Nice, thanks, that link included a pic of the bottom of the chair which was missing from the other site!

Ipe is 3684! on the janka hardness scale while common white pine is about 400.
(I bet those saw/router blades took a good beating at $10/pop)

All cedars are not the same:
https://handtoolessentials.com/blog/woodworking/lumber-guides/hardness-ratings-softwood-north-american-spieces/

Hard woods will splinter faster but softer ones with open pores will feel more comfortable rot and stay dirty. A trade off.
A good oiling probably doesn't hurt either.

I think they have those at Westrich Furniture. Next time I'm driving by I'll stop in and see.

Steve don't tell me you are thinking about making them? I think I still have the jigs and patterns for those chairs. A jig saw, flush trim router mounted to a router table is all you really need. I know you already have a table saw.

10 bucks? That was so 25 years ago. Now they are 30 bucks. Chop saw blades are 150. Went through two of them when I built my deck this past summer.

We've gone back and oil the chairs and deck once since for good business. The chairs, sanded the oil into the wood to preserve it making it splinter free but once winter and a few drops of rain cycles, it will all come back again. Its really isn't too bad. Its just not smooth.

No "making them". My wife bought some of the stuff made from recycled materials about a year ago, and we sent them back.

I could see myself, possibly, one day making them if the wife got a wild hair. They don't look like they'd be hard to make. And finding one exactly like you want, is tough (well, yes, but mostly finding one like the missus wants is tough).

Its not tough, she will tell you exactly what she want or show you a pic so you can just make 'em;). Its not hard at all.

Hahah, you'd think that. But then you get "I want it just like this on in the picture

... but instead of like that, can you make it a little different here, and there, and..."

What else is new? My wife will tell me to make something then she will tell me how to make it along the way and change this a little or that a little more:rolleyes::D Its all good.

If you want the death-stare which lasts years...
Just say "Fine, you can help me start to finish"

Another attractive design and similar to the one in the first post (still my favorite)

https://gracioushome.com/bainbridge-adirondack-chair-weathered/?sku=GH250208&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk7SU0ui8-AIVWcLCBB1ZaglfEAQYBSABEgJV4fD_BwE#mz-expanded-view-1606350679266

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1655842772.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1655842939.jpg

Is is common for them to fold up? The one I posted folds away for storage.

If you are a reddit guy, try HelpMeFind

https://www.reddit.com/r/HelpMeFind/

Those do look nice. To me they look like a MCM version of an Adirondack chair
No, most don't, but some do. I noticed that the one that you posted folds up.

Thanks to all here for you posts and comments. After considering all of the chair designs I keep coming back to this one. I just love the look of it!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1655843495.jpg

Here is the plan. I have been given the green light by the Head of Household to proceed with building a prototype of this chair subject to her final approval on comfort and ease getting in an out of it - seems like a fair ask. I have no dimensions to go on other than a seat height of 14.5" on the last chair I posted which is similar in design.

I will use this Family Handyman plan as a reference guide for seat depth, arm height, seat back angle, etc.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1655844139.jpg

For the prototype to keep the cost under control, I plan on using pressure treated 1" x 6" pine painted black lightly distressed/sanded to expose the wood grain on the corners then sprayed with satin poly for water protection.

Stay tuned!

Don't use pressure treated for the seat bottom, arms, and back if you plan to actually sit in the chair. The chemicals aren't healthy. I wouldn't want the backs of my legs, arms, or back on pressure treated wood.

For a prototype, I'd use plywood to get the design down before using a final species selection.

Mattingly's
Amish furniture store

39469 John Mosby Hwy, Aldie, VA
20105

OR

Near Leesburg VA

They are very friendly and helpful and the furniture is really nice.
They moved to a new location in Hamilton. 55 E Colonial Hwy, Hamilton, VA 20158

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mattingly's/@39.0069004,-77.7049276,13.25z/data=!4m9!1m2!2m1!1sAmish+furniture+store!3m5!1s0x 89b66b42f849d8e3:0xaa5462d4562e7b4f!8m2!3d38.97498 07!4d-77.6388212!15sChVBbWlzaCBmdXJuaXR1cmUgc3RvcmVaFyIV YW1pc2ggZnVybml0dXJlIHN0b3JlkgEVYW1pc2hfZnVybml0dX JlX3N0b3JlmgEkQ2hkRFNVaE5NRzluUzBWSlEwRm5TVVJaZFV4 cFZYaEJSUkFC

https://www.margaritavillestore.com/...h202f02_3_.jpg

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/b49...2&odnBg=FFFFFF

Bought these at a wholesale club a few years ago for vacation home. Cheesy, but actually comfortable. Held up well, but we have them under a covered porch.

Quite a few Adirondack chairs on our local facebook marketplace, probably cheaper than buying the wood.

I'd suggest pine - it is softer and easier on tooling, less susceptible to splintering as well. The completed prototype could be painted and used as well and would handle exposure to moisture better.