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Hugh R's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: southern California
Posts: 26,964
Experience Rebuilding 70's GM Front Ends

Anyone have any experience rebuilding GM front ends from the 70's? I have a 72 Olds Cutlass (350) that my son and I want to rebuild the front suspension/steering on it. Any special tools besides pickle forks? I know we have to drill out the rivets holding in the ball joints. I've got a Chiltons manual, but would like some real life experience. The books mentions about a dozen GM tools, which I don't want to buy for this one-time rebuild. Any feed back would be appreciated.

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Hugh
Old 12-26-2004, 10:55 AM
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Get a huge spring compressor that you can put through the middle of the spring if you're replacing 'em. Passenger side spring will be a PITA to take out since it's probably oversized for your A/C pump. If you're gonna replace 'em (I did on my Poncho- same chassis and an 80's caddy) go with lowered springs, it'll sit like a stagecoach if you don't, and a real hassle to reinstall. We did OEM springs the 1st time and it took not only a compressor but a huge prybar, and two guys yanking on it. If I ever have to mess with 'em again, I'm simply cutting them with a grinder.
Also a dedicated ball joint removal tool is helpful behind the discs for the steering knuckles. Never tried to rebuild the steering box, it's cheap enough just to buy one.

Only other thing is check the lower A-arms closely. A lot of these cars are starting to show up with tears around the balljoint area. Other than that for the suspension nothing special except the pickle fork and a lot of banging with hammers.

Good luck.

rjp

Edit: oh, and you don't need any of that crap in the book.
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Last edited by RANDY P; 12-26-2004 at 11:31 AM..
Old 12-26-2004, 11:27 AM
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Thanks Randy

I found a friend of a friend who will loan me the pickle forks. I may rent/buy the ball joint removal tool. Judging from the pictures, it looks like the way to go. Springs are good, its the bushings and ball joints that appear to be shot.
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Old 12-26-2004, 02:28 PM
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Hugh,

These are a piece of cake.

Disassembly is a breeze:

1. Remove wheels
2. Remove brakes/rotors (replace rotors and bearings they are like 20$ each) and shocks (replace those too)
3. Remove tie rods, I use air hammer, unless you are trying to save the seals a pickle fork works fine.
4. Remove the cotter pins on the upper and lower ball joints but leave the nuts on but loose.
5. Smack the side of the lower control arm and using the springs pressure (car on jackstands, but not under control arm) the tapered shaft should come loose.
Repeat on upper ball joint.
6. After freeing the spindle from the ball joints, place floor jack under lower ball joint and compress the spring enough to remove the spindle.

****BE CAREFUL HERE. THERE IS A LOT OF ENERGY IN THOSE SUCKERS******

(Auto zone will loan you a spring compressor tool that goes in where the shock was and may be worth your while for the first time or two).

7. The upper control arm and shaft are unbolted from the engine compartment (save the shims for a rough reinstallation until you can get to an alignment shop) and the lower control arm is held in with two large bolts (note direction of bolts it's important).
8. The upper ball joint is easy, drill out the rivets (4) and replace with supplied bolts. The lower joint is a press fil that can be either pressed or pounded out, but the new one is pressed in.
9. The control arm bushings can present a challenge, I would suggest taking them to a competent shop to be replaced. If you do it yourself, just remember not to distort the control arms too much (they are just stamped steel). Don't replace the ball joints without doing the bushings I guarantee if they aren't worn out they are rotted and they will never hold an alignment.
10. Assembly is in the reverse order.

If you don't use a spring compressor to remove the springs, they should go back in using the cars weight with no problem, just be careful. And don't forget to put the springs "tail" in the pocket on the lower arm.
All of the tools you will need can be "rented" free of charge from auto zone (or the like if you have a preference), they just need a deposit while the tools are out.

All in all, this is an easy job. In fact after just changing the front suspension on my 911, I am looking forward to rebuilding the front end on my malibu next month.

Pete
Old 12-26-2004, 03:33 PM
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Pete

Thanks so much!

I looked at a few Cutlass/GM websites and didn't find this kind of info, which is why I KNEW a Pelican would know the answer. As usual, with this crowd, my expectations in help have been greatly exceeded.
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Old 12-26-2004, 08:22 PM
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Hugh,

Autozone will "lend" just about any tool you need for the rebuild. They typically sell you the tool and you return it for 100% no questions refund.

Check it out: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/loan_a_tool.jsp
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Old 12-27-2004, 04:22 AM
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Hey all got the Oldsmobile front end rebuilt and its being aligned today. Thanks all for the post. Thanks especially Pete for the detailed info. All new bushings, tie rod ends, idler, pitman arms and center link. My son learned alot and we got to work together on it and didn't get in a fight once! He got his license last Friday.
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:20 PM
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Here's a picture of the car that I bought him. Stock 350 with 2 bbl Holly and automatic. We''ve also done the brakes, a few lights, and some weather seals. I figure he'll take better care of it if he has some sweat equity into it. No comments about buying a 16 year old a muscle car please... I've already had that post here. He's an A/B student, working on his Eagle Scout, and absolutely does not drink or do drugs (we've tested).
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:24 PM
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Excellent.

Beautiful car BTW, I wish I had access to SoCal weather out here. LOL I had to drop a motor and do some brake work in the driveway (911 is in the garage) gotta love the teens......

Don't worry about the age with the muscle car thing, my first car was a 327 vega (don't ask) followed by a half dozen big block chevelles (2@66/2@67/70/71) with a tunnel rammed 427 4 speed 71 camaro thrown in for good measure. Nothing like being a kid, oh, didn't wreck one of them.

Now you need a 4 barrel intake/carb and dual exhaust. Then maybe a cam and shift kit..........

HAVE FUN. Everything else is gravy.

Pete
Old 02-12-2005, 03:08 PM
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I'm late to this thread..
anyway I would'a offered my history of building GM muscle cars for the meanest trashed up street roads in the US. It's called NYC.. kinda like if it's good enough for a Mexican Baja it'll be good enough for NYC.

anyway.. that era was wonderful to live thru.
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Old 02-12-2005, 10:02 PM
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I like the car and I think it's great to get the kid involved with you as a father-son project. He will definitely appreciate the car more now that he's got some sweat equity in it.

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Old 02-13-2005, 07:10 AM
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