When removing a stuck fastener - heat or freezing - which is more effective?

[Baz]

At my Mom's house they had storm shutters installed years ago but unless they are maintained on a regular basis of course the fasteners are going to get bound up.

In this case they are hex head bolts & normally you'd only have to use this tee- wrench but they have sat for several years so are now a bit frozen up.

I plan to apply Kano Aero-Kroil penetrate, spray this CRC Freeze-Off product on the fastener itself, and then gentle wiggle back and forth with vice grips.

My older brother, who is a machinist by trade, had this suggestion:

Before you add the penetrating oil try warming the frame around the screw with a pencil torch. Remove the torch, add a little oil, and let sit while you work on the next one. That should loosen them up a bit. Visegrips is a good idea.

I see what he's saying. Warming the metal will shrink it away from the fastener and subsequently allow more space for the penetrate to flow.

Thanks for any opinions!

[masraum]

Heating the area around the screws should cause it to expand which should make the bolt more "loose." I've also wondered about using something to freeze the bolts, like the stuff for freezing a wart off or an upside down can of compressed air. Freezing the bolt should shrink it (I would think) which should accomplish the same thing.

I've heard that installing interference fit bearing races can be done by putting the race in the freezer for a while, or putting the hub in the oven for a while (or maybe both).

But this is all theory or hearsay. I've not had to use heat to remove a bolt before. I'm sure some of the other guys that have first hand experience will chime in.

[fastfredracing]

The answer is always heat ! . As stated above, try to heat the metal surrounding the fastener . That should make the metal expand, looseing the fastener .
I like to make it glow , but may not be safe in your situation . This is the magic trick for working on cars in the rust belt. Especially exhaust fasteners . I just did some work on an ML 350 that lives at the beach today . It was every bit as rusted and corroded as any rust bucket here in Pa .
Good luck friend

[pwd72s]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs&ab_channel=ProjectFarm

[VINMAN]

It's the same way I use to install piston wrist pins.

I put the pins in the freezer for a few hours. and I heat the pin end of the connecting rod. It expands the rod just enough to slide the pins in. Just have to work fast!

.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by pwd72s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs&ab_channel=ProjectFarm

Thanks, Paul. My older brother said he's tried them all over the years and this Kano Aero-Kroil is the best one.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by masraum

Heating the area around the screws should cause it to expand which should make the bolt more "loose." -snip-

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

The answer is always heat !-snip-
Good luck friend

Thanks, guys - heat it is then!

I'll keep everyone posted on results as appropriate.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by VINMAN

It's the same way I use to install piston wrist pins.
-snip-

Thanks, Vinny!

[908/930]

Heat but looking at that, there are other factors involved, looks like stainless steel fastener in aluminium, add water, guaranteed to corrode. Fortunately it is a socket head so you have a chance, heating and adding penetrating oil and some time gently wiggling them to get oil deep in the threads and you should get them out, don't try to remove until they rotate freely, With aluminium against stainless you will end up with easy galling. Better replace with grade 5 zinc aluminium coated SHCS vs stainless steel.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Heat but looking at that, there are other factors involved, looks like stainless steel fastener in aluminium, add water, guaranteed to corrode. Fortunately it is a socket head so you have a chance, heating and adding penetrating oil and some time gently wiggling them to get oil deep in the threads and you should get them out, don't try to remove until they rotate freely, With aluminum against stainless you will end up with easy galling. Better replace with grade 5 zinc aluminum coated SHCS vs stainless steel.

My brother is the one who replaced the fasteners several years ago. I sent him an email asking if he remembers what they were made from. You are probably right and I bet his intention was that "someone" stay involved with these shutters and service (meaning lubricate) the fasteners every year just to prevent this very situation from happening.

I like your idea better though and will look into it.

Thank you!

[dad911]

That must have been a popular brand. I remember them well, had them on a condo until the association replaced all windows with hurricane glass.

I was able to get most of them working again with penetrating fluid, don't remember the brand, but time was on my side. Soak, come back in a few months, soak again. A few I drilled out, or got the aluminum rod out, and drilled/tapped a new hole.

My bigger issue were the rollers at the top. Those bolts were permanently stuck.

[sc_rufctr]

Heat always helps when trying to remove a stuck fastener but you also should be using "good" tools.

Wera make "Hex Plus" Allen keys. They're not cheap but they have a special shape so they bite into the corners of the fastener. They work really well for difficult fasteners. When I first saw them I thought they were just another gimmick but they really do work. And make sure you take the time to clean out the socket on the screw.

https://www-de.wera.de/en/great-tools/hex-plus/

[908/930]

If you are looking, McMaster sells the class 12.9, alloy steel socket head in Zinc aluminium coated.

[Tobra]

Put anti sieze on when you reassemble. I like using fasteners that are same metal as the frame

[Pazuzu]

Battery powered impact, with a good hex key socket. Bump it a bit loose, bump it a big tight. Back and forth, back and forth. Don't go to town, and don't use a pneumatic, just your basic 12 or 18 volt tool. It won't be able to break the bolt, and probably won't be able to chew the head up, but it'll be able to crack things loose.

[rusnak]

Hmmm...

I use Kroil from the can, and apply it with a good oiler. I agree on copper grease "anti-seize".

I would probably try an impact tool. I have a Gedore impact driver that you hit with a hammer in situations just like this.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

Heat always helps when trying to remove a stuck fastener but you also should be using "good" tools.

Wera make "Hex Plus" Allen keys. They're not cheap but they have a special shape so they bite into the corners of the fastener. They work really well for difficult fasteners. When I first saw them I thought they were just another gimmick but they really do work. And make sure you take the time to clean out the socket on the screw.

https://www-de.wera.de/en/great-tools/hex-plus/

I don't mean to be a Troll but get some of these. I will not use any other brand on my bicycles.
Expensive but you wont regret it Sir Baz!

Search "Hex Plus" on Google.

[Tobra]

Firm rap on the head of fastener will get them loose sometimes

[look 171]

Pete, what's special about those?

[look 171]

I bet a drop of oil overnight, they will come right out.