If the fence that comes with your tablesaw is a bit flimsy you can glamp the other end with a C-clamp.

I'm going to pick up a Delta 36-725. I plan to get the 52" fence rail kit for it. For now it'll cut everything I want to cut with it, and will do it better than the cheap saw I've been using.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761131411.jpg

I built my kitchen cabinets with a used Delta saw like the original post. It was plenty for me. The biggest recommendation I have is to use Forrest Blades. They're crazy expensive but you almost don't have to sand the cut edge. And they recondition them so you don't have to keep buying new ones but I did my whole kitchen on the first blade I bought without even getting it reconditioned.

I agree. But first the arbor needs to checked out. I fear used table saws until I can completely disassemble them, go through the bearings and indicate the arbor.

You can see in the pic that the top is a bit rusty. I had to put a bit of work into cleaning the cast top. I bought some Minwax Paste Finishing Wax and applied after I got things cleaned up. I checked to make sure the blade was square to the table and that the fence was squared as well. I adjusted the fence guides because the PO didn't have them adjusted properly and the fence was rubbing the table. In hindsight, I should have probably bought one of the saws from one of the sellers who did woodworking. Probably would have saved me some time in adjusting things. I'm planning to buy some 2" square tubing to make a solid 72" fence guide but that won't be until afterI'm done with my porch project. After seeing what the fence guide is, I decided I could buy the steel and drill the holes to mount it for a lot less than buying the Delta guide kit.

Bad bearings are one thing but there's an easy way to check runout on the arbor. Take a pen and stick it on the center of the arbor or shaft. Most of them have a center point on it. Do it with the saw on and of course NO blade. You can feel easily if the arbor is out or even if bearings are bad.

72". Why so big? Most times, you can get by with 52 to 54". Anything larger, it can be cut with a skillsaw and a cross cutting guide or a Tracksaw. How often do you cut pieces more then 60" long?

I just think it'll be handy. I think at 72, using the fence on the left, I'll be able to support an 8' sheet and cut pieces to whatever size I want.

When I built our house, I was using a little Craftsman saw. My kitchen and bathroom cabinets aren't fancy, but they have served for 41 years. I upgraded 20 years (or so) ago with a Rockwell which came out of a commercial shop. They were making room for another 220 v unit. It struggles a bit with long rips in hardwood or thick material, but it has extensions which allow me to cut a full sheet of ply when I have to. Usually though, if a full sheet needs to be ripped, I will use a fence and skill saw.

Take note, that will need to be built fairly precisely...

Have fun.

Yep! Shouldn't be that difficult. It'll just be a bit time consuming with layout. I have a shorter template to work with.

Meanwhile, a pic of the saw table all clean and looking like it should. I've used it a few times today and I'm really liking it so far!



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761239597.jpg

Use a Skilsaw and guide, its much safer especially having to muscle that large piece of heavy plywood onto the saw.

Are you talking aobut clamping the tubing to make the 72" cut? There's a lot to fight there. The friction and weight would be your two major issue if cutting all by yourself. If you aren't use to doing it by yourself, use a Skilsaw. Its easier and much more accurate.

I'm planning to buy some 2x2 box steel and make the fence guide rail solid to 72" with drop down legs to support. Then I'll mount a piece of melamine for easy sliding of whatever I'm cutting. I don't plan to cut more than 1/2" 4x8 sheets so not much strain there.