Need advice on how to replace a split gate post
 

Hey all, I have a sagging 10’ gate I need to fix. The gate posts also should be replaced but their cemented in my driveway. How do I get the posts out without jackhammering them out? Or maybe that’s the only way? Below is how they’re sunk in. Appreciate any advice!

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fire?

This is on my spring to-do list. No idea!

Two individual gates to make up 10' or two 10' gates to make up 20'?

Regardless, diagonally brace the gate from the lower hinge to the opposite upper corner. Bring the gate into square by blocking before bracing.

Is the split post affecting the gate? Leave the post in place and sleeve it with fence board on all 4 sides, securing the sleeve with glue and fasteners.

That looks like a royal PITA...

If it was me: Drill/Dig out the old post then assess the situation (how deep etc.). Use a shop vac to get the hole really clean. The post probably extends below the concrete into the dirt.

So what are you going to replace the post with? I'd use a galvanized steel box tube. Cut a hole large enough for new concrete in the existing the concrete (using a wet saw and chisel). You should be able to level the new concrete off so it blends well.

10 odd years ago I built a small garage. This is how I secured the posts.
Note you don't need a massive hole but it has to be deep. Deeper than the bottom on the new posts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677121241.jpg

Yep, it does look like a major PITA.

Me being a Kiwi, I'd just put a few big stainless steel screws in it and call it done.

I have a 6’ and 4’ piece that make up my 10’ gate.

I like the idea of strengthening the gate posts with boards all around then driving bolts through to secure them. It would definitely be a PITA to dig them out but probably easier and cheaper than jackhammering my expensive a55 driveway. If I can’t save the gate posts, I’ll replace them with galvanized steel.

LOL... :D

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The post looks fine.

Unscrew the gate, lay it on the ground, measure, and duplicate it with 2x4 and 1x6.
A hand saw and electric drill/screwdriver should be the only tools needed.

New wood should be stained a year later in hot dry conditions after the moisture levels have stabilized.

Add another hinge or two in the center for support if you want.

Apply lots of stain/oil to the post itself. Or even build up a bevel around the base to shed water.
That should last a while.

I agree with John. Posts looks fine. Get us a pic of the gate further away.

Check if post is plumb. I think your gate is sagging from its own weight. Measure the diagonals. That number should be the same or close. If not, there maybe few ways to repair instead of making new. Start with that.

I’ll take better pics tomorrow but the posts are split near the top.

I did this a few mos ago. Your setup looks almost identical to mine less the dry set wall.

I cut them ~3 inches from flush to the concrete surface, put an auger bit in the drill and drilled out series of holes down the centerline running north --> south and east-->west, cleaned a little with a chisel for a (mostly) clean slot, took a 5 lb sledge and knocked the 4 sections inward one at a time, pulled them out mostly intact.

Once the first piece comes out the rest are easy. Trick is to get all the way down to the bottom of the post.

Still sounds like it’s going to be a PITA

If the base of the post is ok...you can splice in a top section by cutting out half the 4x4 and screwing them together.
(At least a foot overlap of the adjoining 2x4 imo layman opinion)

It may look odd if the cuts and stain are not precise but it will work and be stable. Cheap fix here.

Then protect the new top with oil stain and a cap while it dries out.
The ends of the grain are most vulnerable to water.

All about perspective. Less of a PITA than cut, bust out the concrete, reset the post, pour new. I didn't want another mismatched patch.

I'd like to see the pictures but from what you describe as a split at the top, my first thought would be to sandwich 2 steel plates on either side of the split with thru bolts.
you could mortise them in with a chisel or a router (if you have room) so they aren't noticeable.
edit, a few 1/2 inch or 5/16 thru bolts with countersunk fender washers (all galvy) would probably do the job.

Then, if you just have wood screws in the hinge hardware, replace all those with thru bolts too.
Whoever designed that setup did you no favors sinking the posts in the driveway, but they look solid in your pictures.

Neighbor has a wooden gate like that across his driveway. Out at the ends of the swinging panels in the center of his driveway the panels have a spring loaded wheel, like the tailwheel on an airplane. Works like a champ to support the ends of the gate panels and making them easy to open and close.

All posts sitting outside have some type of split in them. Again, we are not there to actually see it but I really think the gate is sagging and out of square. Use a bit of glue, and a couple clamps and let it set up over night. Put a couple of bolts through it. Good as new. Fix that gate if its sagging. Again, we need more info. Its a simple and cheap fix. Its not the best looking but its a less PITA judging from those simple pics nothing looks rotted.

^ that's good. Use epoxy, or a urethane, not wood glue (not water proof)

Also you could put a veneer layer of cedar on the faces of the posts. (looks like the gate is cedar, so it should match up in time)

Weird idea - have a metal shop make you a square section sleeve that slides over the existing post.

As for the gate, I’m a fan of a large rubber wheel attached to the swinging end of the gate, that supports it so it doesn’t even want to sag.

All really good ideas, fellas. Thanks a bunch. I’ll take better pics tomorrow. I knew I can depend on the Pelican brain trust.

There ya go (jyl's post sleeve idea)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677135380.JPG

And some paint. IDK...

The gate might be toast to my eyes.

As a minimum unscrew it,
set flat in driveway,
wood bleach/cleaner it and let soak in,
power wash, let dry a week or two,
unscrew, bar clamp it back to square, You can 'handshake' these to any length
screw back together with new hardware (stuff rotten holes with toothpicks),
soak with good stain ~ cherry colored two coats would be a guess but always err on the light side
add corner brackets https://www.strongtie.com/solutions Simpson now makes nice thick black pieces

Yeah, but the Simpson stuff is going to rust.

Use only SS for anything outdoors structural.

Corner braces are good but it will still sag over short period of time. If look isn't a huge concern, I have fixed my in law's big old swinging garage doors that been working fine for over 15 years with a couple pieces of plywood. This thing was built in the mid 20s. Square up your gate by squeezing the gate square with pipe clamps or by twisting a rope with t stick and a couple of screw eyes if you are cheap:D. Apply a 1 1/2' wide piece of 1/2' thick exterior plywood, glued and screwed (exterior wood glue. I use Franklin Titebond III with great result or urethane if you like to turn your fingers blacks for days) to both outer corners. Run plywood from top to bottom. Do it on the side that's less likely to be seen or the ugly side. You will get 10 years out of that in mild climates like Norcal easily. Notch around the hardware if necessary.

All great stuff but I thik Can'tdrive just want the gate to work without much fuss.

I'd like to see what it looks like as well.

If I really had to get that post out, I'd probably sink some lag bolts into it, and use a bottle jack on either side to try and jack it out.

I did something similar last year. The post was a 6 X 6 end post and not rotted. I attached an "L" shaped iron bracket to the post (a wood block might also work) with 3 long screws and used my garage floor jack sitting on a board to slowly lift it out straight up and out. I didn't think it would work but I didn't want to have to dig it out. If that post is typical it is it there at least 24". I had to reposition the jack several times as the angle of the arm changed with the changing height of the "L" shaped arm as it came out.

Agree with the others. Glue and screw the post to keep it solid, no need to dig it out. Lay out the gate and get it square. A diagonal cable with turnbuckle from the top hinge bolt can keep it that way and eliminate sag.

Sounds like a great excuse to use explosives, but probably more socially acceptable to repair the top portion and let the bottom go.

Winner! Tell WDF what he won!

I'd change those hinges if it were mine. Get some of the kind they use for chain link fences. Thru bolt them to the post and gates. Much easier to adjust the swing of the gates with them.

Turnbuckle is great idea. Some real gate hardware wouldn't hurt either...

https://www.vandykes.com/gate-hardware/c/505/

https://www.hingeandlatch.com/fieldgate.php

Here are pics of the gate and posts. Based on some of the advice here, I’ll reinforce the posts with glue and screws plus square up the gate. I’ll probably replace the 1x6s with 14 guage galvanized fence wire. That’ll lighten the gate, prevent further sagging and be able to withstand wind gusts we often get here.

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Like others have said, your posts look fine. Your gates are the problem.

Designed to sag and rack from day one.

If your posts are plumb, your gates are warped. As above, through bolt the posts to eliminate or contain further splitting. Add diagonal bracing to the gate halves. I would add wheels to the ends of the gates to carry the weight.
I would not use turnbuckles and cables to support the sagging of the gates as that might worsen the warping.
Maybe just rebuild the gates so they are not twisted.

Best
Les

I think look171 and his plywood fix are going to be the best way to go here. I think that's what I'd do. It'll eliminate the sag and the warp.

What does your level say?

Those gates need wheels for support..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677187709.jpg