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Counterclockwise?
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I have a Singer table that is missing some veneer on the top and I'd like to fix it and avoid replacing the veneer.
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Rod 1986 Carrera 2001 996TT A bunch of stuff with spark plugs |
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I see you
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 29,889
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I'd like to travel as much as you do Cap. IMO travel is one of the best educators available.
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Si non potes inimicum tuum vincere, habeas eum amicum and ride a big blue trike. "'Bipartisan' usually means that a larger-than-usual deception is being carried out." |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,690
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZdWh_oE-co However, this is replacing. To do veneer repair w/o any replacement amounts to filling, painting and faux finishing. I have some projects that come close, but none that brave. If my video says "veneer" in the title it does address many issues. |
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Motorsport Ninja Monkey
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It's not a cheap interest, had decades of a driving around in crap cars that I maintained myself, we maintain our house ourselves not eating out as often as we'd like and have gone without big spend materialistic items Hate to work out how much our interest has cost us but its definitely money we'll spent as experiencing new countries/cultures has given us so much pleasure over years
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Wer rastet, der rostet He who rests, rusts |
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I am a wet-behind-the-ears young grasshopper when it comes to this subject, but I have been using a tool that I haven't seen in use in any of the videos. I have used these wooden cuticle sticks when cleaning and detailing cars for years and I have found them very useful for cleaning out corners and scraping surfaces during finish restoration. They are a cheap and useful tool at $4 for a pack of 100 on Amazon. ![]()
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,690
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^^I have similar long sticks with a pencil point and they are great for reaching into tight spots with either glue or clock oil. If you want just one drop, this is how. Cleaning too as Patrick suggests.
That sewing case looks very dry. If no stripping (I agree) then it must be 'finished' rather than RE-finished. I start by lightly sanding to see what comes up. If it's real dirty you will know. Once lightly sanded and dust and oil free, apply some non -waxed shellac. Non waxed can be recoated w/o scuffing many times. There is a lot more to this, of course. I have half a bookshelf of finishing books only. Then there's YT, but before T+YT there were books. The old standard info is in books. They don't mention stuff like wipe-on poly. You won't find any of that here in my shop. |
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