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Spark arrestor screen is clean due to little use. I am tempted to just remove the fuel filter to test it. It has fresh fuel. I always put away small engines with fuel drained. Only fuel in a can is used. I think all fuels in CA has ethanol mixed into it. Will play with it some more later today.
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How old is the fuel in the can? If it has Evilnol ... I'd go batteries ;)
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Something that might help if you have the carb tool is turning the high side screw in and counting the turns to bottom out. Once you know how far from bottomed out it is back it all the way out and act like you're trying to start it. Sometimes if there's a little debris it will clear. Once you've done that, bottom it out and then back it out the number of turns you counted.
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Change the fuel lines. Alcohol in gas screws them up.
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^^^ Got it, thanks
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Ok, so I back off the high screw and it seems to run OK, a no more bogging at full throttle but not smooth like it was. After full throttle for about 3-4 min, it go hot, so hot that the plastic cover started to melt (pic where it say Echo). It smoked about 30 second of running it. I was thinking oil but that cover there got super hot and I can't touch it. Tips?
Smoke is coming from behind that cover. I have to open it up to see but its too hot now. Noticed the oil, it dripped that much jsut from 3-4 min of running with the chain disengaged. Oil is only at 15-20% to full. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1730335513.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1730335513.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1730335513.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1730335513.jpg |
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And while not doing any cutting? Just WOT for 3-4 minutes straight? Thanks! |
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You just burnt up the clutch. Probably melted the housing too thats why all the oil is leaking out. I got a brand new stihl at tthe curb somebody did that to. It took some doing to fix all the damage
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Full throttle with the chain brake on? And it got hot, lol. Don't do that.
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Lol, pretty sure it is a brake. Not sure what if any damage it would do, should be pretty easy to remove the cover and check on the clutch, pretty sure there is a bearing in there somewhere that could use some grease now. Is there an adjustment screw for chain oil delivery on that saw?
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Lucky it didn't catch fire. Yeah, that's a chain brake-designed so if saw kicks back there's a chance the hand guard gets hit and it stop the chain before it opens up your face and forehead. Ooops.
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Glad I learned something at someone else's expense....
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Now you know it's not the carb (anymore)
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If you take the side cover off, there's a metal band that will engage on the flywheel when the brake is engaged. Running the saw with the metal band engaged on the metal wheel is what did the melting from the friction creating heat. I had to replace one many years ago, so it may be repairable, unless it will still work. |
The "metal wheel" that that brake band contracts around is the centrifugal clutch drum. The cog that drives the chain is usually a permanent part of the drum on small saws. It is a wear item, so it often gets replaced and ought to be readily available. The clutch shoes inside the drum might be roasted from the heat. The heat may also have roasted a rubber oil line for the chain oiler, and that might be the source of the oil. Check YouTube University for a video on how to change the clutch on that saw.
Repairing it CAN be a DIY project, but there are so many items that could have been damaged that I would turn it over to someone with experience with these saws. |
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