Anyone interested in making a super strong saw fence, let me know. I can provide simple drawings or walk you through it. One can be had for under 100 bucks or have some junk metal hanging around. Need a drill and angle grinder of jig saw for cutting up simple metal.

I just thought it was neat how he made it. More to the point, there are several on this thread complaining about a poor fence. How tough can it be for an engineer to design a quality fence for even the lowest price table saw?

I have no dog in this, I will never own a table saw, I'm not good with wood though really appreciate those that are.

I've looked at the Delta Unisaw and the Craftsman Professional, but I don't want something that can't be moved. I have to look at what voltage they are as well. Some are 110 others 220v. If I can put one of the 110 models on a rolling base, I wouldn't mind having one of those. They're a solid built saw. If it can be placed on a moveable base, I could add Grizzly and Jet to the mix. One thing I'm trying to avoid is belt driven where the motor mounts off the back of the saw.

All of those things you just listed will keep you from "upping your game."

They are features of cabinets saws. You either want a big bad cabinet saw and are willing to accommodate it, or you're not. They aren't for everybody.

I don't need it now, but it would be great if you put it out there. Eventually I'll or someone will need one.

There are lots of good off-the-shelf fence systems for the better saws. Easy to just buy one and install it.

The thing I'm running into on FB MP is people having saws that are a couple years old, that they paid $15-$1600 for and wanting to get $1000 or a bit more. I'm generally a "half of new" guy when it comes to buying something used. If I'm spending $1000, I might as well get something new the way I see it.

The safety of portable saws is a really good point. I would never try to rip heavy sheet goods alone on the one I have, it’s way to prone to rocking or tipping. You need a large solid table, a fence that locks into place square and won’t move when you bang it, and a very solid base.

For a grand, you can buy an older, made-in-America cabinet saw that's built like a tank and will last forever, given reasonable care.

They are simple, well-made and reliable.

I would not buy any new, made-elsewhere equipment over a used American-made one from when we made the best equipment in the world.

Yeah, around here, the folks selling old used table saws either want 90% of retail for something that's 10-30 years old, or if they are selling it for $100-300, then it's a saw that looks like it's been living in the woods for the last 40 years, and last ran 20 years before that.

When I moved to Dallas 5 years ago, I sold my one-owner, US-made Powermatic cabinet saw in pristine condition for less than a grand. I'd love to have gotten more, I tried.

These things are out there.

That's the other problem I'm having. For what they're asking for essentially a jobsite saw, I can get a serious saw. The thing I like about the Delta is, it can be portable and still has the ability to cut wider pieces with a reasonably solid fence system.

I’ve never found a need for a portable tablesaw.

I had to use a job site saw, one time, for a very small project at my sisters house. Never again.

You can use a Skil saw or a track saw for occasionally ripping sheet goods. If I ever need anything else, I’ll just get my favorite cabinet guy to rip it for me and go pick it up.

Since you seem to have an ongoing remodeling project at your house, find a place to set up a cabinet saw and be done with it.

If you ever spend even five minutes working in a cabinet shop or a carpentry shop, or just walking around one and spectating, you’ll understand where I’m coming from.

Not sure what happened to my earlier response but I would greatly enjoy plans or a tutorial on a better fence. TIA.

I had a Delta Unisaw, bought a specific wheeled frame to make it mobile. Had a Biesemeyer fence. 3hp 230V can cut through 3" oak like butter.

Group buy! (sorta kinda)

My biggest issue is run-in and run-out.

Should you decide on a contractor saw with the motor hanging off the back, get yourself a link belt and toss the factory belt. With a factory's typical v belt, the link or the belt's joint causes a slight hump over the pulley causing a bit more vibration whereas the link belt eliminates the vibration possibility. If you get a 120V saw (most contractor's saw has the capability to be wired to 240) or any of the saws, get a quality think kerf blade with blade stabilizer. Keeps the thin blade very true without bogging down.

Sure, I will see about drawing something up when I have time in the next few days. Its very simple to make if you have a basic understanding how a table saw fence works.

This is so damn true. I will never make another fence again. My time is worth so much more but this is for someone who like to play or fab up things.

If you are really on the budget, but an old rusted saw POS and do some clean up on it, especially if you buy one without a fence. Original fence is maybe beat to pulp already. 10" is the most common but get one with a good motor. Those motors are usually Baldor, and they last a very long time but are very specific to the saw frame with the correct holes drilled to fit. Its a TEFC, totally enclosed fan cool at a specific RPM, somewhere around 3400 if I remember. Change out the belts (three of them, and no link belt like I mentioned on the other thread) and clean up the worm gears and put that thing to work. Shaft bearing maybe bad but not very likely only because they are well built. There's nothing to them and they are heavy duty saws, both the Unisaw or model 66 even the Candian made General.