Shed door difficult to close

rfuerst911sc · 04-24-2024, 06:14 AM

Hey guys last year I stick built an 7 x 11 shed under our raised back deck . It's on a concrete pad . Typical 2x4 wall construction with aspen board sheathing with metal roof and vinyl siding . No windows . The entry door is a metal pre hung 6 panel with standard weatherstripping .

The roof and walls have roofing felt under the metal and vinyl . Sill plates are caulked to the concrete . Since day one the entry door is hard to close . I figured the weatherstripping had to form/set . But it's been long enough that I don't think that's the cause .

The door/frame are plumb/level/square. Is it possible the space is too air tight ? It feels like the last 2-3 inches before closing the resistance starts . It is not the hinges . My thought is maybe I need to drill some 1 " holes above the door and install some round vents . Any other suggestions ?

Zeke · 10:06 AM

Sounds like hinge binding at the w/s on the hinge side. Take a dollar bill and insert it at various places around the door as you close and see when you can't easily pull it out. ribbon works too. And for the final analysis place a dab of soft clay on or near each hinge. It will smash down but should be at least 1/16th' when you go to peel it off.

You need free clearance at every point or the door is binding. How to shim hinges for better closing can be found on YT or I can walk you through it..

BTW, for the archives, half the time one only needs to snug up the hinge screws. This does not sound like your problem, but check them anyway.

wdfifteen · wdfifteen's Garage

No roof or soffit vents? It's going to get damn hot in there this summer.

rfuerst911sc · 04-24-2024, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

No roof or soffit vents? It's going to get damn hot in there this summer.

It is under the deck it's like a meat locker in there .

rfuerst911sc · 04-24-2024, 08:58 AM

Milt I will check the weatherstripping and hinges . Thanks

rfuerst911sc · 04-24-2024, 11:22 AM

Milt I used a paper cash register receipt and started at the top on the hinge side . And worked my way to the bottom. I was able to pull the receipt out with some resistance from top to bottom . It was maybe a little harder at the bottom 6 " but still pulled out with the door closed .

All hinge screws are tight . Screw holes in the hinges are countersunk so I don't see any adjustments. The hinges are also inset into the door edge and frame vs surface mount . I can see that a spacer under the hinge on the frame side would move the door closer to the latch side . But not sure that will help my problem .

This is not a problem for me as I can close the door . But my wife can't so I want to get this so she can . I will search YouTube and see what's out there . Thanks

oldE · 04-24-2024, 11:40 AM

I'm probably wrong (I'm used to it), but I would check for 'twist' in the hinge side stud. If it has warped either top or bottom, it might be blocking the edge of the door as you close it the last inch or two.

Best
Les

Zeke · 04-24-2024, 11:54 AM

Close the door to all but a slit of light coming in at the leading edge. Observe if the door edge meets the stop evenly. oldE is saying the frame is warped. Could be but doors warp more.

BTW, if the door hits top or bottom first and then has to be shoved in hard to latch, that is a problem. When faced with that, I remove stops and align them with how the door wants. Might not look pretty, but straightening out a twisted door takes all kinds of tricks with hardware and that's if you can stand the sight of the hardware. In the home itself, this door goes to the bin and a new flat door hung.

rfuerst911sc · 04-24-2024, 12:52 PM

I went in the shed with a flashlight and closed the door . Gap between the door and the frame on the hinge side is a solid and straight 1/8 inch . The latch side was tight so I removed some shims and opened up the gap to a consistent 1/8 . The door closes better but still not easy .

There are no " wear " marks on the door or the frame . The sill is not adjustable that I can tell . The door frame is straight/level/square based on 2 ' and 4 ' levels and various squares I have . The gap between the top of the door and the frame is about 3/16 and consistent . I will study it some more and see if I have an aha moment .

Zeke · 04-24-2024, 02:05 PM

Frames should be plumb (2 directions) and head and sill level. But reading bubbles is not as good as measuring the diagonals. There isn't much you can do with the frame anyway. The door fits the frame, not the other way around.

Look at that light gap on the leading edge, not the hinge edge. The door will be slightly ajar. You checked the top gap, I'm sure you've looked at the bottom gap. When it comes to door and gates, gravity wins every time. I had a friend that did a lot of gates and he hung them out of adjustment every time. They were high on the leading edge. 2 weeks and they settled to perfect.

porsche930dude · porsche930dude's Garage

To determine if its hinge bound watch the hinges as you close the door and see if they try to move to the latch side. Do you have any long screws in them through the jam and into the studs? If there is take some or all out and see what it does.

Zeke · 04-24-2024, 02:17 PM

Can't be hinge bound if he can pull a bill out all the way up and down the hinge side when closed. I use the clay in between the hinge leafs to see if there is a high screw.

rfuerst911sc · 04-24-2024, 02:52 PM

I used 3 1/2 " long screws all the way around . T25 if I remember correctly. The hinges do NOT flex while closing the door . I think I have to lay on the floor and see what's going on with the door bottom/weatherstripping and the sill plate . I think that may be all that's left to check . And even though it goes against the man code I may have to reread the install instructions

Zeke · 04-24-2024, 04:58 PM

Well, did you do the paper test at the bottom? I'm telling you that a bill will tell you more than you can see because when this dragging and binding is happening, it's most of the time hidden from you. I find contact in all kinds of places when adjusting a wonky door.

look 171 · 04-24-2024, 05:28 PM

Its hing bind from what you described but the jamb can also be twisted outward. Bevel both edges should solve your problem

A930Rocket · 04-24-2024, 06:48 PM

Take out the Q-Lon on the hinge side and try to close the door. Then Reinstall the hinge side Q-Lon and then try the latch side. Also, you can get different thickness weatherstripping, which might help.

rfuerst911sc · 04-25-2024, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeke

Well, did you do the paper test at the bottom? I'm telling you that a bill will tell you more than you can see because when this dragging and binding is happening, it's most of the time hidden from you. I find contact in all kinds of places when adjusting a wonky door.

Milt I did not do the paper test at the bottom but I will do that next .

rfuerst911sc · 04-25-2024, 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Take out the Q-Lon on the hinge side and try to close the door. Then Reinstall the hinge side Q-Lon and then try the latch side. Also, you can get different thickness weatherstripping, which might help.

What is Q-Lon ?

Zeke · 04-25-2024, 06:56 AM

Weatherstrip that tucks in a kerf.

Scott Douglas · Scott Douglas's Garage

The man door to our garage is tough to close. It worked fine until I put the redwood panel on the inside over the studs. It pushed the latch side of the frame out just enough to cause it to drag. I consider it a kind of burglar alarm since you can't open it without it making some noise.

Just thought I'd throw this in as I'm watching this thread and trying to learn a thing or two.