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Road Bikes (bicycles) Advice

I know some of you are into road bikes. I'm looking for a nice compliment to my Trek 930 mtn bike. I paid $550 ? for that 6 years ago and have probably got out ever penny I pidd for it. However, I just don't have the time to hit the trails like I used to.

Been riding it on the street for years, but its like driving a Jeep on a racetrack. I'm now looking for a road bike.

Last night I was looking at the Cannondale R700 - it was pretty nice. That bike was about $1200 (which is probably a little more that I want to spend but could spend that). Quite light, all the welds are ground off to reduce vibrations. Bladed spokes. No C/F but the seat stays were bowed to allow for some flex.

What do you ride, what do you like about it?

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Old 08-16-2005, 05:08 AM
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Lots of road bike guys here. Some are really serious. I'm not so serious, mostly just ride the roads around my house. Guess what I am trying to say is unless you are going to get really serious about road bikes, or just like to spend money, there are lots of bikes out there in the $300-$500 range that will serve your needs quite well.
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Old 08-16-2005, 05:33 AM
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It's like everything else, Bang for the Buck and usage.

My brother has a c/f cannondale, he's very hard core. I hate it.

I have a Douglas Ti from Colorado cyclist, huge bang for the buck. Love it, 8000mi in 3 yrs.

You can spend more or less, but try riding as many different frames as you can, the difference in materials and geometry is astounding.
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Old 08-16-2005, 05:41 AM
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Really depends on who (rather than what) you are. Big guy? Climbing, comfort, speed/trialing, road condition? Plenty of good chromoly bikes left that are in the <1K range. Alu is plenty stiff especially in big tube sizes. Ti is very comfortable, but prob $$$ and can deflect if you step heavy etc.

My road is Alu aero w/CF fork and rear triangle. Pretty comfortable, but a little on the stiff side. Never deflects though when I sprint.

Look at some of the smaller frame & bike builders too. Their prices might surprise you.
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Old 08-16-2005, 07:07 AM
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I rode a Trek 5200 carbon for years. Just recently passed if off to my father so he can train for a biathalon.

http://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2004/road/5200.jsp

Amazing bike. So light and stiff.....power at the pedal goes directly to the road.

I liked the carbon frame, but it was a damn rough ride. If you live in an area with rough road surfaces, you may want to go with steel. The carbon is so stiff that it you get a lot of 'road noise' feeback through the frame. I am riding a street hyrid at the moment because I am only riding in the city. The steel frame softens up the ride, and my next road bike will definitely be steel (maybe aluminum).


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Old 08-16-2005, 08:08 AM
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Have an older Cannondale R700 - which way back (in 1995) was a triathlon-specific 650c time-trial type bike. Stiffness never bothered me (5'11", 160lbs) on rides of less than 50 miles or so. Seat stays were cantilevered rather than bowed.

Switched to carbon spoked wheels for a 112 mile bike race/training in the summer of 1999. Never had a problem with buzziness after that. Good bang for the buck.....

Rode it at a triathlon 2 weeks ago - and still rides beautifully.
Old 08-16-2005, 08:21 AM
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Re: Road Bikes (bicycles) Advice

Quote:
Originally posted by VaSteve
...all the welds are ground off to reduce vibrations.


How does grinding the welds down reduce vibration???
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:41 AM
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Re: Re: Road Bikes (bicycles) Advice

Quote:
Originally posted by Drago


How does grinding the welds down reduce vibration???
2nd that.
they smooth out the welds to make the bike look cleaner.
who told you that crap about lowing vibrations?
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:50 AM
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Comming from a road racing background I have ridden Trek carbons, Lightspeed ti's, Marin's steel/carbon and full carbon and a few custom steel frames. A custom Eddy Merckx too.
Personally the custom steel frames that I have ridden are the most lively followed by ti, and then carbon.
A light Wheel set goes a very long ways to a fun ride.

I think the grinding of the welds has no consequence on ride. it is a cosmetic thing and maybe a little weight savings.
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:59 AM
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Steel frames has always suited me. You can't beat the comfort, road feel or the longevity. For a group set, I'd suggest Shimano. They've come a long way and compete well with Campagnolo.

Look around online. I've seen instances where you could set up a bike like this for well below $1K.
Old 08-16-2005, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dd74
Steel frames has always suited me. You can't beat the comfort, road feel or the longevity. For a group set, I'd suggest Shimano. They've come a long way and compete well with Campagnolo.
I've always run Shimano gear on all my bikes, good stuff and inexpensive as well.

That said, I want my next bike to be custom steel w/ all Campy.
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:28 AM
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If you are up there in age, ti is the only way to go. If you custom it to you, it will be the last bike you will ever buy. Ti never rusts has about a 18% flex before it will actually bend, it will probably never metal fatigue out like other metals. Never have to worry about paint chips or scratches.

After riding road bikes for over 30 yrs with campagnolo and get this, still use sewup tires, wouldn't have it any other way.

Clincher riders are always fixing their tires while I will always be riding by with my 175 psi sewups.
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gatotom
If you are up there in age, ti is the only way to go. If you custom it to you, it will be the last bike you will ever buy. Ti never rusts has about a 18% flex before it will actually bend, it will probably never metal fatigue out like other metals. Never have to worry about paint chips or scratches.

After riding road bikes for over 30 yrs with campagnolo and get this, still use sewup tires, wouldn't have it any other way.

Clincher riders are always fixing their tires while I will always be riding by with my 175 psi sewups.
Sounds like a nice ride Tom. I went to a local builder (Ti Cycles) and inquired about having a Ti frame built for me. The guy took one look at me and said he wouldn't recommend Ti for me but that he'd be more than happy to build me a steel frame. Something about my size led him to this conclusion

Hmmm, custom steel, campy and sewups. I think we're onto something here!
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:53 AM
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I vote for a steel frame to keep cost reasonable. Pick a comfort road bike (more upright) that has a decent length head tube so you won't be cleaning your teeth with the front tire. I like Campagnolo Veloce drivetrain because it's not expensive, the components can be rebuilt, and the levers feel better in my hands.

I ride an Interloc road bike. It fits me decently and is crazy light (not that I care any longer), but the finish is awful. The Veloce 10 speed drivetrain has been fabulous, but indexing can be hit or miss if the chain is not clean and lubed. I do lust for American or European steel with Campagnolo and bulletproof wheels.
Old 08-16-2005, 10:15 AM
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Yeah - steel bikes can be plenty light, too. My LeMond Zurich weighs 18 pounds.

As for metal fatigue, I still have a Colnago Super frame that when I raced, I put about 30,000 miles a year on. I've had it for 20 years. I still have it, and it rides the same as the day I first raced it on Mulholland Highway. Metal fatigue is definitely not in its nature.

Drago - are you too large for Ti?
Old 08-16-2005, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dd74
Yeah - steel bikes can be plenty light, too. My LeMond Zurich weighs 18 pounds.

Drago - are you too large for Ti?
Most of the difference in all the mid grade bikes can be accounted for with components, that's why the question is who/what your body is like, where/condition of the road you ride, what kind of riding. Different materials can help you different ways. Drago's probably more of the sprinter body (this is a nicer way dd), just like I am. So need more info - like the typical "more pictures" request.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:05 AM
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You can never go wrong with a nice steel frame.
My Merckx frame that I rode in Europe in 1986. has countless rain rides cobbles crashes ect. Has sooo many miles on it and it is still a blast to ride.
Ti bikes: I broke the Lightspeed twice in three years both times at the chainstays
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by artplumber
Drago's probably more of the sprinter body (this is a nicer way dd), just like I am. So need more info - like the typical "more pictures" request.
LOL! You're right. In cycling terms that is a "nicer" way of putting it.

I used to have a climber's body. But then I made the mistake of lifting weights. I do sprint now...but usually to get out of the way of cell-phone-attached mothers in Suburbans.

The rule, I've heard, with climbers is not unlike that of the weight/horsepower ratio of cars: -100 lbs = 10+ hp. In cycling it's like: -10 lbs = 1+ mph uphill, IIRC.

Sadly, it's sometimes easier to take 100 pounds off a car than 10 pounds off one's self.
Old 08-16-2005, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gatotom
If you are up there in age, ti is the only way to go. If you custom it to you, it will be the last bike you will ever buy. Ti never rusts has about a 18% flex before it will actually bend, it will probably never metal fatigue out like other metals. Never have to worry about paint chips or scratches.

After riding road bikes for over 30 yrs with campagnolo and get this, still use sewup tires, wouldn't have it any other way.

Clincher riders are always fixing their tires while I will always be riding by with my 175 psi sewups.
That must be why I love Ti, rode good(not great) steel frames for 30yrs, would never want to go back.

I use 160# clinchers, they seem to do ok most of the time
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gatotom

Clincher riders are always fixing their tires while I will always be riding by with my 175 psi sewups.
Hmmm...I can't even find a shop that will work on my sew up wheels, let alone sell sew up tires...

Old 08-16-2005, 11:49 AM
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