I have a suspicion that the first Colt 32 pictured in this thread is a refinished gun? All the other Colts pictured are Shooter quality and not Collector quality guns.

Refinished guns generally have little collectability...this maxim is changing slightly now..and applies to guns whose prices have put them out of the reach of most buyers... so a restored gun is beocming acceptable in this case.

Also with the rise in prices it is now lucrative for people to retore collectable guns and pass them off as mint condition orginals..I can think of one well known Colt Dealer whose has been at this for years...after the gun passes through 3 or 4 hands it begins to have credibility as an orginal...one has to remember that these guns were made to be used and not collected...thus finding a mint condition one is rare...

I personally would rather buy a gun that has some wear on it thus showing age vs those safe queens that only get taken out of the safe with white gloves on.

The first one, the seller stated up front, that it was most likely re-blued. Even with that, it was fired, and was dirty (except the outside) when I bought it. It does seem very tight mechanically.

I am considering having the early one re-blued. Not to improve value, but to preserve it. Tabs, unless you have a better way to preserve it without rebluing.

It will arrive next week, pictures are from the seller. I'll inspect and let you know when I get a chance.

At this point, I do not have enough money to get "collector" grade guns. Besides. I am planning to fire them once in a while. It's like my Porsche. It's not a daily driver, but they will get used once in a while. And as with my Porsche, preservation and function are the key. I want whatever I have (except for that unknown 2 barrel monstoscity), to be functional and to not degrade.

James

Yes this is in stainless. The Keltec is lighter. The wood on the NAA grips fit my hands better that the tiny keltec and it is subjective but the polymer only guns never have the heft I like a weapon to have. I like pretty, the dull matte ss finish is very functional but this piece is more a personal statement like a nice expensive pen or watch.

I used this guy, slow but very very nice work. http://www.mahovskysmetalife.com and got this service.

High Phosphorous Electroless Nickel plating.


"high-phosphorous electroless nickel is among the most corrosion resistant gun coatings. It was applied over a highly polished surface to produce a bright nickel finish."

I have had several guns over the years in nickel and while not correct for tactial use sure looks pretty ! very very durable and will not flake or peel.

oh yea about the carry weight, not really a big deal. Simpler than a full size hip or IWB carry and 100% easier to conceal. When you NEED to carry why worry about weight ?

here is front pocket carry and a rear pocket carry rig.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130740832.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130740859.jpg

I have all four 1911, 1903 .32, 1908 .380, and the little 1908 .25.

The 03 with hydro shocks is my carry. VERY reliable guns. I have some spare parts for the 03 and 08. PM me if you need anything.

Thanks!

New Colt
 

Here ya go Red!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130769766.jpg

I really disliked my PPK/S. I dumped it and bought a German made PP in .380. Now we're talking'. However, I traded it even this week for a collector grade, 1929 Ithaca GRADE 5 (!) 12ga. The thing belongs in a jewelry shop.

He didn't suspect a thing :-)

Red...you there? Red?

My 32 is marked US Property...

Nice collection. That is where eventually I'd like to go, but right now I'm collecting what I can afford.

On the shotgun, I sort of felt that way with the low number .32, until I met the seller. He knew _exactly_ what he had and had it priced properly. My Sig and one Kelt-tec, on the other hand, was definitely a deal.

Hey Tabs, where is it marked?

Red ..I bought all of those on the cheap. That's why I didn't feel too bad about refinishing them. The one in the third one down is all original and it's nickle plated at the factory. It also had factory genuine pearl grips. It's also a 1908, .380. The rest are brushed chrome so they aren't too pimpy. The good thing about plating is that it gets super cleaned, gone through, and after it's done it's hard, so it lives forever.

Tabs...talk to me about William Moore and sons shotguns.

I'm going to try my hand at striping, polishing and nickle plating the .25. Of course, if it looks too good in person, I may end up buy another to do this...

James

Use birchwood caseys bluing and rust remover with fine BRONZE wool. To get the finish off. Some may tell you to use naval jelly but don't, it etches the metal pretty deep. DO NOT use any powered wire wheels or buffers...you will be sorry. Brownells sells a great cold blue called "oxpho..something " that is the best cold blue I have ever used. My gunsmith turned me on to it and it is as close to hot blue I have ever seen. I have done about 3 shotgun barrels with it and it's absolutley the best. The guy that did my plating was accurate plating and weaponry in safety harbor fl. Do a web search for his site if you like. About 2 bills for strip, buff, and plate.

I have a guy here in Texas for plating. He's doing my slides for my concealed carry pistols. I don't care about the look, only the rust prevention.