method will be wasted in 3 months. And it costs a lot of money to have all the products on hand. Aside from 2-3 different machines, the micro fiber cloths, sand paper, compounds and waxes is well into the $200 bracket. Add in really good machines and you need a grand to just wet your feet.

Is it worth it? IDK because I don't spend that kind of money nor do I go for full show car finish and I get compliments daily.

On a truck.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Another Porter Cable owner here. Lots of great products out there, look around on Auto Geek. Great company, great prices, and there’s also a lot of great info on their website.

[porsche4life]

I have a porter cable and ordered chemical guys pads on amazon. Used the meguirs stuff and was able to pull a shine back on some badly oxidized 80s era single stage recently. Lots of elbow grease and wet sanded first but it was shiny when done.

[Tim Hancock]

I have used an old Harbor Freight variable speed buffer similar to below for years usually just with the 3M compound shown below for just about every thing I ever needed to polish. This includes old cars, fiberglass boats, airplanes, car headlights, aluminum etc. Typically I use a wool pad to "get her done" quickly.... That said, I do have a couple foam pads and some finer 3M Perfect it compound for the rare occasion that I am trying to get a "perfect" finish on something.

I have never owned one of the dual head orbital type polishers... I am sure they are nice, but the $30 HF buffer has served me well for many years and I would buy another if my 10+ year old one ever dies.

[RWebb]

to remove some minor imperfections in the clear coat...

just put a pad on your random orbit sander - use the least abrasive polish possible (I used a Meguiars product in the red (consumer) bottle)