Plumbing Help - Installing a wall mounted kitchen faucet

[Tidybuoy]

I am struggling to find a diagram for plumbing a wall-mounted kitchen faucet.

I'm remodeling an old kitchen, and I want to install a wall mounted kitchen faucet. My issue is that I cannot find any plumbing diagrams for this setup. With a regular sink mounted faucet, the faucet usually has supply lines that hang down to the shut-off valves. But I'm thinking that a wall mounted faucet will have regular 1/2" pipe all the way to the faucet. How does one install the shut-off valves with also having a port for the dishwasher hookup.

I have time to think this thru - I'm in my due-diligence phase now.

Below is the mess I am starting with. Keep in mind, this is a 95-year-old house, so nothing is setup using modern standards.

Demolition Started:


Plumbing & Electrical Mess:

[A930Rocket]

Have you picked out what pot filler you are going to use? That would dictate how you would plumb it.

The last one we had, used an articulating arm, that had a valve to open and close. The only thing needed in the wall was the pipe and elbow secured to a 2X.

[908/930]

Can you access where these pipes thread into by the floor? I think that if you want shutoff valve on that cold line you will need to unthread it out and install a shorter one, like the hot is done. After the valve you could change to copper likely easier to work with. And after the valve you could install a NPT T and feed the dishwasher and up to the faucet. The wall mount faucet I have seen have an adaptor that threads into a mounted elbow in the wall and then the faucet has a union to thread to the adaptor.


I'm not a plumber but if it was me I would want to change over to copper for the entire line if possible, I don't know your codes. The only section of steel pipe I have seen was in out last house under a tile floor the the pipe was 1/2 but the hole through the inside was about 1/8" due to rust.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Have you picked out what pot filler you are going to use? That would dictate how you would plumb it.

The last one we had, used an articulating arm, that had a valve to open and close. The only thing needed in the wall was the pipe and elbow secured to a 2X.

I think he means something like this.

[Tidybuoy]

Originally Posted by masraum

I think he means something like this.

Exactly. This is for a sink faucet, not a pot filler.

[Tidybuoy]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Can you access where these pipes thread into by the floor?

=

Yes. I'm replacing several of the 1x6 boards that go under the subfloor. And, while the old boards are pulled, I have complete access to under the kitchen. I will be replacing all of the electrical as well as converting to copper. I've done that before and this is the time to do it while the kitchen is torn apart.

[look 171]

One can be had under the kitchen. Normally there's no angle stops or shut offs for wall mount faucet. Its just as easy to shut off the main water supply to the house for future repairs. Plumb it with hard lines and secure it well to the studs.

[wilnj]

I would come up through the floor in the base cabinet and install two ball valves in the base cabinet, plus your dishwasher feed then have the pipes enter the wall and turn up to the faucet.

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by wilnj

I would come up through the floor in the base cabinet and install two ball valves in the base cabinet, plus your dishwasher feed then have the pipes enter the wall and turn up to the faucet.

That's what I do. And the good thing about the ball valves is you can regulate the water flow to equalize the hot and cold, plus slow down the flow so it doesn't blast off the bottom of the kitchen sink.

I also use flexi hose/pipes from the ball valves to the faucet to make fitting things up easier.

[look 171]

Coming out of the bottom of the cabinet look like hell IMO of course. It looks like a cheap re-pipe job.

If a quality pot filler is used, there is no need to ever shut the water to it with the exception of changing out a bad cartridge. That can all be accessible with a twist of a simple wrench. Pull the cartridge and be back in business in 1/2 hour.

One more thing I should mention is that we never plumb the dish washer off the same shut off. We always run tandem angle stops neither off the same supply pipe or tee off the supply line under house and come up with an angle stop behind the dish washer. Much cleaner look and when dishwasher comes on, it will not rob water or reduce flow from faucet.

[908/930]

Can keep the pipes in the wall with valves and use an inspection cover. I like having valves nearby. As Look 171 mentioned securing the brass drop ear elbows properly is very important, most I have seen get loose over time. Possibly mount a 2x10 firmly between the studs and fasten elbows to that?

[look 171]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Can keep the pipes in the wall with valves and use an inspection cover. I like having valves nearby. As Look 171 mentioned securing the brass drop ear elbows properly is very important, most I have seen get loose over time. Possibly mount a 2x10 firmly between the studs and fasten elbows to that?

Use 1/2" brass pipe instead of copper. They are much more robust.