Bathroom countertop remodel - marble

[JavaBrewer]

The last of my 2007 honey do's is almost ready to begin. Replace our Master bath counters with solid marble tops to match the bath/shower.

The bath has two separate sinks measuring 2'x6' each. They are currently set in simple tile over 1" thick mud float over plywood. Looking under the cabinets I see a nail or two shot down to secure the plywood to the cabinet base so I'm HOPING that nails were used instead of screws. That would make the demo a pry off job vs. demo of tile, mud, and plywood. In case I do have to demo does anyone have any hints to speed the process? I'm guessing remove the v-cap edge and start with hammer and wide chisel. Here are the two sinks today -





I have the new countertops in house and ready to install. I had the fabricator add a small radius in front of the sinks to give more interest. Note the counters have the finished side facing away from the camera. The sinks are these cool travertine vessel sinks I got off of Ebay (50% savings over local). They match the travertine floors I installed earlier this year. I will be installing quality 1" plywood tops screwed into the base cabinets that the marble tops will sit on. My plan for the backspashes is to tile with travertine up the entire wall and around the mirror. Not decided yet on any decorative bits as I worried about looking too busy. The marble fabricator will be stopping by when I'm ready to help place the tops and drill the final holes for the drains and faucets.



My wife wants to replace the chrome fixtures with rubbed bronze. I have my eye on a couple bronze vessel faucets, the single type that stand on the counter (don't want to replumb for a backsplash mount), but have yet to pull the trigger. My concern is the tub hardward needs to get replaced too...and this stuff is not cheap . A question I have is - can I remove the tub faucet w/o having to get under it? Probably not is my guess. The only access would be to cut sheetrock in the master bedroom wall to access the tub from behind. I'll cut a hole that spans two studs to give me elbow room and to make the sheetrock repair cleaner.



Well that's what I have lined up for the next couple weeks. Any advice from you handy folks would be appreciated. I anticipate starting the demo this Sunday. Time to head to Costco for a case of Pete's Wicked Ale.

[JeremyD]

Get a hammer, wear safety glasses and crack the tile on the front of the dip lip. Sometimes you can get under the plywood with a crow bar - or use a recriprocating saw with a long blade to saw the nails (that will save the front of the cabinet. The rest is usally easier to twist off and patch the drywall.

As far as the tub facets - my guess is you are S.O.L -= you'll have to remove back behind to get to the plumbing. Does it have an access panel? drywall? Marble tile? If tile - take a dremel and do a cut around the grout line. Ttry and get a thin screwdrive behind to pry up - almost impossible to do without monkeying up the tile -

[JeremyD]

oh - and if your wifey is anything like mine - plan on replacing the shower hardware too.

Looks like you could go through the side of the cabinet?

[onewhippedpuppy]

What JD said. If you can get underneath the front edge to pry up a bit on the top, you're golden. If it doesn't easily pry up, use a sawzall to cut off the nails/screws. If it's an older house, 95% chance they are nails. It may also be easier to cut the top in half to remove, sometimes it's hard to remove tops like that when they are in between walls, at least without damaging the walls/stuff on walls.

I agree on the tub, you're probably SOL. I've installed a similar set-up, and it required access from the underside. Personally, I'd prefer to patch sheetrock than mess with tile, so I would cut a hole in the wall.

The other work looks very good, should be a very nice bath when you're done. Me, I get to refinish the walls of a half bath after stripping wallpaper, then lay underlayment and tile. I also get to tear off a tiled countertop, new Onyx top comes in next week. I also need to stock up on beer.

[JavaBrewer]

I know the shower hardware comes next...there is absolutely no access behind the shower other than through the exterior of the house and that's on the second story behind stucco. So you're saying I would need rear access for shower hardware replacement? That would suck The tub I can access from the bedroom. Here is a framing pic I took from the bedroom area looking towards the tub.

[JeremyD]

One more suggestion on the shower hardware. If you find the same model hardware - I have changed out look, without changing out guts. I did this with a kohler - went to brushed nickle from brass. the brass ones were about 6 years old - and luckliy = kohler stayed with the same internal dimensions for the valves. It took me three different ones to find one that fit the shower - but it was worth it (would have also had to make a big honking mess.

Worth a try

[dad911]

You should be able to change the tub and shower trim from the outside, but not the tub drain. You will need the same brand, and have to check that the new trims are compatible.

[Steve Viegas]

Also as a point to remember, showers generally do not have water shut-offs. Most-likely you will need to turn off the water to the house when you go through and make these changes.

[JavaBrewer]

Thanks for the great tips everyone. Ok let the demo begin. I started with one counter top and will proceed with the second this week - if our house survives the fires.

Ok tools at the ready -



Edge caps off and discover the top is nailed down. This will be an easy lift off job. Time to rehydrate



Demo stuff is disposed of and new plywood top awaits the marble slab top. This was an easy 3 hr job and not a single drop of blood, or beer, was spilled in the process.

[trekkor]

Nicely done!

I just found this tread.
That marble looks really nice and the vessels are a nice touch.

I agree that your tub trims should be replacable from th out side.
It's the valve bodies that are installed from under, not the handles and faucet trim.
I suspect the faucet neck has a concealed allen set screw and slips over the supply line with an o-ring.

The drain trim is very likely replaceable in my experience.


KT

[Chocaholic]

Man....I thought it looked pretty good before.

What do I know???

[lookin]

David-

Your job looks great. One suggestion, call your marble fabricator and confirm the thickness of the plywood top, as our countertop guys usually want us to install a 5/8" thick sheet in lieu of the 1" sheet I think you mentioned in an earlier email. Also, see if the fabricator will help you set the counter as we've had diy's break their slabs during the set. Good luck with the install and the fires. My buddy just evacuated from Modjeska Canyon and says it looks bad.

Dale

[trekkor]

Yes on the plywood note.

The laminated front edge of the marble is only 3/4" thick and 1" wood will show.


KT

[jhelgesen]

Renovation looks great.

Word of advice, be careful what you leave around the sink when you are done. The stone is porous and any soap dish or other items that drip will leave stains in the top that won't ever come out.

In the house we just bought, we have to replace the stone tops in the master bath due to the idgit PO laying soap bars straight on the black stone top, they're ruined.

[JavaBrewer]

I quoted the 1" thinking to go with overkill to avoid issues down the road. However once I had the tops in my possession I measured available thickness and determined 3/4" was the way to go. I'm armed with stone sealers for both the marble tops and the travertine sinks. We're definitely not going to be leaving soap bars on the marble...

The fabricator will come out to help with the install. It's going to be tight and difficult (I think) cause the tops have a wall on both sides. Wife wants to test fit the one now to get the "visual" but I'm holding off till we're ready to install. Once installed the fabricator will drill the appropriate holes for the drain and faucets.

This week it's time for the wife and I to start coming up with backspash ideas. I'll post again this weekend with the updated progress reports.

[lookin]

Staining: there is a clay product you can purchase at commercial stone shops. we have successfully used the clay to take out several stains. Unfortunately I don't remember the name.

Sealing: on some stones we have to put on 8 coats of sealer before we can get water to bubble on the surface. We use a product from www.miraseal.com. It is expensive and worth it.

3/4 vs 5/8 plywood: with 3/4 you may still see a thick c-hair of the wood. I know you want to use 3/4 but I'd still double check with your fabricator to see about 5/8.

good luck,

dale

[trekkor]

The clay stain remover is called "poultice".

On the plywood thingy:

If the cabinet has good structure, you realy don't need plywood at all.
I've seen slabs set in caulking along the framework of the cabinet.
Almost impossible to get out in one piece.

It will only break if you hit it with a big hammer or jump up and down on it ( maybe ).
They will likely set the slab in epoxy with just a few "dots". So the only support will be in those areas anyway. A very small percentage of the slab will be supported.


KT

[lookin]

+2 on trekkor's comments

the only thing is if your counter is already fabricated with an edge detail it's probably fabricated to have a 5/8 sheet of plywood underneath. The 5/8 sheet will allow the slab to be at the right height in relation to the cabinet's doors after the slab has been set in a bed of sealant and also result in no plywood showing at the cabinet face.

regarding setting the slab trekkor is 99.9% right imho. most slabs you can't break if you tried. other slabs will crack on a vein if you carry them flat. I've seen it happen and it sucks. from the pics it looks as though you have a fiberglass backing so it made me think you may have a stone with veins and since it didn't seem like this was a normal thing for you to do I thought I'd suggest you have the fabricator help you set.

wish you the best of luck with your install and trekkor thanks again for the ride at searspoint.

dale

[trekkor]

That was fun. Sears is my favorite.


KT

[JavaBrewer]

Well work and schedules delayed this for a couple weeks. Finally got the tops installed this morning. The plywood was 3/4 and fit flush with the bottom of the trim edge so no wood is visible. The marble has some veining so yes the backs were reinforced. It took me and a helper to gently lift them in place and set. Drilled the holes and I'm off to HD soon for a couple install supplies including a stone sealer for the marble (if that's even needed) and the stone sinks.






Now comes the backspash. We're going to open a bottle of wine tonight and start "brain storming". I am planning to use a combination of tile from the counters all the way up to the ceiling. I will then frame the mirrors with moulding to finish. If anyone has creative ideas feel free to submit a pic and/or description.