Looking for BuildDirect advice/experience

[JavaBrewer]

I have found a source (BuildDirect) for hardwood floors that easily beats the nearest local & online rival by $4 sq/ft. My internet searches for ratings, performance, and quality have come up dry. There's no way I'm the only DIY to find these folks. Has anyone here done business with these folks or know someone who has? I've ordered samples of their handscraped wood floor and expect them by the end of the week. I am a skeptic - but need to investigate. I'm planning on doing 1350 sq/ft of hardwood this year and even a couple $ savings per sq/ft adds up quick. This will be a total DIY job.

Thanks!

[john70t]

I've absolutely no experience with the buisness but real hardwood is nice to walk on, and the colors can nicely accentuate wall decorations and various decor.

Hardwood can be problematic in some areas, but having the same temperature and humidity year-round in good ol Cali, you should be allright if it's kept waxed, the crawlspace adequitly vented, and no foundation shifting(gulp).

Every new house frame made of wood (remember shrinky-dink?) is gonna have settling issues.
The thickness of the top material will determine how much you can resurface later on. The color/pattern is up to you. Doing the whole house or a large percentage is commendable, make sure the base will never shift.

[Greg Otto]

What wood species? Pre-finished or raw? Engineered or solid wood? The cheap stuff is usually short, narrow boards of a lesser desirable grade.

[Zeke]

Originally posted by Greg Otto
What wood species? Pre-finished or raw? Engineered or solid wood? The cheap stuff is usually short, narrow boards of a lesser desirable grade.

What he said. But, if you're gonna cover the floors with rugs leaving only the perimeter, who cares? You can't see 2 floors at once. Otherwise, I'd investigate.

[WOODPIE]

Your link showed a 6" wide engineered T&G plank with micro bevel and aluminum oxide finish. The face veneer is .080".
I am not familiar with this particular manufacturer, Vanier, but I think it could be safe to assume they put out a decent product, and if there are problems with the product itself, BuildDirect would make it right for you.

Whether you decide on this type of flooring or another, be aware that most problems that arise in a flooring installation are not a result of defective product, but from poor installation environment and practices. The dealer you choose should be able to provide support in this area by way of written instruction and suggestions, and they should very preferably have at least one certified flooring technician that you can speak with. Not a salesman! A flooring technician, someone who has actually made a living at some point with foam knee-pads and a pnuematic nailer in their hands, and has had some schooling in the trade.

I've heard the AlO finish is great for wear, and can't be duplicated outside of the factory. You might want or need to buy a router and appropriate grooving bit to do any change-of-direction situations.

Ed

[JavaBrewer]

Thanks everyone for the input. I got the samples yesterday and frankly they're not what I'm looking for in color. The finish is also kinda ify, seems like a quick overspray vs. a penetrating finish other manufacturers use. The wood itself is thick and appears good quality. The other scraped wood floors I've priced locally are anywhere from $8.50 sq/ft up to $14.00 sq/ft. I'm sure there are even more expensive examples around. The floors from BuildDirect are $3.50 sq/ft. I am looking for handscraped or distressed wood cause we have an active family with young kids and a big 'o German Shepherd. Our last home had distressed floors (Bruce Rockwell Plank ) that looked as good 2 years after install as the day they were put in. I know Bruce is kinda low end but these floors were awesome. Unfortunately, the two colors they come in don't match up well with the cabinetry in our new home. The price is definitely right.

I have installed a few wood floors (glue down on concrete) and more tile floors than I care to recall (heavy work - hard on back). I don't do this for a living, only as a hobby. Plus, I can't afford to pay someone for this type of work. As everyone here stated, the most critical part of the install is the floor prep. My sub floor is concrete slab currently covered with cheap carpet and some lino. After removal I'll have the floor sanded before I fill any low spots/dips. I've already done a few moisture tests that came back no problem. Then it's a direct glue down using Bostics best adhesive.

Regards.