Workbench Top Material?
 

Tapping the brain trust.

Any ideas on what material should be used for a garage workbench top?
Bench used for misc. small projects. I want to mount my vice on one corner. Size about 3'x6'.
Ideas out there:
- Formica covered counter top
- butcher block
- 2" x 6"s stacked together
- get Ikea reject counter top
- solid core door

-Thanks

I probably did it "wrong", but I just used (3) 2x8s butted together..... rock solid it is!

Most wood working types that want to build a more traditional top will glue a bunch of wood together with the cheapest option being southern yellow pine, and more traditional and expensive options being maple and other hardwoods.

I've seen plywood used. I'd recommend using multiple layers for heft/rigidity. I've also seen folks build a bench and then use MDF as the top. I think the pros are that it's very dimensionally stable and flat, and I think it's usually screwed down as a top layer over something else so that when it gets beat up, it can be easily replaced.

Butcherblock (edge grain) is great (essentially the traditional)

Jack O has a couple made from solid core doors.

3/4 ply, MDF or waferboard and a 3/16 or 1/4 " piece of HARD masonite as a sacrificial top.

I’d say it’s highly dependent on the support structure for the rest of the bench. I prefer the butcher block style. Hate the Formica style myself.

There are a bunch of posts on workbench stuff here.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/1077986-woodworking-carpentry-thread-2.html

Paul Sellers is the man. He's got videos about making more traditional and less traditional.
Plywood
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more traditional
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You want some heft to that bench if you are mounting a vise on it. Second the yellow pine (if you can get southern yellow pine. I cant readily in western New York - got mine in VA where my mom lives). Use 2x4s or 2x6s , but glue them face to face versus edge to edge (unless you use three layers with offset seams, then 2x12s). That will give you the mass you need. 2x6s usually tend to have better grain than 2x4s, you can glue 2-3 layers for the four legs. Add some 2x 8 to 2x 12 stringers to the for sides and you should be set! Popular Woodworking and Fine Woodworking magazines have plenty of designs, from simple to elaborate and you can find them online.

Thanks for the ideas to this point. Now watching the videos.

Here's mine. I searched and thought about it way too much. Finally done with 2x6s , and a big ole beam for vise mount. It's been working fine for a year or so, now http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680886725.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680886725.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680886725.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680886725.jpg

Bear Mountian Builds has videos and free plans for several projects

https://youtu.be/3SQlaoUbQDo

You need Ferrari F1 workshop spec.

Solid beech worktop protected by a 5mm clear flexible PVC sheet

PVC protects the wood, if fixed only at the back of the work top, the PVC can be peeled back so drawings can be kept in place protected from pasta/Lambrusco spillages, greasy finger prints or being ripped

Kept this idea for myself but you can have it for free, just don't tell anyone ;)

When I decided to make mine, I was looking around a H.D. At the time they had sheets of 1 1/8 inch flooring plywood in 4x8. You can imagine how heavy that was. I bought a sheet & cut it up for the work bench. Nothing can beat it. I haven't seen it at H.D. or anywhere else since. If I was building a work bench, I'd use two layers of 3/4 inch plywood probably glued together.

That's pretty cool. I could maybe see that at one end. You may not want to pound on something laying on the plexiglass sheet.

Polycarbonate then. :)

16ga galvanized. If you're a mechanic. 1/8th inch aluminum on my toolbox.

You are a few days late - 2 days ago HD had a workbench top on special for $115! It's back to $230 now though. Then get a sheet of stainless or galvanized and cover half - or all.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-72-in-Solid-Wood-Work-Surface-for-Ready-to-Assemble-6-ft-adjustable-height-workbench-G7200AS-US/206497844?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-10451-483420-&clickid=THd384Q6PxyNW4mwQuUciSWMUkATBNytrUfGXs 0

Some times you guys make me feel like I really missed out on a lot when it comes to making a work bench.

I got mine from a surplus sale at TRW when I worked there oh so many years ago.

Solid masonite top, which can be flipped over if/when it gets ratty enough to warrant it.

Full depth drawers on both sides (3ft deep), power strip and back board with top shelf all included.

I was a new home owner with a totally barren garage that had an old wobbly door for a top work bench which quickly was discarded.

I was really worried about how much it was going to cost me to build one.

My brother offered to pay for one as a house warming gift to me.

He gladly loaned me his El Camino to drag this home.

It cost all of $40 back in 1985.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680892944.JPG

lumber is expensive. but old office furniture is cheap on craigslist.

my last work bench i cut the top off something like this and put stronger legs on the thing. works fine.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680893307.jpg

Last time I made a workbench top, I used two layers of 1-1/8” plywood.

Here's my woodworking bench I made about 20 years ago. It took 3rd place in the woodworking show competition that year.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680895171.jpg

I envy you guys with space enough for a fixed workbench and bench vise. I’m making do with a Workmate 225 or sitting my a55 on the garage floor.

Solid core doors are tough to beat . Very strong and can be purchased used . My previous house I found on CL a guy selling a bunch of them . They came out of a police station being renovated . I bought one and ripped the length with my circular saw to get rid of the handle hole . The piece I cut off I used as a backsplash .

That turned out to be the most solid workbench I had ever used . Solid birch with a beautiful clear urethane finish . The couple that bought the house the husband told the realtor he loved that workbench 😁 .

Roger that. I have an email into my door people to see what they have. I'm thinking they don't make solid core doors like the they used to but maybe they do. IDK.

+1

I built mine out of 4x6s with 2x6 bracing for a solid base. I didn't try to make it pretty.
The top is 3/4 plywood with hard masonite on top and a piece of angle iron on the front edge. I usually keep a sheet of corrugated cardboard on the top to soak up spills.
I figure it's one of those tools I'm going to beat the hell out of so making it stout was the priority. For the vice I designed it so I could lag 3 of the 4 mounting hole into the 4x6s.

I've had it for about 25 years. I like it.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680899563.jpg

Me thinks a lot of it has to do with what your small projects are.

I've found dirty car work (motor oil/rust), woodworking (shavings/sawdust), and metalworking (metal shavings)- don't mix. Somewhat different tops for all three.

As others said- solid base is key, really for all three. specially with the vice. You want to be able to beat the hell out of it.

Dirty stuff- Heavy duty lumber.
Woodworking- nice closed cell wood like MBA targa's bench. Looks like maple or something.
Fine stuff- electronics/model trains/ RC cars- I like white melamine tops. Easy to clean. Good contrast. Little screws have no where to hide.
Metal- I also like a super hard smoothsurface like steel, nothing that will catch or embed metal shavings.

So- basically, you'll need three benches.:D

Or maybe 3 tops on one bench!
Maybe you could have 3 tops that are hinged off of the top. That way you could have 3 tops on one bench.

That's what I did with a guitar bench a while back. I could replace the tops once they got trashed. I'd show pics, but the base was flimsy, so it was not good to cut wood on- simply not stable.

With a firm base though - that would be the way to go. The vice will need to be a kick ass section on a corner all to itself though.

The other thing I forgot to mention is if woodworking or fine surfaces are involved- to get a good mat to cover the bench with. something like-
edit- funny they even have a guitar being made on it.-

https://www.rockler.com/rockler-silicone-project-mat-xl-23-x-30?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source =google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&u tm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_r6hBhDdARIsAMIDhV_Dh r2Jbudbt_0DV4gG7Ifsq4tGVn7qLs0Sz-19rJZ3zJfUN00EVBIaAusHEALw_wcB

Rod Stewart said, "Every picture tells a story, don't it?"

Workbenches are only standard in factories. In your shop you build what works. I find that having old card tables, various carts, some sawhorses and stands, plus and old flush door, long tubes like EMT and 2 x 4's are very handy from project to project. My 2 permanent work benches see most of the work, but not all.

One 3/4" layer is not enough unless there plenty of bracing. My lathe sits on 2 laminated 3/4 sheets PLUS a continuous base.

Storage is paramount or your WB will soon be covered.

^ And that's a good thing I've also learned. At least in my case, whatever I store 'below' the bench, ultimately gets contaminated with whatever gets worked on 'on' the bench. Make sure any storage under the bench is sealed as well as possible.

Yep, Herr is correct. You know what our assembly benches are made of in our shop? Two layers of MDF and a Masonite or Formica top. The Formica or P-lam is actually kitchen counter tops. Ours are 4'x8' wide we buy from our vendor. Smaller tops can be purchased at Home Depot for cheap. Just remover the drip edge and edge it with a piece of hardwood. We like the p lam top because its easy to clean and it wouldn't scratch if something is slid across it and it glides smoothly. It gets ding up, unscrew from the bottom and replace with new.

Wew build big drawer boxes where we can access a tool quickly or put away something to get it out of the way with within reach. During assembly, three arms are needed.

It's amazing how many clamps one can suddenly need on the spot :D
BIG DEEP storage is key

The other thing is to build everything the same height. 4 smaller carts and benches can support a very large project.

I remember a luthier near where I lived, who also taught classes. His first project for apprentice type students was to build their own workbenches- all modular - for ease of flexibility and arrangement.

Recently I bought a bunch of metal tool cabinents from HF- and got them all the same size/ height/etc for the exact reason Zeke mentions. All same table height ,and drawer interchangeability if needed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680903828.jpg
I have a couple of 8' benches set up. One I topped with 1⅛ plywood that I drill into, beat on, have a big vise mounted to, etc. and I use this one more for metal work. Stainless and cleanable. Can't have too many flat surfaces, I'm always setting up work tables as well

This is a really good idea. I'm tall. My main bench is 36. Too tall. All my auxiliary benches and flat surfaces are a potpourri of heights; dealing with the hairy stuff means compromises. Always compromises.

Someday I'm moving to a polebarn. (I'll sleep in an old RV I find for free on Craigslist, for all I care.) All the flat surfaces inside the pole barn will be on wheels and a consistent height.

Love that grinder. Love that drill press (or pillar drill as the project Binky guys would say)

Our work benches are about 32" but the benches that we assemble stuff on are only about 26 tall.

All excellent info. Many online mention Masonite. It looks like there is also tempered Masonite.
@wifteen - I like your vice. I'll mount mine close to the edge like that also. I broke my current work table by pounding on the vice that's why I'm considering a new one.

I like this...easy to remove and replace just a section if needed. Good job!