Which scanner did you end up using?

You probably don't have to register the battery, but should. Car computers are too smart these days and adjust charging rates to match the age...of the battery.

Tiny data point here: Replaced original battery in wifey’s 09 128i about 3 yrs ago and skipped any programming but did keep my fingers crossed. No issues.

I bought a CGSULIT sc530 loaded with Mercedes software. They also had a special that they would add another manufacturer for free. I chose Porsche. Now I have to buy a new Porsche so I can use it!

Maybe. Some cars will lose there setting for the windows, sunroof, and other settings.

I read that the my wife's Macan uses the battery amp hours and and age to understand the charging rate needed for the alternator, and it monitors the charge state of the battery.

The Macan had automatic hill hold, so it never rolls backwards on a steep hill if you come to a stop. It uses the rear brake pads to apply the pressure to avoid rolling backwards. To change the pads it is required to have a OBD2 tool to tell the rear pads to retract so the can be changed.

I don't get it either. It seems like it may/should be something in much newer vehicles only, but even then, it doesn't make a lot of sense to me.... electrons.
He shoots. He SCORES! Yep, absolutely correct, now you have to buy a newer Porsche!
The battery went dead in my Boxster last year. I got it out and charged it up and put it back. The first couple of times that I started the car, I had a couple of weird things, windows acting funny (rolled them all of the way down and back up and that fixed the glitch), PASM (active shocks, not stability management) wouldn't set, and maybe one other thing, sport exhaust or something, I can't remember. But after starting and driving the car once or twice the problems went away. I think the battery has been replaced twice now, once by me and once while under CPO warranty.

My wife drives an '18 Outback with all of the bells and whistles. If the battery goes dead, the windows might have issues, the fix is to roll them up and down in a specific way. I replaced the battery in her car with no issues.

Zero points for you. Jags have had Bosch electronics since the 90's at least. I think Lucas got off the boat when fuel injection got on.

+1 My pal let me tinker with his 77 XJ12L more than I wanted and it had a fairly new Bosch licensed injection system. I don't remember if they called it Lucas or Jaguar but it was pretty much a D-Jetronic Bosch system, IIRC.

I also remember the Jag forums turning me on to a book written by a guy that laid out the two large handfuls of stuff you needed to do to the 12 cylinder to make it dependable.

So, what happens if you don't register the battery? If everything works, and there's no warning lights, I'd skip it.

I'm assuming that a bunch of stuff doesn't work if you don't register the battery, car goes into limp mode or something. But you know what Benny Hill say about ASSuME...

Not registering the battery ends up shortening battery life. Also allows for the charging voltages to be changed if you go from lead acid to AGM.

Everything will still work. You probably wont get the ultimate life out of the battery but with an AGM hoping five vs seven years and I'm just talking.

Put one in a 2017 Mini Countryman without registering and it worked fine and has been four months now. No phone call saying this or that does not work. I can still register it and want to but the customer had to scoot with the car.

Original battery? The 2016 Equinox in post 17 was original, so that was 7-8 years old.

I used my Autel MaxCheck MX808 to read the Macan's computer rating of the old battery. It was at 69% and summer was approaching.We just replaced it preemptively to avoid a problem. Same for my 911 battery. I was over 7 years old, and I was about to drive to Palm Springs and the desert heat of 110 degrees. I did not want to have battery issues.

I HATE battery issues. That always hit me a bad time and place. Of course "back in the old days" batteries gave lots of warnings, and the starter cranked slower and slower. Now they all seem to work fine one minute, and they are shorted and dead so bad a jump start will not work.

Just an update on my experience. I purchased a OEM battery from Mercedes, purchased through my friend's, shop cost me $360 which I don't think was that bad. Replaced the battery with my jumper connected to the front jumping location to preserve all of the memory. Everything went great and the car no longer displays the battery icon. My friend has 2 very expensive scanners a Snap-On and another brand, both loaded with tons of software. He tried both to register the battery but neither would communicate with the battery so he was unable to register it. Let us now how you make out with the scanner you ordered.