Any Tips for Cleaning Red Brick

[Tidybuoy]

I'm seeking any advice on cleaning red brick. I have a red brick walkway, front porch, and breezeway and it's in good condition but 75 years old and showing signs of wear. Any suggestions for cleaning to make look new again? I tried using an industrial floor scrubber with coarse pad, but the pad gets hung up in the process and snags.

[MBAtarga]

We've got a guy that comes around every spring and power washes the windows and porch. He was able to remove the black soot on the brick wall behind the grill as well. He removes stains from the concrete walkway as well.

[Zeke]

There are a lot of products used in cleaning old brownstones in NY and many other places. Limestone, marble, all kinds of exteriors including brick. I think a pretreatment and a soft PW is the answer. As for the actual product I can't say. Do you have mildew? That's one thing. What do you mean by wear? Dirt? Use detergent.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Muriatic acid at your local Ace Hardware

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6

Muriatic acid at your local Ace Hardware

That's exactly what he does not want to do. First, the dilution must be clearly understood. Then there's the timing and neutralization to be considered. Lastly, this will attack not only the brick and make it rough, but it will attack the mortar as well. This is not for amateurs.

Instead of asking on a car forum. maybe read one of hundreds of articles on the subject:
https://texasstonesealers.com/brick-cleaning-and-sealing-texas-surrounding/#:~:text=If%20your%20brick%20surfaces%20suffer,mat ter%20without%20harming%20the%20bricks.

The article cited also says to evaluate before jumping in.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Worked for me with no ill effects Milt. Sooooo...

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6

Worked for me with no ill effects Milt. Sooooo...

And it is used a lot on new brick and concrete to clean up mortar on the bricks and etch the concrete for painting. My point is that a little training is needed to work with MA. Obviously you deal with chemicals all the time. Put yourself in the average homeowner's shoes.

Anyway, for anyone reading, start with the weakest product or solution and work your way to what is needed. Starting with MA is a big step.

[Zeke]

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by Zeke

And it is used a lot on new brick and concrete to clean up mortar on the bricks and etch the concrete for painting. My point is that a little training is needed to work with MA. Obviously you deal with chemicals all the time. Put yourself in the average homeowner's shoes.

Anyaay, for anyone reading, start with the weakest product or solution and work your way to what is needed. Starting with MA is a big step.

I think you are correct Milt. I am constantly astounded at what people don't know or can't do.

[Tidybuoy]

I won't have any issues with mortar as this is brick that is in the ground with no joints. Probably on sand. The brick doesn't move but it is non mortared. I do have some issues with moss or mildew in one area and it seems like no matter how many times I treat it, the moss comes right back (this is only in winter wet conditions).

[john70t]

The grass on the sides can be dug up in squares, 6" dirt dug out, and then the grass replaced.
That might help with drainage and keeping staining dirt from washing onto it all the time.

You might be able to widen it and put pea gravel or colored stones on the sides (?)

No hard grout means power-washing will tear it up if not careful and patient.
Spray some wet-n-forget, and a week or two later some kind of soap on wet days which can marinade, and then use the lightest wand nozzle.

[look 171]

Garden sprayer with one cup of bleach to about a gallon of water. Let it soak and scrub with a stiff brush. That should get rid of moss but I like to just press the nuclear button and bring my guy out with his pressure washer.

[id10t]

Mom has her place power washed with a mild bleach mix every so often

Works fine

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by john70t

The grass on the sides can be dug up in squares, 6" dirt dug out, and then the grass replaced.
That might help with drainage and keeping staining dirt from washing onto it all the time.

You might be able to widen it and put pea gravel or colored stones on the sides (?)

No hard grout means power-washing will tear it up if not careful and patient.
Spray some wet-n-forget, and a week or two later some kind of soap on wet days which can marinade, and then use the lightest wand nozzle.

^^^This as well, Wet and Forget is a great product. It is activated by moisture but can be washed away during a rain. Shouldn't hurt the adjacent landscaping. Works great in the shadows where moss tends to be present most of the time.

No PW required. let it work and hose the dead stuff off in a couple days.

[RobFrost]

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

I won't have any issues with mortar as this is brick that is in the ground with no joints. Probably on sand. The brick doesn't move but it is non mortared. I do have some issues with moss or mildew in one area and it seems like no matter how many times I treat it, the moss comes right back (this is only in winter wet conditions).

Paving should always have a slope. Moss and mildew may be because of insufficient slope, resulting in water not running off.

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[Zeke]

Originally Posted by RobFrost

Paving should always have a slope. Moss and mildew may be because of insufficient slope, resulting in water not running off.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

You did say paving and IDK why "paving" is any different. Ever seen a north facing roof that is not in the desert? Any type. At least in m experience all pitches of roofs of all types can have mildew, moss and algae in shady and damp areas.

Hardscape is no different no matter what material. Bricks and such may have good run off but bricks are like a sponge. Simple maintenance can keep these areas clean.