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Anyone have a cheap substitute for Sonotube concrete forms?
I'm building a simple deck and I need to install some posts/footings. I'm wondering if there is a cheap alternative to using sonotube. I suppose I could use pre-fab concrete footings but I thought I would ask. I need to set approximately 8 posts.
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how deep is each post in the ground? you cant pour "neat" against the soil? cave ins?
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16" seems big.
Are you mixing or pouring all at once? You could for the top with screws and move the form from hole to hole |
Furnace pipe. You need to reinforce it by wrapping some wire around it. It works, and our county inspector thought it was genius.
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I've just used poured concrete footings (into dug holes) with Simpson Strong-tie PBS ZMAX bases for decks, equipment shelters, etc.
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About a million years ago I bought a 16’ retractable awning that was delivered to my driveway in a very heavy-duty cardboard tube which I cut up into manageable pieces, stacked them up in the garage attic whilst thinking some day I’ll use these for something.
See the steel square thread for reference. |
How deep do you need to go for code? How much weight are you supporting?
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Check with local carpet sales stores. They always have cardboard tubing they’re trying to get rid of for free. Seen 8”-12” diameter rolls.
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How big is the deck and are you going to ever add a porch or something on top of it later? How deep are you going to dig your footers?
Don’t set your post in the concrete and have the top of the footerat a slight angle, so it sheds water. Quote:
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We also used to dry stack hollow concrete block, backfill and then fill the cores with concrete.
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Sonotube comes in three sizes of the same size, or at least that's how Menards version and Sakrete version work. I used the size closest to the hole I punched with an auger and slid it down into the hole setting the top at grade then put dirt around the exposed part. So one 48" tube would do two forms.
IDK why, but the rule of thumb seems to be about 3x the post size so a 4" post, 12" hole... The cheap method is to auger the hole and square wood frame to grade. |
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My plan is to build a 10-12' wide deck that transitions to a single step down to the patio but also be raised to the level of the entrance. This deck will extend over the dirt portion of the yard and half will be over an existing concrete patio & step. I'm converting the entire yard to patio with planter bed edges - it's a very small yard 20x50'. No photos today but I'll take some tonight. |
The area I'm talking about. A small deck to cover the concrete step and be about 12'wide with an addition wood step down to the yard. The deck will be about 10" over the concrete step so that it is even to the entrance to the house. Not the best picture but it's what I have here at work.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761759979.jpg |
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Use a string line and a tape to get all the forms in the right place. Small rebar cage in each hole, use a vibrator when you pour it. Anchor bolts as needed, etc. Try to clean the holes out well when you drill them. |
Since its a rental and all I guess you will do it right with a permit and such? They will advise you what you will need. In my area the inspector comes out to inspect your holes before filling them. And im sure they will tell you what you can and cant do
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5 gallon paint type buckets? cut the bottom out, use screws with steel concrete form stakes. I was considering this for a couple of the pier/pads for my boat cover bases but just went ahead and formed them with 2x6 & 8.
You can cut them off in halves and get them off easy after spraying some WD-40 on the buckets prior to pouring them. A 4" grinder with an abrasive disk. |
My recent efforts.
Contrary to optics they are all at a level grade set by a transit and strings. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761784310.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761784310.jpg |
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