Riveting a countersunk hole

[Chocaholic]

Will be relining brake shoes in an old motorcycle (drum brakes). Once upon a time you could buy new shoes with linings attached. In this case, they sell pre-drilled linings with countersunk holes with soft copper rivets.

Here’s my question…the nozzle on my rivet gun is larger in diameter than the outer hole. So there’s no way to have the nozzle sit flush against the rivet head before pulling the trigger.

One thought is to insert the rivet, overlay a couple of small washers that fill the outer bore so there’s firm pressure against the washers and subsequently the rivet head. Will that work? Or am I overthinking it? It’s certainly possible that the compression of the rivet will draw the head firmly against the countersunk hole.

Thoughts?

[908/930]

Just checking the bottom of the recessed hole in the linings is actually flat? That would be called counterbored. If so what you are thinking with the washers or some sort of spacer to pull the rivet pin through should work.

[Tim Hancock]

Here is what I use for copper rivets on aircraft brake linings. I have never heard of using pop rivet style rivets on any kind of brake pads. They are always a solid type rivet with a hollow end that gets expanded out and driven back against the steel brake backing plate.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/brakelining824.php

[Chocaholic]

Thanks Tim. I suspect the QA required for aircraft is far more stringent. The vendor sells the linings and associated pop rivets under one part #.

[Chocaholic]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Just checking the bottom of the recessed hole in the linings is actually flat? That would be called counterbored. If so what you are thinking with the washers or some sort of spacer to pull the rivet pin through should work.

Sounds good…yes, they’re counterbored. Will give it a try.

[MBAtarga]

I agree with the washer/spacer approach.

[sc_rufctr]

Is it worth sacrificing one rivet?

I'd try with the standard tool as is.

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

Is it worth sacrificing one rivet?

I'd try with the standard tool as is.

There's no way the rivet will set fully flush based on Mike's description. He's got to have something as a spacer to fill the gap of the countersunk hole.

[sc_rufctr]

^^^ I'd have a go at it anyway... If it doesn't work then just drill it out and try something else (Use a small hammer to shape the rivet after install). Sacrificing one rivet is not a big deal.