When removing a stuck fastener - heat or freezing - which is more effective?
 

At my Mom's house they had storm shutters installed years ago but unless they are maintained on a regular basis of course the fasteners are going to get bound up.

In this case they are hex head bolts & normally you'd only have to use this tee- wrench but they have sat for several years so are now a bit frozen up.

I plan to apply Kano Aero-Kroil penetrate, spray this CRC Freeze-Off product on the fastener itself, and then gentle wiggle back and forth with vice grips.

My older brother, who is a machinist by trade, had this suggestion:
I see what he's saying. Warming the metal will shrink it away from the fastener and subsequently allow more space for the penetrate to flow.

Thanks for any opinions!

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Heating the area around the screws should cause it to expand which should make the bolt more "loose." I've also wondered about using something to freeze the bolts, like the stuff for freezing a wart off or an upside down can of compressed air. Freezing the bolt should shrink it (I would think) which should accomplish the same thing.

I've heard that installing interference fit bearing races can be done by putting the race in the freezer for a while, or putting the hub in the oven for a while (or maybe both).

But this is all theory or hearsay. I've not had to use heat to remove a bolt before. I'm sure some of the other guys that have first hand experience will chime in.

The answer is always heat ! . As stated above, try to heat the metal surrounding the fastener . That should make the metal expand, looseing the fastener .
I like to make it glow , but may not be safe in your situation . This is the magic trick for working on cars in the rust belt. Especially exhaust fasteners . I just did some work on an ML 350 that lives at the beach today . It was every bit as rusted and corroded as any rust bucket here in Pa .
Good luck friend

It's the same way I use to install piston wrist pins.

I put the pins in the freezer for a few hours. and I heat the pin end of the connecting rod. It expands the rod just enough to slide the pins in. Just have to work fast!

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Thanks, Paul. My older brother said he's tried them all over the years and this Kano Aero-Kroil is the best one.

Thanks, guys - heat it is then!

I'll keep everyone posted on results as appropriate.

SmileWavy

Thanks, Vinny! ;)

Heat but looking at that, there are other factors involved, looks like stainless steel fastener in aluminium, add water, guaranteed to corrode. Fortunately it is a socket head so you have a chance, heating and adding penetrating oil and some time gently wiggling them to get oil deep in the threads and you should get them out, don't try to remove until they rotate freely, With aluminium against stainless you will end up with easy galling. Better replace with grade 5 zinc aluminium coated SHCS vs stainless steel.

My brother is the one who replaced the fasteners several years ago. I sent him an email asking if he remembers what they were made from. You are probably right and I bet his intention was that "someone" stay involved with these shutters and service (meaning lubricate) the fasteners every year just to prevent this very situation from happening.

I like your idea better though and will look into it.

Thank you! SmileWavy

That must have been a popular brand. I remember them well, had them on a condo until the association replaced all windows with hurricane glass.

I was able to get most of them working again with penetrating fluid, don't remember the brand, but time was on my side. Soak, come back in a few months, soak again. A few I drilled out, or got the aluminum rod out, and drilled/tapped a new hole.

My bigger issue were the rollers at the top. Those bolts were permanently stuck.

Heat always helps when trying to remove a stuck fastener but you also should be using "good" tools.

Wera make "Hex Plus" Allen keys. They're not cheap but they have a special shape so they bite into the corners of the fastener. They work really well for difficult fasteners. When I first saw them I thought they were just another gimmick but they really do work. And make sure you take the time to clean out the socket on the screw.

https://www-de.wera.de/en/great-tools/hex-plus/

If you are looking, McMaster sells the class 12.9, alloy steel socket head in Zinc aluminium coated.

Put anti sieze on when you reassemble. I like using fasteners that are same metal as the frame

Battery powered impact, with a good hex key socket. Bump it a bit loose, bump it a big tight. Back and forth, back and forth. Don't go to town, and don't use a pneumatic, just your basic 12 or 18 volt tool. It won't be able to break the bolt, and probably won't be able to chew the head up, but it'll be able to crack things loose.

Hmmm...

I use Kroil from the can, and apply it with a good oiler. I agree on copper grease "anti-seize".

I would probably try an impact tool. I have a Gedore impact driver that you hit with a hammer in situations just like this.

I don't mean to be a Troll but get some of these. I will not use any other brand on my bicycles.
Expensive but you wont regret it Sir Baz! :)

Search "Hex Plus" on Google.

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Firm rap on the head of fastener will get them loose sometimes

Pete, what's special about those?

I bet a drop of oil overnight, they will come right out.

look closely at the business end of those

Search "Hex Plus" on Google. Basically the tool end has a unique shape that grips the inside of the fastener in the corners so you're less likely to damage the fastener getting it out.

But they are expensive. The set in the photo cost me about $70 AU.

EDIT: ... And what Tobra wrote above.

Cool. Just ordered. Will report back

Thanks!

Good idea - will do - thanks Tob!


Like the idea of an impact wrench - I have a Ryobi cordless too!


OK thanks Sir Peter! ;)


Will do that as well. Thanks, Tob!

We'll see. I hit two of them with the Kroil yesterday and am going back today....

Get up in the morning and spray Kroil on every fastener. Go to beach for the day. Repeat next day. Third day try to take them out with a proper allen wrench. If they don't come right out repeat spray and beach time. Kroil will wick into the threads and they will come out.

They are a bit cheaper here and available on Amazon.

These look good, because Allen style can easily deform the holes which make them harder to use in the future. And Allen head bolts are harder to replace than a regular hex head bolt.

Just have to be careful. They can help break things loose, but they can also more quickly bung things up (strip head, break bolt head off, etc...)

Get a pencil torch and just hit the head so you don't melt the paint on the door. All you are trying to do is break the seal. Then anti seize.

Heat, PB blaster

And a lot of curse words, some even made up

All the above, plus when you first put the tool to the fastener, you might try to tighten it juuuuuusssssst a little, to see if you can release the initial stiction.

You just want to hear that satisfying 'pop'.

The findings of his testing may surprise some here. It surprised me.

this.