Chainsaw Question

M.D. Holloway · 09-10-2006, 08:56 PM

I borrowed my Father-in-laws chian saw - a Jonsered Huskvarna Turbo CS2150 to rip some logs into boards. Prior to wit I warmed up on some rather big stump buddies that "The Artist" and "mi hombres" left over. The blade is now rather dull. I will get in sharpened but in my attempt to be a good son-in-law I figuered I also get him a new blade. Lowes was no help. I bought two different ones (a Huskvarna and an Oregon Troy Bilt) and neither fit - the links just are not flush on the outer sproket on the bar. WTF! I even bought a new bar and chain and it didn't fit either (just too tight).

OK brain trust, whats the dealio? Are not chain saw chains somewhat universal?

pwd72s · 09-10-2006, 09:42 PM

They are not...different spacing in the link for different saws. Check your yellow pages, see if any specialty saw shops exist near you. I recently bought a new chain for my saw...if memory serves, it was around $25 installed. While you're in the shop ask about buying the proper sized file, and get some tips on sharpening and also adjusting the chain...it's really easy to do once you learn a few tricks. Depending on the type of wood I'm cutting, I can have a need to sharpen often...as little as 1/2 hour of cutting can use a sharpening. The job goes MUCH easier with a sharp saw. Of course, if I hit a rock, or some bozo hammered a nail into the tree, all bets are off. Be careful of that if this is a city tree...kickback or a chain can fly off. You do not want to get bit. Have somebody around while you're cutting...somebody able to drive you to a hospital if you get bitten. When you get tired, rest...accidents are more likely to happen when you're pooped.

M.D. Holloway · 09-10-2006, 09:57 PM

I'm lucky, I do know of a place very close by that I can take it - I should have went there first.

The tree that we had cut down had a barbed wire fence grown into it. During the last cut I made into the logs I hit it and luckily I didn't ruin the blade but it is rather dull.

xlr8 · 09-11-2006, 07:39 AM

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/tech_safety.htm

pwd72s · 08:05 AM

That'll do it, Mike. Rocks, metal...if you're cutting and see a spark? Might as well get the file out & start sharpening. The saw shop here has rolls of chain...different sizes and teeth, depending on the saw and it's use. Mounted on a wall, like rolls of wire in an electrical shop. They just use the length needed of the proper stuff when replacing a chain. OREGON brand chain is still the favorite of the cutters here.

I'm fortunate to have a friend who is a pro cutter. He gave me some tips. Now I know just enough to be dangerous. Be careful!

(edit) Thanks for the link to the Oregon site, Russ...great advice there. It covers the basics well. I'll admit it, when I get into the big diameter trees? I call Lonnie, the pro cutter I know. He recently fell some 4-5' dia. trees for me. It's a joy to watch a pro work. My saw is a little homeowners saw. I don't like to mess with anything much bigger than 2' trunk diameter. Lonnie, who has logged for decades, knows what he's doing...I scare myself.

vash · vash's Garage

isnt the correct chain sizing etched on the bar? i just take the entire unit into the same shop i bought mine and they hook me up. i now have three chains in rotation.

stay out of the sand. and sandy clumps on the stump get me everytime..

fastpat · 09-11-2006, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vash
isnt the correct chain sizing etched on the bar? i just take the entire unit into the same shop i bought mine and they hook me up. i now have three chains in rotation.

It should be, it's chain pitch and the width of the groove the chain rides in I think. It's done that way on my Stihl saws.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_chain.html

Icemaster · Icemaster's Garage

Not only rocks & metal, but dirt also. Keep it out of the dirt, single quickest way to dull a chain.

Remember, the harder the wood, the longer the chain keeps it edge.

Oh yeah, and tell him to go buy a real saw.

Stihl 08 21" bar.

pwd72s · 09-11-2006, 02:24 PM

My pro cutter friend uses stihl, for the most part....but a 21" bar is a small saw by his standards. His day job is Oregon logging...

Wish I could remember the bar length of his saw when he was cutting redwoods...he took a job in N. Cal one summer, just because he always wanted to fall the biggest ones. His family comes from generations of timber workers. His great grandfather helped log the great Mohave forest of Southern California...

fastpat · 09-11-2006, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pwd72s
My pro cutter friend uses stihl, for the most part....but a 21" bar is a small saw by his standards. His day job is Oregon logging... Wish I could remember the bar length of his saw when he was cutting redwoods...he took a job in N. Cal one summer, just because he always wanted to fall the biggest ones. His family comes from generations of timber workers. His great grandfather helped log the great Mohave forest of Southern California...

I have a Stihl MS200T (14 inch bar) which I use quite a lot, good for up to 5 inch trees. Very light, and 2 horsepower. For the big stuff, I have a Stihl MS440 with a 28 inch bar. Very "weighty", about 5.4 horsepower. It will cut anything I'm likely to attempt, and very quickly too.

Seahawk · 09-11-2006, 03:20 PM

Mike,

It is also worth it to invest in chain saw chaps that protect you lower legs...also steel-toed boots, no matter how little or big the job.

I can very close to learning the hard way. I was at the end of a few hour of cutting, and was tired. The saw was off power, winding down when it hit my levis just above and to the right of my left knee. I was very lucky: lots of skin damage but no muscle issues.

Trust me, anyone why questions the chaps and boots is an idiot. I never saw without them, not matter how small the job. Oh, and eye protection, too!!!

Icemaster · Icemaster's Garage

I "acquired" an 08 back when I was in the tool rental business, thing ran circles around everything else I had, including the 3 Farm Bosses, even though it was years older. It managed to make it's way home with me one weekend and somehow never went back. Still have that and an 021 with a 16" bar around for the small stuff.

Watching the guys who really know what they're doing is an amazing thing. It's almost artistry with how skillful they can be with a cut or dropping a tree.

Icemaster · Icemaster's Garage

+1 on the chaps & helmet.

I've gone through 2 sets of chaps, wont cut without them. All it takes is a second...

This is worth the investment of your doing a lot of cutting:

vash · vash's Garage

hmmm. maybe i will reconsider the chaps. i got a free pair, slightly worn, but i never wear them. thanks.

my saw of choice is a 16" echo. i outcut a few friends with stihl, and husky's the last time out. maybe my chains were sharper, but it wasnt even close.

pwd72s · 09-11-2006, 05:46 PM

I found it! Here's a pic of Lonnie with one of his saws, photo taken in my back yard...cutting firewood rounds out of a poplar here.

Icemaster · Icemaster's Garage

Nice wedges, mark of someone who knows what he's doing.

Vash,

Cool thing about the chaps is that they're designed to not only to protect you from the scratches and small irritations, but also from an errant chain. They're constructed to with an interior of a heavy polyester (I think...) fiber that is designed literally to clog up the saw chain and stop the rotation should you ever have the unfortunate experience of cutting through the outer fabric. It stops the saw before it can cut through to the person underneath.

It works. Trust me.