Duratech stubby ratchet, flex head wrench from Amazon?
 

I need a 19 mm to get the PCV valve in my wife's van. Who the hell put an item like that in the back of the motor under the intake. Nothing worked but a cut up left hand. Defeated and I refuse to remove the intake. So off to Autozone I go searching for a stubby. Nothing. Anyone use Duratech wrench from Amazon? Way I see it, it will be used on the very special occasions and not too much torque is needed so a cheaper wrench wet maybe worth buying? 55 bucks compared to Gearwrench for 140. Thoughts, tips?

I have Gearwrench stubby ratchet wrenches but not flex heads. They’re good quality. They come in handy…when needed.

I’d get the Duratech’s, or maybe HF has them, since you’ll rarely use them.

I have no help on your situation, but I can sympathize. On my El Camino the high pressure side powering steering connection is down deep in the engine bay. I tried every possible tool I had and could not get them on the fitting. It is a 18 mm fitting, yep 18 mm. I did not even own a 18 mm wrench of any sort.

I had to chase down a Snap On truck and buy a 18mm line wrench crow foot. The big box stores don't even have 18 mm, or they didn't when I was looking. The one crow foot line wrench is by far the least used tool I have. Only once to remove the old hose and once to tighten up the new hose.

I've used the 3/8 Pittsburg stubby for years. 13 bucks for a set of 3 ratchets. It's a better ratchet than any modern Craftsman, but quality may have suffered in the years since I bought mine. HF also sells the 3/8 Icon brand premium stub for about 30 bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-head-stubby-ratchet-set-3-piece-70170.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757771299.jpg

I bought a duratech ratchet to make a parking lot repair on my wife’s cayenne in Dillon, MT.

It’s great quality for the money.

I had the Harbor Freight ones and they were junk...they wouldn't stay in gear. Pissed me off every time I tried to use them as they slipped every time I needed them to tighten.

Here's one I was thinking of buying, but not now...anyway, unique 3/8" drive, folding flex head offset stubby. Scroll d0own the linked page to get the full description.

https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-drive-folding-quick-release-ratchet-srh35104

I think look is talking about these, a stubby flex head ratcheting wrench, not a flex head ratchet.

Amazon has Gearwrench sizes (1) each 3/8 in 7/16 in 1/2 in 9/16 in 5/8 in 11/16 in 3/4 in 10mm 11mm 12mm 13mm 14mm 15mm 18mm for ~$55. https://a.co/d/3rBlzRP


Amazon has Duratech for $56 sizes 8-19 https://a.co/d/jaz1INO


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757791657.jpg

Yep, those are the Duratech I am talking about. For the amount of time I use a tool, it should be good enough plus, its a shorty so it get use even less. I think Grarwrench maybe a little better in quality? Must have flex head. My 1/4" drive flex head ratchet had saved my bacon many times. Modern cars are so tight, any shorty tool is almost a must to get at some of the simple things like a PVC valve. I want to find that engineer, his extended family and have a stern heart to heart with him before I kill them.:D

Or..this for $21, make it a stubby?

https://www.tekton.com/19-mm-flex-head-12-point-ratcheting-combination-wrench-wrc26419

He can buy the whole set, including a 19, of stubby for $55

https://a.co/d/jaz1INO

Added to cart, thank you!

Editorial: I'm at a place where if $50 saves me 20+ minutes and a few curse words, it's money well spent. Any use of the tool after that is gravy.

^^^ Ha! I put it in my cart yesterday and almost pulled the trigger myself. I’ve got several tools, that I bought over the years, for just in case and have used them. I’m a tool addict.

Holy Carp! THat's REALLY STUBBY! But when you need stubby, you need STUBBY!

I've had a set of Gearwrench flex heads for probably 20+ years now. The set that I have is a quality set of tools. But sure, I can see not wanting to spend that much money for a stubby set since those are likely to get a lot less use. And these days, there are a lot of budget brands that are reasonably decent especially for things that won't get heavy use.

Some of the modern packaging in cars is insane, like the cars that have the starter under the intake.

Forget about your corded tools, Shuan. Get some new battery ones. It will save you more then 10 min daily so added up, that's huge. When I actual do work such as changing wife's PVC valve, with the few things that must be removed, I had sockets sets with few different size on different ratchet, power ratchet, and my small impact drill and an electric drill chucked to a 10 mm socket. The cowl needed to be removed. Do I really need all that, hell no, but it sure made it go on and off in no time.

Stubby set came in last night. Needed a 19 mm. Bend my wrist, leaned over and cranked it out in about 2 min. One click at a time. Flex head saved my ass. No wonder my wrench told me that he charges 85 bucks to pull it out. He even suggested that I do it myself. Total work time, including getting the cowl and wipers out, 15 min. I was out there kicking my teeth in cussing for 15 while getting cut up the other day. You are correct Steve, when you need a stubby, you need a stubby.

I used to have one of these, friend gave it to me, I love it and used a lot for a a few years. Loaned it to another friend and it disappeared.

I also like my little Milwaukee M12 driver and drill kit. I use the drill a lot, driver a little. That 1/2 you posted, I would like one of those.

One of things I have in my head when it comes to hard use activities like a grinder or doing a lot of serious drilling like when I built my car rack. Is the tool, at full charge, the same power as corded tool. Same with battery at half power?

There are plenty of times I need to do something quick and there a cord is a pain. But most times I am using a tool needing full power throughout the day.

I agree over time battery tools save time and therefor money. It's the power level that mostly kept me back. The M12 3/8 driver, as you can see is well used, is the perfect tool for pulling threaded inserts back into 911 door frames after anodizing. But if the battery is at 50%, it's a pain.

So I do like battery tools but my concern has always been about continuous full power. Multiple batteries I guess being the answer but is a battery powered grinder at full battery just as powerful as corded?

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Given my response above this morning, it was prophetic, and devastating. I have a Milwaukee M12 caulk gun. Squeezing rubber seal adhesive into a door frame to glue in a seal is very hard. You go slow and your hand is crippled for an hour after but it works. So I tried the Milwaukee with only 3 dots of power. It worked across the top (24 inches or so) but ran out of steam. I should have put it down but tried to spurt out drops that I could spread with a stir stick. Did not work. So now it's charging and will have to finish both doors tomorrow.

I've got 2 M12 2Ah batteries. Earlier this summer, HD had M12 4Ah batteries on sale 2x for $100 and I almost pulled the trigger. Now they want $130 for 2x 3Ah batteries. I'm kicking myself...