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Here is my 3x8' home made bench. I covered the plywood top with a sheet of laminate, the stuff that you use for the back of light furniture, picked at home depot. Cheap enough to replace as needed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254579987.jpg |
My work bench made of left over material from finishing the basement, I only purchased a sheet of 3/4 MDF for the top and bottom shelf
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254580130.jpg My sons workbench which my dad built for me when I was a kid. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254580236.jpg |
The wall had to be kept clear for walking, so I made these out out of laminated closet doors on door hinges.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254799370.jpg This(messy) one is next to the door- much easier to blow all the dust outside. Holster for drill on the left and angle grinder on the right. This is mostly for metal fab and BFH action. Covered with 1/4in steel plate. I wish it had a drawer and some surface clamps. (those jack stands have to go) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254799413.jpg |
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Reviving an old thread...
I'm in the process of building a new workbench and have drawn up this. Any thoughts or criticism?:D http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...psguhoh8rt.jpg |
It doesnt say DUK or Porsche on it.
Looks nice to me :) Quote:
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http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...e/FILE0013.jpg |
DIY Workbench
I made two for my shop. I used pieces of 4x4 for the legs, edged around with pieces of 1x4 and a piece of 3' x 8' 3/4" plywood for the top. The left over piece of plywood that was 1'x8' was fastened to the back side to act as a splash panel. I'm fairly tall, so I used legs that are 4' long. I used some more pieces of 1x4 to brace the lower ends of the legs. I put a shelf under one of the benches but left the other one open.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422937862.jpg My other workbench is a WWII surplus unit that is about 3' x 10' and made entirely of hardwood! The sucker must weigh close to 400 lbs! The top is made up of pieces of hardwood that are 1'x4"x10' long. The 4" side is vertical and all of the strips are held together by pieces of threaded rod with a heavy spring on one end. That way, if the wood swells, it will compress the spring and if it contracts, the spring will keep the top solid. I think it was originally built to go on the hangar deck of an aircraft carrier but that is just a guess! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422938127.jpg |
I cut up an old work table (from a school shop that was being torn down) with a welded angle iron frame & used that to make my work bench. If you want a wood work surface (which you can cover all or part of with steel sheet), I'd recommend mine. I went to HD and bought a 4x8, tongue & groove, plywood flooring sheet 1 1/8 in. thick. I used the strip I cut off to make the table top as a backing against the wall. I paid $35 for that sheet maybe 5 years ago. Don't know what they cost now.
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Wow a thread from 10 years ago ;)
My workbench I built in 2012 made of 2x6 and 4x4 posts. I incorporated a Knaack jobsite box for storage of items I didn't want to lose in the event of a robbery. All was lag bolted together and then to the wall in about 10 spots. Was a fun project. http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...917_100911.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...917_101009.jpg |
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I did something very similar last year….although, I wish I would have incorporated some type of security storage as well. I have a lockable rollaway, but thats easy for a couple guys to put in a truck. |
man you guys are so neat and tidy. My workbench always looks like a bomb hit it....
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You guys with the neat and clean garages really piss me off...
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"Honey, can you help me stain some furniture?" |
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The ideal is to have a dedicated workspace for each project, no matter how small or inconsequential. A Canepa-like space would be fine with me. :) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422994326.jpg Sherwood |
i screwed a 2x4 across the back wall for the back side of the table. i also put one lower for a shelf.
then i built a box frame for top and bottom with braces about every 16 inches. . then i put legs on the front of the frame. i did mine a little different. most people put the legs on the inside of the frame, i butted mine up to the bottom edge of the frame. even though that can have it draw backs i think it holds more weight that way. then plywood on top. one great touch is to get that laminate for kitchen tops and glue that to the plywood. i have that on one section of my bench and i really like it, i have rubber mat on the rest. problem is i cant find the laminate anymore. putting the 2x4 on the back wall keeps the bench from moving, but just being screwed to the wall could limet the weight....perhaps no bigblock V8's on the bench. |
Here's a picture of what has passed for a work bench in my garage for the last 30 yrs.
My brother said he'd pay for the lumber as a house warming gift so I could build one, but we found this while contemplating how big to build one. It was being surplussed by our then current employer and had been used in an electrical shop. When he found we could get it for $40 it was a no-brainer buy. It came with the power strip you see running across the back. The top can be taken off and flipped over to re-new the surface. It weighs about 400 lbs and the drawers are full depth and it measures 8 ft long by 3 ft deep. The top is solid masonite. As you can see, it is an awesome work space, when you can find space to work. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1423068265.jpg |
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