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MBAtarga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Lawrenceville GA 30045
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We crate trained our dogs. Rex (a shepherd mix) - at "bedtime" - he would actually trot over and get INTO his crate for the night. No force required. It actually can calm them.

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Old 07-22-2023, 01:29 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Crate training also helps a lot with preparing a dog to travel in a portable kennel or travel bag. We have a small, soft-sided one that fits at our feet on the airplane, in the cab/uber, airport shuttle bus, etc. We used the same carryon as her crate when she was a puppy. We also it anytime we take the dog in the car...for her safety.
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Old 07-22-2023, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john70t View Post
A couple random training things:
-Humans always enter through doors first as The Alpha Pack Leader Decider.
Dogs do not rush doors but wait until it's okay.
It's a canine group psychology thing. But will save you a lot of angst later on trying to swim upstream. Every single day.

-When you leave, don't say goodbye or hype them up.
Just walk out the door like it's nothing.
They will remain comfortable in that same state of mind for the next 8 hours.
Dogs with separation anxiety will claw through walls and doors trying to get back to their owner.

-Leaving a stinky sock or shirt in the cage will keep your smell (you) with them for the rest of the day. Like you are still there.
Essential for when boarding a dog.

-Dogs are supposed to walk behind humans. Alpha Pack Leader goes first.
I personally ignore this because um Beagle brain.
They will wear themselves out sniffing everything, over running for miles, which the human boss will usually lose, and then human lose pack leader status.

-The pack needs a strong set of consistent rules.
If the pack doesn't have that, a beta dog is required to step up and fill that role.
And it doesn't want or know how to.
An insecure dog is nervous aggressive and more apt to bite.

-Don't ever let them continuously pull on the leash. Give a quick sharp jerk but only when needed.
With bigger dogs the 'finger clamping' style will actually prevent neck damage.

-Walk them around the perimeter about 50ft back and severely yank them from going further.
These are the boundaries of their established turf and the safe place for them to play.
Human and dog both establish and agree on it.
Actually the Human decides it. Actually collective Humans do. So the dog remains safe.

-Don't ever use your dog's name to correct or scold them.
A loud "HEY" works best.
Whistles. Shock collars. Whatever. They don't connect that to your bond together.
But never use their good boy name.

-When you feed him, walk him immediately.
That is natural.
Always fresh water every day. They are cold water snobs..
The use of "HEY" is something we are going to try for those situations where it is needed. Good idea for correcting behavior or accidents.
Old 07-22-2023, 04:33 PM
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The last dog that I owned was a springer spaniel...very smart dogs.
I have a walk out basement...so I installed a dog door in the basement door. That didn't solve the problem with the dog coming upstairs....so I added a pressure switch to the dog door approach.
The switch would sound a buzzer upstairs meaning she was wanting to come inside.
When the buzzer sounded...she was coming up the stairs to be let inside. She learned the procedure within a couple days...and knew that if she stood on the buzzer, someone would be there to greet her.
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Old 07-22-2023, 05:21 PM
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First off, one year old is waaay past when a dog should be housebroken…what you have is like a 12 year old kid who still craps in his pants. It’s going to take some effort to correct.

My experience is with young puppies that were extremely easy to train, that said, I like the kennel or crate idea until your dog figures it out and gets with the program. That’s really not a puppy. Good luck!
Old 07-22-2023, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Heap View Post
Meet Benjamin.

Ben Jamin'


rescue dog I've had about a week. Only a year old so we're working on Come, Sit, Stay, and walking on a leash.

Don't know if he's just marking his territory in the house, I walk him outside every couple hours.


Do you literally rub their nose in it and say BAD BOY, then what.......? I praise him very well when he does poop or pee outside.





He'll be using ol' Dave as a pillow before long !

Lots of good suggestions already... no "one size fits all dawgs" either... I've crate trained my pups for over 3 decades ... and they love their "dens" even after their "no poop zone door stays open.... expanded to a smaller area.... kitchen, etc. They learn...

My pups have varied in how much they used their crates.... like a "dawgy blanket" ... crates are removed when seldom used any more.

IT works and is not cruel.... I housebreak pups in a matter of weeks... Labs

As Speeder has said ....

This is different.... I would try a crate or maybe a smaller restricted area inside, establishing a routine ..... eat, outside, exercize, poop, etc. then inside with "freedom of the house" while you are around....

Back in the restricted area/crate (open door) ..
with rawhides, etc....

Won't take long ....

Lucky Dawgs ..... both of you!

Good luck
Old 07-23-2023, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chocaholic View Post
Crate training. Period.
This.
It's not cruel. Put a camera on your dog and watch what he does all day - he sleeps. You are just telling where he will sleep.

A week of this schedule should get him on track.

Eat & drink
Outside to poop/pee
In the crate immediately if he doesn't take care of business
Let him run the house for an hour if he does take care of business

Cycle through that every two hours if you can.

Sleeps in the crate all night.
Getting a dog used to being in a crate is the best thing you can do for him.

Never punish a dog for crapping in the house. It just doesn't work.

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Old 07-23-2023, 05:22 AM
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