WOOHOOO!!!! Picked up both the tile saw and the roofing nailer today. Picking up the hardibacker and modified thinset tomorrow, along with coils of roofing nails. Should be starting with the hardibacker installation tomorrow, or at least this weekend.

The saga continues. :D

Randy

Take some pics along the way.


KT

Mild hijack, but still very related-

Trekkor, Have you ever set this-

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/8...0black2jx9.jpg

Does the process differ greatly from slate?

Thanks

Is that going on the floor, like in a bathroom, or as a countertop backsplash?

That material is usually sold in 12" square sheets and is pretty easy to set as long as you are consistent with the amount of thinset you're setting it on. Obviously lots of grout that would be applied with a foam/flexible trowel and then heavy cleanup with damp sponge.

David,
Yes. It is going in a bathroom. I'm setting it as a rectangle in the center of a rectangular floor space in a bathroom and then surrounding it with a water resistant wood(ish) floor. It will also be over a heating mat for that warm, toasty feeling in the morning. Do I use the same kind of grout or is there something that needs to be added due to the huge amounts being used vs tile?

Those look like the decorative river rocks sold in small bags or bulk.

I have dealt with those before. They feel strange on the feet and I think you will get tired of them fast.

the ones I worked with were on a shower floor.
Also keep in mind the large amount of exposed grout that you will need to keep clean.


KT

I found a pic from about 6 years ago.


KT

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168716034.jpg

trekkor- I know they feel a little weird, but a house we stay in the Twin Cities has a couple of bathroom floors like that. We like the look and have gotten used to the feel.

On the big grout- One bathroom in the tc's has white stones with white grout. I should say, had white grout. Now it's kinda tan. We want to use charcoal or black which I think will hold up appearence-wise a lot better.

I found a shot from the big travertine floor on my website.

This was the hardiebacker install.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168717425.jpg


KT

As for the grout I would think a standard sanded variety should be fine. I really don't know if there are grout additives but I'll bet KT does. Don't be afraid to go with a lighter color grout (if that is your first preference). As long as you seal it with a high quality product you shouldn't have any problems with staining or discoloration.

I like the river stone as an accent. I agree with KT that it would be hard on the feet if the whole floor was done. Something to think about if you ever decide to sell your home...

Well, I woke up today with the plan of picking up the backer board, thinset and nails and spending the day laying it out. Ummmmm, it didn't quite happen that way...

Stopped by my local tile source, just to check out their price for backerboard. Found they had my tile on sale (I planned to get it here, anyway).

8500 Lbs later, and this is where I'm at:

A Quick Ton...
1000 Lbs of Thinset Mortar for the backerboard
1000 Lbs of Modified Thinset for the tile
200 Lbs of Grout
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168744383.jpg

100+ Boxes of 16"x16" slate tiles
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168744735.jpg

23 boxes (44 pcs/bx) of 6"x6" slate tiles
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168744804.jpg

Also picked up a pallet (60 sheets) of 1/4" backerboard.

There are some beautiful colors in these tiles. This is gonna turn out looking amazing!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168745241.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168745256.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168745292.jpg

Surprisingly, it only took me 4 hours to unload this stuff, one box at a time, and stack it in the garage, but man, am I feeling it now! :D

I'll pick up the roofing nails tomorrow...let the games begin!!!!!

Randy

Randy,
Good work! That's going to be beautiful!!

wow did you haul all that in your durango? haha

It's comical that you ask that.

Three pallets of tile (20 boxes/pallet), over two trips...I sure did! :D (Actually, my wife drove the Durango) They guys that loaded the Durango were vocally amazed at how much the Durango would carry.

The other 5 pallets (Backerboard, 2+ pallets of tile, the thinset, and the 6"x6" tiles) all fit into the back of a 14' U-Haul truck.

Randy

that is nice looking slate.
Now you get to decide how to finish it.



KT

I posted a slight miscalculation earlier. It isn't 8500 Lbs of suppies.

After doing the math, it turns out it was more like 11000 Lbs. This figures to about 14 psf of weight added to my floor.

This is gonna be fun! :D

Randy

Serious poundage, Brah! :D

I'm feeling each and everyone of them! :)

Randy

You will use twice as much thinset when setting the slate than setting the backer.
Figure 80-90 square feet with the 1/4x14 trowell for the backer.
45 feet using the 1/2x1/2 trowell when installing the slate.

Use acrylic modified for the whole job, not just the slate.
Are you using a modified thinset with the additive in the powder? The "just add water" kind?
you may have a s much as 400#'s of thinset left over from the backer install.

KT

I swear it's like you were reading my mind!!!

No work on the floor today. The weather was beatiful outside, so I took advantage of it and got caught up on some neglected yard chores.

While outside working though, I got to thinking this exact question. "How big of an area will a bag of thinset cover?" As usual, you're full of great info, thanks!!!

The stuff I picked up for the slate:
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
PRO M-BOND ULTRA® 918 is used as a
professional grade bond coat for setting
high lug, absorptive, semi-vitreous, vitreous
ceramic tiles and natural stone for service
in residential and commercial use. It is used
in a mortar bed from 3/32" to 3/16" (2.4 to
4.8 mm) after the tiles have been properly
embedded. PRO M-BOND ULTRA 918 has
excellent water and impact resistance, is
water cleanable, non-flammable, good for
exterior work and requires no soaking of tiles.
PRO M-BOND ULTRA 918 mortar is not affected
by prolonged contact with water, but does
not form a waterproof barrier. PRO M-BOND
ULTRA 918 provides a permanent installation
with higher bond strength and lower material
and labor costs than conventional Portland
cement mortar beds.

The salesman at the tile store said that The C-Cure Thinset Mortar will work just fine with the backerboard, especially since I'll be nailing it in place in addition to the thinset.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
THINSET 911 is a factory blend of Portland
cement, sand and a unique blend of special
additives. C-Cure THINSET 911 produces an
excellent bond with greater coverage than
conventional dry-set mortars for the
installation of ceramic tile.
BASIC USE
THINSET 911 is used as a bond coat for setting
absorptive, semi-vitreous and vitreous
ceramic tile for service in residential and
commercial use for both floor and wall
installations. It is used in a mortar bed from
3/32" to 3/16" (2.4 to 5 mm) after the tiles
have been properly embedded. THINSET 911
has excellent water and impact resistance, is
water cleanable, non-flammable, good for
exterior work and requires no soaking of
tiles. THINSET 911 mortar is not affected by
prolonged contact with water, but does not
form a waterproof barrier. THINSET 911
provides a permanent installation with
higher bond strength, however, requires lower
material and labor costs than conventional
Portland cement mortar beds.
AREAS OF USE
Suitable backings, when properly prepared,
include plumb and true masonry, concrete,
gypsum board (dry interior walls only),
cementitious backer units, cured Portland
cement mortar beds, brick, ceramic tile
and marble.

Will this be adequate?

Also, you mentioned an "additive". Is there something else I should get to add to this stuff, or is it good right out of the bag?

Randy