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Taking a curve in neutral ?
Looong ago when I was learning to drive (and there were not automatics) someone older than me told me you should never take a turn in neutral, the car would not handle well... It's something I'd never do... but I recall it happening once by accident when I was having fun on a mountain road, old car, gear didn't go in at all and I tool a relatively fast corner in neutral...nothing special happened...
Now that decades have passed, and I understand circle of friction better and spent years on track, I'm still struggling with the concept that it may or may not be true... It's obviously not something you'd do on track since you always try to maximize time, nor on the road because you want either some engine braking or the option to accelerate... But say you are cornering at a speed near the tire limit (but not above), other than missing the weight transfer aspect F/R due to deceleration or acceleration (and the % of driving tire lateral grip lost to accelerating or braking) - does it make a different at all to the car handling if you are in gear or not when taking the turn ? The car sure feels less stable... can anyone explain why ? |
I know when driving my 911 I feel better when I am in gear. If I can apply power to come out of a corner it is more fun, and I can control how much power. And never shift gears in a hard corner.
There is an off ramp the I take to get my area of town that has a large fun sweeper and comes to a traffic light where I turn right. I have to come to a stop 80% of the time. I enter the off ramp at 70, and usually just kick it into neutral and coast to a stop. I am still rolling at a decent speed as I hit the curve, but I know the corner very well after taking it for 15 years. Since I will be stopping, or at least slowing to 15 MPH I just let the speed bleed off. On the street I never corner very hard, lots of unknowns are out there. I learned that lesson long ago (1970s) when turning through a corner and all of a sudden I smelled diesel fuel, and I was sliding sideways towards a tall curb. I made the corner with inches to spare. Evidently some semi dumped fuel from his fuel tank with a bad fuel cap right in the corner. |
I can honestly say that I never saw a curve in a soap box derby race. Never.
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The real reason I would not want to take a curve in neutral is not having the right foot connected to the driving wheels on demand coupled with the potential for a mash up when re-engaging that unbalances the car if poorly done.
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Taking a corner in neutral removes your ability to control weight transfer with your right foot. All you have left is braking, and going for the brakes mid corner transfers weight to the front tires to cause understeer. You can do it but I prefer to have full control of the car with my right foot so I'll keep a gear selected.
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I taught my kids never to go through a curve in nuetral but not for some racing type lesson, but because it would take them longer to react to any type of situation if the clutch was in/not in gear. Same as going through an intersection.
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Depends on what you are driving, what kinda curve, how you are taking it (at speed?), etc.
I recall when learning to drive in the 356 I tended to want to do that to avoid going too fast or to avoid shifting while turning etc, and I fondly recall dad yelling "keep yer foot on the gas in the corners damnit!" |
It's just the car decelerating. Going at a slow or moderate speed it wouldn't make any difference.
But hard cornering it would be scary. The SC, for instance, would want to swap ends. |
I agree instinctively it seems like a bad idea, that's not my point, and I understand the argument of having options to balance the car with the gas...
I'm just asking from a physics standpoint, what difference does it make (if any?) to the car's handling if you are taking a curve in neutral vs with engine in gear, coasting (if you like assume it's a slight downhill curve to keep speed constant, also assume not at the limit but quick enough that you'd wanna be in gear, and finally let's say a cayman to avoid rear engine arguments) .. It sure feels "odd" and less stable if if happens and you ever missed a gear entering a corner... Is it, though ? from a tire/grip standpoint I can't explain why it would be worse or why the car would care at all assuming you are within the grip limits - if anything there would be lower demands from the driving tires, so more "circle of friction" % rubber available for lateral grip. Not at the limit (yet not slow), shouldn't it feel 100% similar and corner the same? Sure doesn't feel like that to me, feel terrible... Just wondering if we had physics gurus here ;-) |
Any downhill unpowered racing would perform this all of the time.
I've coasted around corners, not as a regular practice, but it will work fine as long as you don't end up braking mid-corner. I wouldn't want to be going through at the edge of adhesion. but going around well below threshold speed is fine from a dynamics point of view. |
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All the comments here are good. Having the car in gear give you more control options. With almost any car, having the drive wheels provide at least a little bit of power seems to make the car more stable, particularly with a rear wheel drive car. And perhaps that has to do with how the geometry of alignments is set up.
I'll add one thing, which is sort of just a bit more detail on the above: Cars seem to dive just a tiny bit onto the outside front wheel, in a turn where no power is applied. Perhaps the car is slowing down when no power is applied (on a flat plane). It feels like a tiny bit of power is needed to avoid loading that outside front wheel. And then there are 911s. As we know, power is absolutely needed for stable turning. If we find ourselves in a situation where we are worried about losing traction and going off the road, the LAST thing you want to do is lift. Lifting transfers weight off the rear axle. This lightens the rear axle; reducing traction, while centrifugal forces are trying to push that engine to the outside of the curve. In a "pucker" situation, we have no choice but to keep our foot on the gas. |
I have nothing to add other than, on the advice on many other Land Cruiser owners, I put my LC into neutral going down hill all the time...I don't live in the Rockies but I coast into roundabouts (Yes!) all the time but always put it in D 100 yards or so out. It just feels better and more controlled.
I hope Captain Ahab has some insight. |
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It's trick we occasionally used on snow/ice in a front-wheel-drive car to momentarily interrupt the understeer. But only as a last ditch effort to keep from going off road/track.
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why would you?
there are a half dozen, easy, small reasons to not, why would you? |
We're all wrong!
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The visitor's center at Paradise is the highest one can drive a car on Mt. Rainier.
Quite the curvy road snaking its way to the top. Since a Porsche 921E has no power steering or brakes, I once shut the engine off when leaving the Paradise parking lot. 14 miles. Coasting downhill, keeping as much momentum as possible around the dozens of curves allowed me to go 14 miles before needing help from the mighty sewing machine engine in the back for motivation. For those familiar, I was able to get to the Kautz Creek mud flow area before cranking over those four tiny pistons. At no time did I wish I was in gear. Of course, this was for fun, and the experience I've had on the track no doubt helped. |
Nothing different than floating the throttle to a neutral point.
My Jaguar has a shifter layout where it is very easy to go to neutral despite it being an automatic. There are situations where I go to neutral to conserve fuel where the level of engine breaking would be undesirable. I do the same with a manual car. If for a short time, I use the clutch and stay in gear. If for a long time I want to unweight the clutch and go to neutral. (higher wear on thrust bearing to have clutch pedal in.) Most cars have a front brake bias designed around dry weather driving. This means the fronts are going to lose it under braking in the rain much sooner. In a FWD car one could go to neutral in the rain under braking. Or even stay in gear and go light throttle, but that is best not practiced in situ. Quote:
I've had a heavy duty pickup with rock as the rear spring rate do that to me on a curly interstate ramp in the wet. Que up eurobeat from Initial D. I still wouldn't pick neutral for that, I'd pick to float the throttle. |
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Just a simple physics question, looks like having the car on either side of coasting (slight power, slight decel) changes nothing in this case. In no way would I recommend driving like that, controlling the car on the gas is a great option to have. Common wisdom is worth understanding sometimes... The first year I owned a 911, I was terrified of even getting off the gas (let alone brushing the brakes) in any turn situation, even at low speeds, because I'd read so much about them spinning backwards. Track days quickly disabused me of that notion and established the SC as an understeering pig, that would only spin if you completely screwed up or reacted by surprise at the limit. You actually drive these fast with the gas pedal/brakes more than with the steering wheel, so it's worth digging into common wisdom sometimes ! |
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What really surprised me was that when I sold the 911 and bought a miata, the miata was about as easy to steer with the throttle as the 911. On at least one occasion, I had the miata catch me off guard and step way out because I'd let off in a corner. The main difference was that it caught itself since it didn't have the lump in the back like the 911. |
The only time I recall cornering in neutral was with an automatic transmission, rwd vehicle, downhill on snowy streets. The small amount of drive on the rears would be enough to promote serious understeer, so I learned to pop them into neutral under those unique circumstances.
Best Les |
It's a thing, racing/coasting Motorcycles down mountain curves with no engine assist.
Helps develop brake sensitivity and conserve momentum. And my car trailer is always coasting and it does fine. |
Should never free wheel in a turn because it kills the balance.
getting through turns at speed is all about shifting weight shouldn't brake in turns either same reason you want weight off your non steering wheels and on your rear wheels. Weight off fronts prevents your turned wheel on the outsidfe from being jammed under the weight while it's rotating in different direction then the car is moving, resulting in skid Weight on the rear prevents rear from coming loose Brake before entry : All weight transfers forward Good for braking, bad for steering reapply minimal power in the turn . Car goes to more neutral balance build up power as your grip allows to power out All weight transfers to the rear bad for steering great for grip on rear wheels and power delivery (and why FWD sucks balls) |
there is a track i go to that has a long sweeping curve out of a sharper one.
so i am excelling very hard but i also have to shift in the middle of the curve. i was uneasy about it at first but all was fine, i also have a circle track friend that is very good. i was telling him about getting sides in the 930 several times. he said, if you get into trouble just push the clutch in. that takes all the weight distribution out caused by being on the gas or off the gas and the car goes "neutral" |
It feels different because you’re used to having the car in gear and you can feel the difference in the forces that are operating on the vehicle and it feels unusual to you.
It really doesn’t matter because all cars understeer as designed by the factory and that tendency is not going to change. Removing longitudinal forces from the rear tires only gives them more capacity to grip in the lateral direction. |
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Trail braking is a thing and can help during track in, but always to throttle before apex. On the track we turn them with the pedals as much as the steering wheel. |
Turning a corner is an acceleration.
Braking is an acceleration. (negative acceleration) doing the maths... |
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No doubt, no argument, on track trying to go fast, stay in gear. On the streets, with traffic of other idiots on the road, coming to a red light soon, in gear or not should make zero difference at 30 to 50% cornering ability. |
I never use neutral on a straight or a corner. :)
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I was going to point out that half of what he said made no sense but I don’t have time to get into that discussion. Thanks for doing the rest of us a favor.
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mine. stock cars are great track cars. cheap, full roll cages, cheap motors. mine has a quick change rear end so i can gear it for the track i am at. couldnt upload it |
in my youth I did something dumb. well, one of my dumb things.
I was going down a twisty road. In my moment of brillance I decided to coast down. I pushed in the clutch, and put the car in neutral. WEEEEEEEEEEE!! FUUUUUUNNNNNN! it took very little time to build up some speed. I almost lost it going around a corner immediately. okay, let's stop this stupidity. I put it back into the appropriate gear and motored down the road. Glistening from a fresh sheen of sweat. I would never corner in neutral ever again. in a 911SC that would have been potentially catastrophic. no bueno. maybe a slow-ass corner, like into a parking space. |
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proper, fast, braking will including braking while entering the corner. |
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if you are on the power before the apex, you've run too late of an apex line, and over slowed. proper throttle application is at the apex. this will also help you learn how much of a late apex you should be taking. on the power before the apex = too late. on the power after the apex = too early. |
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