Factory versus OEM/non-OEM parts

[A930Rocket]

On rocket girls 2010 Tahoe, the door latch cable in the driver‘s door broke. I called the local dealer and they wanted $260 for the new cable, because it included a new latch mechanism. Online, the same part from Tasca Chevy was $180. The dealer could get the part in three days and parts from Tasca, usually take five days.

I could not find the part locally, so I bought a cable only for $13 off Amazon, and got it in two days. It probably took me two hours total to swap it out.

What is your experience with factory versus OEM/non-OEM parts?

[pwd72s]

I like your cable solution. Your example points out that "it depends". Depends on how critical for safety the part is, whether or not you consider the part an improvement over OEM, and other factors. On the latch itself, I'd probably opt for OEM, worried that the replacement if made in China may not be as strong as the OEM latch in a collision....that sort of thing.

[A930Rocket]

Yeah, there are certain parts that need to be factory or OEM. The latch is a good example.

On my BMW E46, there are certain parts, especially the cooling system, that I went with factory parts. Too many important parts to be using parts made with Chineseium.

[Tobra]

You want OEM starter for aHonda, can tell you that

[sc_rufctr]

I prefer OEM. Things are just easier with original parts.

[MBAtarga]

Years back my daughter's Honda Accord was throwing a code - maybe P201? It pointed to the cat converter being the culprit. I bought a "drop-in replacement" from the FLAPs. Not only did it barely fit into position, the heat shield on the cat was on the wrong side as was the O2 sensor bung. I managed to finagle it into place but I was really tempted to return it. The replacement did end up clearing the code and it was able to pass the emissions test.

[Baz]

If it's a time consuming and PITA repair...I would choose OEM, if it's not too crazy priced.

Example is the Silverado fuel pump. Initially I used some aftermarket ones that only lasted a few years. Last time I finally got smart and went AC Delco.....and that sucker is going on 10 years now.

[masraum]

I've had aftermarket parts that were junk. I've also had aftermarket parts that were as good or better than original. You never know until you have the party in your hand or sometimes until time installed it and it has failed. I've purchased stuff that was supposed to be OEM that definitely did not seem like the original part.

[RANDY P]

I generally don't do stock imitation parts. If it's for a stock driver or whatever, available as OE I buy OE

Now, if you talk hard engine internals valvetrain or aftermarket heads- well that's a different story- IMHO most aftermarket versions of non OE or OE supplier are generally jank.

I will NEVER buy an aftermarket fuel pump or ignition parts/dizzy. I only buy OE or in the case of a hot rod- a Walbro.

rjp

[unclebilly]

The stock oem stuff broke. That’s why it’s being replaced. Putting the same garbage back in, expecting a better result is crazy.

[wdfifteen]

$40 Tundra tail light unit from internet seller fits and works perfectly. Dealer wanted $160 for one. Both were supposed to be OEM.

[speeder]

As someone who buys a lot of auto parts, there is no "one size fits all" answer to parts sources. If you can get OEM or dealer parts for a reasonable price, (even if it's more than non-OEM), by all means do it. For the Chevy door cable mentioned, he could replace it 10 times with the Amazon one and still be ahead, money-wise plus the Amazon one probably has a warranty and new ones would be free.

Uncle Billy has a point as well about OEM parts being junk in a lot of cases, so what difference does it make to replace it with other junk if it's cheaper?

For my old Mercedes-Benz cars, I only use OEM or dealer parts, never Chinese or Autozone stuff. I needed to replace a door striker on my 1985 W123 coupe last week and pulled one off of a parts car rather than buy a new junk aftermarket part. The beauty of MB, (and maybe other cars), is that the back door parts from a 4-door car are exactly the same as the front for that side; IOW, a LH rear interior handle/door latch/striker/etc. is the same and rear doors get used 1% as often as drivers doors, so the 40 year old back door parts are like new on a parts car and can replace the worn parts on the front doors. Same with door straps, the part that holds the door partially or completely open are the same all the way around on many cars.

For maintenance items like filters, brake pads or gaskets and brake hoses, it's original only, no exceptions. I use only AC/Delco filters on my 2022 Chevy and only OEM filters on everything else. I just bought Motorcraft pads F/R for my F-250, not too expensive if you buy them online.

[cockerpunk]

anytime you are dealing with a dealership you are getting ripped off.

mazdas are nice because being a racer for mazda means we get full access and dealer pricing on OEM parts. super nice perk.

but there is plenty of stuff i still just buy on ********.

[DavidI]

My general rule has to do with the amount of labor it takes to replace the part. If the part is easy to access and can be changed out relatively painlessly, I'll replace the part with aftermarket. If the job requires the removal of many parts to access it, I'll spend the money and purchase an OEM so I don't have to do the job twice.

Rock on, David

[speeder]

For things like shifter bushings or other bushings, you need to look at how well the original factory part lasted. In some cases, the OEM was absolute crap. When I replaced the shifter bushings on my FWD VW Jetta, I could not have possibly found worse parts than the OEM if I bought them in a cave in Afghanistan. The ones from Ebay that smelled like dim sum were unquestionably equal or better.

For suspension bushings that need to be pressed in and require a lot of expensive labor, you want to buy the absolute best parts available. Depending on the vehicle, this might be dealer only or Lemforter, (German OEM), etc...

[flipper35]

The OEM coil packs on our F150 were junk. All 8 have failed and been replaced with aftermarket at this point.

[javadog]

I buy from the dealer network almost exclusively. You can buy from dealers for a typical discount of 30-35%. I know I'm getting the best quality that's available. "OEM" and" OEM supplier" are often built by different companies in different factories. You used to be able to find the good stuff sold without the dealer packaging for less but it's a crap shoot now. More often than not, it's of lesser quality.

You can even find counterfeit parts in the correct packaging. I found that out 10-15 years ago when I bought a Bosch purge solenoid that looked right, came in the right package but was made in a ****hole (China?) and had no working parts in it. Screw that.

For things like bearings and seals, I'll usually buy those through a bearing house, after first learning the country of manufacture.

[911 Rod]

What irks me is when you are sold a part as OEM and it's really a knock off that they marked up 500%.

[KNS]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

What irks me is when you are sold a part as OEM and it's really a knock off that they marked up 500%.

Or, you're looking at the various options, see "OEM", with a German flag/symbol from a well known German supplier and the part arrives and it's made in China.

[speeder]

I was shocked when I bought some Febi strut mounts for some car last year and they were made in Germany. Febi is usually not my first choice.