Bicyclists, what chain for Campy 10 spd?

[turbo6bar]

It's time for a new chain. I have used the old Record 10 spd chain and Wippermann 10 spd chain. Both are the 6.1, 6.2mm width. What should I buy for quiet operation? I would like to use the chain with the Connex link so I can take the chain apart if needed.

I've heard some guys use the Shimano 10 spd chain. Others say use a KMC. There seems to be no consensus. I was about to order a Record 10 ultradrive narrow chain + Wippermann Connex link from Excel, but in the comments section two guys said it is really noisy.

[bkreigsr]

campy ultra narrow 5.9 works best and is the lightest.
only compatable with the with campy chain tool.

both pieces are expensive $ 46 - chain, $ 89 - tool

Bill K

[einreb]

Originally posted by turbo6bar
I was about to order a Record 10 ultradrive narrow chain + Wippermann Connex link from Excel, but in the comments section two guys said it is really noisy.

I run a wipperman 10 spd chain on my record setup. i didn't notice any huge difference in noise. tough to beat the price.

they're cheap enough that i always buy two and swap them out regularly, soaking the 'off' one in a solvent to have it clean and ready.

[teenerted1]

dont dirty your Campy drivetrain with a non-matching Shimano chain.

[turbo6bar]

Well, answer me this: When I am in the larger cogs, the chain makes a lot of racket, and when I get into the smaller cogs (straight chainline), the drivetrain is nearly silent. Thing is, the Park go/no-go chain tool tells me the chain isn't even close to worn out. I used to use homebrew chain lube (mineral spirits and used tranny fluid), but was tired of the noise and having to lubricate so often. I bought Prolink and I think it may even be worse than homebrew. After 1 ride, the chain is noisy again.

What gives?

[turbo6bar]

BTW, I run dirt cheap Campy Veloce. I am sure the purists would just as soon laugh at my components as they would the Shimano chain.

[teenerted1]

Originally posted by turbo6bar
Well, answer me this: When I am in the larger cogs, the chain makes a lot of racket, and when I get into the smaller cogs (straight chainline), the drivetrain is nearly silent. Thing is, the Park go/no-go chain tool tells me the chain isn't even close to worn out. I used to use homebrew chain lube (mineral spirits and used tranny fluid), but was tired of the noise and having to lubricate so often. I bought Prolink and I think it may even be worse than homebrew. After 1 ride, the chain is noisy again.

What gives?

well you have two different situations here and you are missing telling us some info too.

which chainring are you in?
are you cross-chaining? i other words, are you in the large chainring and large cogs in the rear?
or small chainring and small cogs.

if that is the case then YES your drivetrain will be louder and be putting more stress on the chain and lead to premature wear.

by puttng side loads on the chain it will be louder and also may be rubbing on the front or rear cogs too.



the other issue it the "homebrew" CRAP you made up! would you use used oil in your car? why would you use used oil on your bike? especially when it is more exposed to the eliments than a closed car drivetrain. mineral spirits are a good cleaner but NOT a good lube. the USED oil isn't designed for bikes. what it did was overcoat/overlube the chain and probably made it collect dirt and grime much quicker.

the PROLINK is probably trying to clean out the JUNK that you already have on the chain. did you clean your chain before switching lubes? doesnt sound like it.

so that is what the BIKE SPECIFIC lube is trying to do. you will need to apply mutiple coats over several rides before the PROLINK will start to do its job. read the dirrection on the bottle. they are on there for a reason. or go to their website
http://www.progoldmfr.com/

a properly lubed bike chain isn't ment to be silent. the lube really only needs to go on the rollers of the chain. this is the moving part of the chain. you are going to get noise on the cogs and chainrings anyway. but if it starts to sqeek you went to far between mantainance.

chains are a replacable part of a bike should be changed every 6months or 3000 to 5000 miles. more often if in adverse conditions. serious riders lube their chain and WIPE OFF THE EXCESS before every ride/race.

maybe go down to your local INDEPENDENT BIKE DEALER and ask some questions. a knowlegable bike mechanic should be able to help you out.

by the way Campagnolo Veloce is not "dirt cheap" and shouldn't have been treated that way.

[turbo6bar]

Actually, homebrew has been pushed on many internet forums. I have no idea if it is the best, as I don't do enough riding to do a true test.

I am not turning the big ring. I stay in the small ring most of the time, particularly this time of year while my knees are weak. In fact, when I get in the big ring, the chain is quiet again. I never run cross-chainring. I might be lazy, but I'm not stupid.

Prolink was applied to the chain after it was run through the parts washer.

I visited the local shop earlier today, but they didn't have a chain that would fit my bike. He said he could order a Veloce chain, but I shyed away because I wasn't sure if it would be the best choice. Th

Tomorrow, I will run a lot of Prolink through the chain to make sure it isn't gunked up. I'll probably go with the Wippermann. It's cheaper, and I can justify replacing it more often.

Veloce is dirt cheap for what I've gotten out of it. Outside of brake hoods wearing thin, it has performed marvelously.
Thanks for the response.
jurgen

[Jim Bremner]

<--- I've been to MECA I've touched the plates that those chain links have been stamped out of.

yes run the CAMPY chain...use the record chain.

the record chain won't stretch as soon as the velocee one

I run velocee as well

Prolink is recommended by Wipperman as the lube of choice
( I wholesale it to shops, well over 4k bottles of it a year)

good stuff Maynard!

don't cut cost on your lube

[greglepore]

First of all, Prolink basicly is synthetic motor oil and a carrier very similar to odorless mineral spirits-3/1. The idea is to use it regularly as a cleaner in additon to a lube. That is the point in its low viscosity and use of a solvent carrier. Trany fluid is hydraulic oil, and is a poor substitute for a light synthetic in homebrew, particularly used. A quart of Mobil one 5-30 and a gallon of oms makes a couple years supply of chain lube for around 15 bucks. I have some ti cassettes with well over 20k on them, so I think it might work...

As to the chain thing, I've been a SRAM guy for years, but when I "finally" put 10 spd on one of my bikes, I ended up using a KMC, primarily because of cost. I've had NO issues. YMMV, as I'm a little light guy and can't generate much more than 350w for 30 sec.

[turbo6bar]

I actually went to the LBS intending to buy a SRAM chain. The manager did not stock it, and he did not have a favorable opinion of the 10 spd piece. He was positive regarding the 8 and 9 spd SRAM.

My first batch of homebrew was tranny fluid + mineral spirits. It ran great. The chain was quiet for at least 4 or 5 rides. The last batch was 15w40 Amsoil + mineral spirits and I did not like it one bit. It was too thick. Maybe I need to revisit this with a lightweight synthetic.

Jim, the bottle of Prolink says you can use it on a dirty chain. Flush with Prolink liberally, wipe down and then reapply Prolink. Is it necessary to let the Prolink dry before riding? I usually let the bike sit for at least a few hours before riding. I really want to give this a good trial, because everyone raves about Prolink.

[Jim Bremner]

Prolink hates all other lubes.

if you can use a little too much on the first go, it will remove all other lubes

And yes please let it sit an hour or greater for best results

yes, bicycle chain oil isn't cheap.

it needs to cling well, but not have a attraction to dust.

it needs to be thin and lube well but not be messy

and when your dealing in small containers in small quantitys, the plastic bottle cost much more then a "motor oil" quart container

oh and add freight from the East Coast to the West Coast.