Anyone here ever built their own 1911?
 

I posted a while back about a 1911 I was having custom built for me, but that was taking over seven months with no end in sight. I finally demanded a refund and return of parts.

This is what I have to work with.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157767990.jpg

I thought I couldn't stand nickel and planned to have this stripped and coated in ceramic black. But the more I look at it, the more I like it. I can't stand to mail this off again and wait forever. I'm sure I can pick up a decent frame at the next gun show and I think I'm reasonably mechanically inclined. My only issue with building a gun is whether I can add a beavertail without any milling. I think that may be beyond me. Surely, someone out there has done this before. Tell me how!

Sure you can. If you want to add a fancy beavertail without milling, check with Brownell's. I bet they still sell one. By the way you should pick up a Brownell's catalog, they sell most (99%) of what you will need for this project. Feel free to PM me any questions.

Many aftermarket parts fit with little or no "gunsmithing". In addition to the Brownell's catalog, which is absolutely the best source for the parts you need to finish this, get Jerry Kunhausen's book on the 1911. It is still advertised in most gun magazines, available at many gun shops, and probably over the internet. It is an invaluable resource on how these things go together. With a little care, common sense, and guidance, you should have no trouble.

I've done plenty of work on my old Commander and it's nothing new to me. But I never installed something that didn't already fit perfectly. I've heard that adding a beavertail can require some massaging. I guess I can find everything I need at the next gun show. Looks like there aren't any frames on Brownell's for under $300.

Are you handy with small mill files and stones? If you are, any fitting should not be a problem. Beavertails sometimes are too wide to fit the frame, so you can file and stone them down for a slop-free fit. The "working" interface between it and the sear just has to block it when relaxed, and get out of the way when depressed. It's pretty easy to make sure it does both.

The critical fits are in the hammer/sear and the disconnector. The thumb safety can be a little bit of a hassle as well. Kunhausen does a great job of describing the working relationships and fitting requirements between these parts. Follow his advice, work slowly, check often, and you will be fine.

Its going to require a tooling investment and a lot of practice, but it will be really rewarding. I can't offer a lot of advice outside of telling you to buy the Kunhausan books and pointing you to the websites below to get a feel of what you are up against. Lots of really great 1911 pistolsmiths decided to start working on guns after dealing with similar frustrating experiences. Good luck.

http://pistolsmith.com/
http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmithing.html
http://www.roderuscustom.tzo.com/

Yup, what do you need??

Send me a PM or email to jriera(at)cox.net

I need a list of parts I will need in addition to the ones in the photo above. I have no other 1911 spare parts laying around. Looks like Wilson may have the most versatile beavertail I would like. So I'm thinking of calling them on Mon. to order a kit. Or I can just wait until the next gun show in Oct. and I'm sue someone there will have it all.

What frame (maker) are you going to get? single stack, double stack?

While Wilson is one of the best suppliers, depending on the frame they may be better alternatives

You probably saw this picture of my latest 'creation' .. This is my competition gun, replaced my old-trusted Colt Combat Commander .45 with about 150,000 rounds thru the barrel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157817414.jpg

Took me a bit over 6 months and about 500 rounds to have it to my like it ..

Buy a used 1991A1 with a good amount of material on the front strap. Keep the slide stop, thumb safety, and frame, plunger tube, pins, bushings, mag release. Im not kidding. The little parts are going to cost as much as an entire gun. Most of the small Colt parts will last a lifetime. Throw the trigger, hammer, sear, and disconnector in the garbage and buy a set of the carryguns.gom ignition parts. If you want to make it a really nice first build, then toss the Colt barrel and bushing and buy a Kart easy-fit barrel until you have a lathe to turn a match barrel down. You may need some help along the way, but there is a ton of good info at the sites I posted above. Good luck!

Oh, and get hooked up with an IPSC guy like Jordi :) There is not a group of people that know more about building and shooting 1911s than the IPSC people do.

Great points Shuie.

Rick, check here http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=140&m=3&mn=Colt%c2%ae&model= Gold+Cup%2c+10mm+Gold+Cup%2c+Combat+Target for a complete diagram of parts.

I'm going to be in Baltimore (for a Conference) from Monday to Thursday. Today I will check which parts I may have left that can be of use to you, I use to own a gun range and I was a part time gunsmith in a previous life.

Get something like this --> http://magills.com/pgroup_descrip/50/6930/?return=%3Ftpl%3Dindex%26category_id%3D50%26 to make your gunsmithing life a lot easier.

Great links and thread, I have an old (real old) brand new Para frame, a ed brown 6' barrel and a Colt slide that has been kickin around for years. Thanks for the motivationhttp://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...s/beerchug.gif

There are a few areas that require experience and skill IMO, such as getting a good slide/frame fit, trigger job, hammer/sear engagement, thumb safety, disconnector, extractor, etc. Maybe have a good (local) smith do the hard stuff, and you do ther rest? Also, if you are in the beginning stages with not too much time/$$ invested, you might consider selling/trading that series 80 slide, and finding a good 70-series one. Just my personal (k.i.s.) preference though.
You may want to PM Dane Burns ("rdane") on this board as well. He builds exceptional 1911's for a living, and may offer some suggestions and guidance. Good luck!
SmileWavy

No, But I have built my own A-Bomb in the garage using spare parts and common household items...

As much as I want to do this, it looks like it's gonna cost as much as a new Kimber. I may just eBay the slide/upper off. I refuse to do the mail-away-to-the-gunsmith thing ever again. And it looks like some part fo this job would require my handing it off to a pro. Even when I dropped my SIG Pro off at a local gun shop for a trigger job, it was about six weeks before the guy called and said he couldn't do it, since no one made a lighter spring for the SIG Pro.

Rick, don't get disencouraged ... is like Porsches ... you can always buy something better and newer ... but the satisfaction to do it yourself .... priceless.

Someone pointed above that all you need is a couple of files, and he is correct (I will add patience too). I had the same issue with long delivery/return times that is why I 'learned' the trade. Is a lot easier than what you may imagine. Beavertails fit usually without having to even use the file, you may go thru a couple of sears before you get it 'right', hammers and disconnectors are usualy drop-in's. Give it a try, you can always use eBay as a last resort ... or if you get too frustrated send the parts to me, the first one is free :) and can be done in a couple of days.

I've been accused of building an A-bomb at a Mexican lunch buffet. Ask anyone that rode back to work with me...

Just found a very nice mil-spec stainless Springfield on Glocktalk, missing only the barrel, for $300!!!!! If my offer isn't too late, I think this might be the best platform for me to start with. If I can get $200 for my Colt parts, I'll be WAY ahead of the game.