need advice -- work or lifestyle ... move back ??

[Sapporo Guy]

Ok, gonna steal the thread.

I'm starting to think that my time has come to return home.
38 and have been here for 15 years.
Pretty fluent in the language (reading still needs work) and have a firm grasp on the culture, society and markets.

I have worked my way up the ladder from being some guy off the jet with no teaching skills to being "good" at what I do. I even started my own company and have made it sustainable even in a society that has 1.2 kids per year and a recession that has been going on since the 90's.

Currently, make about $2300 a month. Salary is split between my company and my other jobs, I started working at high schools and what not so that I could distance myself from the "teaching side" of the operations. However, I do have perks from the company like a car, gas, and few "ahem" office expenditures
So, it's nice to do sort of well (relative to this city) and pay lower taxes

The company does pretty well and could take a higher salary but I limit my salary to make sure I have a secure operation. Considering, that the company is in small city (by japanese standards) it is rather stable concerning income and expenses. The days of making ***** loads of money are gone. Maintaining the customer base isn't really that difficult due to our reputation, however, with the poplutation decreasing the market has gotten more competitive.


Sapporo has about 1.9 million people but in reality is very backwater and major corporations are located on the other island in Tokyo. Being non-Japanese means you normally teach English, train horses, or if you're 3rd world -- tend to the dirty jobs.

Living costs are rather palatable and I have about $2-300 left over a month. Rent is about 1/3 of my salary and the city is an awesome place to live but rather lacking on any upper class.

Lifestyle is awesome, 30 minutes to the ski slopes or ice rinks. Less than 3 hours to major world class snow and powder! Nature is normally just a 20 minute drive away including beaches. Streets are basically safe for women to walk alone at night (even with short skirts and high heels -- pros and be found in government registered locations, so no street ladies).

Ladies are awesome to look at but a bit boring to talk to, stay away from world issues and stick to TV shows and you'll be set but ... miss arguments about religion, politics, abortion, terrorism and all that fun stuff.

Basically, a place to live and learn to live with no real "work" advancements in life outside of owning your own company. Tokyo is different. But it's on another island.


Now, my Dad keeps complaining that it's time to come home.

My debate is to pack up and head back to SoCal or do I just stay here and live life in my "comfort zone" and accept the status quo. 6 years on the job that has no pay increases but yet has country wide pay cuts -- high school teaching.

I got divorced and haven't seen my kid in almost a year now. (different story ... I'm learning to live with it ) so, issue of moving family is gone.

I have a BA that's pretty BS so ... no real tech skill to speak of.

If I do go back to the States, I could walk into a job starting part-time at $13 or so, with more than likely chances of doing 40k within the year. For a few months in order to settle house, I can room a bit. Not sure if I want to call in a favor, though...

One problem is that I've been an independent worker (basically self-employed) for the past 10 years. I have lots of vacation time thanks to being in the education business. I will have to more than likely learn to adapt to the US corporate climate and being at a desk instead of in the action.

Of course, I'm thinking headhunter and possibly a career consultant. I don't mind paying for professional help. ( :P not that kind )


I am really torn because I realize that without taking a radical step to change what I'm doing now I'll be doing the same thing 10-20 years down the road at probably the same salary.

I have thought out the possiblities of risking everything and move into a $200 flat and go all out for the company. Build up another location and what not. However, at the moment I am not sure risking 6-12 months of rent, utilities, and time is worth or not. The economy up here s*cks bad, we haven't seen a positive growth in years.

Investing in property = trying down and rebuilding structures every 30 years. Including various other problems like Yakuza.

I have also thought about branching out into another line of work. Like importing from the states ... but ... thoughts stop when I think about focusing on what I have now.

If I do make a change in my current situation, I do realize that a 2-4 years will have to be followed up on. Jumping around isn't really part of me. Make the commitment and follow through until I have given it a fair chance.

Anybody have any thoughts?
How about complaints

[dd74]

1st question: is it true every car produced in Japan has some sort of chip that won't let it exceed about 110 mph? I can't remember where I heard this, but damn if I'll live in a country where I can't metal it on the open highway....

2nd question: what do you do in Sapporo? Are you a teacher? There will always be a high demand for teachers here in the second largest school district in the United States.

Look, I'd say "Come home" as well, but the fact is, we've got a pretty nasty recession going on here in SoCal.

[livi]

Very interesting post, Carsten. To learn what life can look like in the far east.

What made you go there to begin with? It is a long way from home and very different culture. Do I understand correctly that you have a child there, that you have had to give up on all together?

Completely impossible for us to speculate what would be best. Somewhere down the line of life, I suppose most people long back to their roots. Again growing a need for the life, culture, language, traditions and nuances they grow up with.

I would say, if you do not have affiliations of hard core character, like family/friends, that keep you there - and you have started to attract the thought of moving back - then that is probably the thing to do.

[911Rob]

Yeah I'm a roots guy too.
15 years is a long time, but if you feel its time then being closer to Dad could be a good thing.
Might be a phase you're going through?
Best to think about it, make up your mind, put the decision away for a few days and revisit it again?
Good Luck Buddy!

[KFC911]

"You got to move, You got to move..." - Jagger/Richards

[Sapporo Guy]

Thanks guys !!!

1st question: is it true every car produced in Japan has some sort of chip that won't let it exceed about 110 mph? I can't remember where I heard this, but damn if I'll live in a country where I can't metal it on the open highway....

In a sense, this was true at one time. In 1991 I was in a car that had a beep governor (errr, actually a horrible beeping sound) that would go on when you hit 100 kmh (63 mph).

I don't really know what happened to them. I think some time in 1993 they stopped doing that. Too many people were modding their cars. I'll ask a buddy when I get a chance. I have NEVER been past 150 km/h

Laws versus Rules
The Japanese way of doing things is really different. If you follow the rules you can basically break the rules. However, break a rule and the law will nail your butt.

* Speed traps are ALWAYS located in the same places.
* They have signs warning you of the camera up ahead.
: Radio DJ's inform you of when it's the National Catch a Speeder week.
* 500cc patrol cars chase 5.0L monsters -- I wonder if this is a game at times
* Older cameras use film so ... they either run out a lot or they are set high enough to offset the film costs with the fine.
* a good $400 speed dectotor keeps you out of trouble ...normally ...
* I've had friends when they blew past the speed guns, say to the cops that it was probably somebody from work who was driving. No ticket !!
* IF you do get caught or pull over to get the ticket, you are nailed. No, fighting the system ... you followed the law not the rules.
* Highway driving is 100kmh (63 mph) so ... it's sort of like LA ... drive as fast as you can and hope no 5.0L Lexus sedan, Mitsubishi 2000GT, the white patrol bikes pulls up behind you.
* city limits are basically, 30 kmh, 50kmh and 60kmh for open areas. (18, 31 and 38 mph) --- the country that builds the GTR and NSX ... WTF ?!?!!? which might be why the cops are so generous in sitting out with their speed guns on days that are "nice" ( about a nice 25c / 73f with a slight layer of clouds) NEVER on days that are cold, rainy and too hot.

2nd question: what do you do in Sapporo? Are you a teacher? There will always be a high demand for teachers here in the second largest school district in the United States.

I'm a English Conversation Teacher (basically ESL -- English as a Second Language). I teach junior high, high school, kindergartens and have my own company classes with mostly elementary kids. It's a blast and love the younger kids alot!
I never did get my credentials from UCSB. I actually studied Japanese and sort of minored in Economics. UCSB didn't offer a minor at the time. I payed for my own school through loans and work, so I really did care what my parents had to say about what I was studying. If they wanted to complain I would have gladly offered them my bills to pay. I wish I had known better back then!

I did think of getting my emergency credentials and give "real" teaching a shot. But, if I were to go back, I'd prefer doing something at a University level. I love sharing what I know, especially about Japan. Japan is not what you see in the movies but more like experience in your neighborhood but with a slightly "twisted" common sense.

What made you go there to begin with?

It's sort of in the family
Mother ran in the middle of the night from the Russians when Germany was collapsing after WWII. My father could stand being 22/23 with a 9 o'clock curfew, so split the country figuring he didn't want to crawl back home like his older brothers. Parents met in Toronto and I ended being born south of Buffalo!

It was my major in college.
In 1987 I predicted that China would be a hot spot to work in after 20 years. 2007 ... I missed the mark. But I was dam close.
However, that was derailed in college when I met a cute girl with a green card. I ended up in Sapporo because of another cute girl (actually a model )

Letting the little guy do the thinking can lead to interesting decisions in life

I would say, if you do not have affiliations of hard core character, like family/friends, that keep you there - and you have started to attract the thought of moving back - then that is probably the thing to do.

Only family in the states are direct. Through mother and father. errr, some shirt tail cousins in Cable, Wisconsin ... others are either in Germany or Denmark. I tend to call Thousand Oaks, Oxnard, Santa Barbara and San Deigo home in the States.

It is a long way from home and very different culture.

It is a different place to live. If you are just visiting it is even better!
However, most people are pretty dam down to earth people and you'd pretty hard to find a better place to live ... However I do love Denmark. My relatives and the people I met were just awesome! However the other half of my family -- the Germans .... errr ... #$%&%

Do I understand correctly that you have a child there, that you have had to give up on all together?

yep, I lost my daughter in divorce. My ex keeps claiming that "she" (the daughter ?!??!) needs to adjust before allowing visitation rights.

In Japan, child custody basically goes automatically to the mother unless you are well funded with cash or the mother would rather not have a kid. This even means if the mother has been caught for smoking or possesion of weed.

Police or Child welfare will not up-hold any judgement against the mother for breaking the visitation of a father. The courts will just make her pay you $30 per month that you got screwed out of. Not worth the hassle.

So, fathers basically stop paying child support and find a new person.

The only hope is that my ex will come around one day or my daughter will get older and find her way to me. I could try the courts later when she is older than 10 years old but that's still another 5 years away. She's 5 now.



It would be nice to be near close family again. Dad is 65 and the way he drives he'll probably wrap his car around some telephone pole or launch it from one of those roads that lead into Malibu. I think that is why he got that monster which has independent computer chips for breaking and breakaway body. Truly a wonderful car. Took it on Decker Rd. Amazing how a huge sedan like that can feel slightly better than my SC in the turns


I really have been thinking about this for about 6 months ...the thing that are keeping me really here are:
* the hope that some day, maybe, I'll see my daughter again
* to be honest, the comfort of being somewhere I'm used to
* my company, I don't to shut it down and put my students out on the street or sell it off to somebody I don't really know
* I can quit my jr/high school jobs at the end of the school year, well, I could screw em over but that's not my style
* the city and the scenery that can cause car accidents

But ... job wise ... SoCal is really attractive. Which is why I figured I ask you all!
This place is really full of experience


Sorry for the long post

[frogger]

If you come back to the US, I imagine you could teach ESL and Japanese. Perhaps you could hook up with a community college.

[Joeaksa]

I spent 15 years living and working overseas. Loved it but there came a time when I realized that my job potential was much stronger back home. Moved back to CONUS and lucky for me I was right and doing very well within 6 months of arriving.

Been here just over 11 years now and still enjoy being "back home" but working around the world on a contract basis doing 1-3 months out on the road, then returning home for 1-3 months time off. On the verge of retiring but still working part time overseas because the work is so much fun and pay is good.

Ever thought of trying New Zealand or Australia doing the same job? Have a family member who has done that for years and loves it.

Another thing to consider is returning home to spend some time with Mom and Dad. They are getting up there and last thing you want is for one or both of them to pass and your then thinking that you should have spent more time with them while you could have.

Joe

[Tobra]

Too bad about the kid, you should go see your parents.

What is it with Toronto and Germans? My dad's parents were Volga Germans and went through there on the way to Scottsbluff, NB.

Get your teaching credential and teach Japanese someplace.

[David]

Knowing Japanese as an American seems like it would open many doors over here. Perhaps as a liason between a US and Japanese company?

On a side note, tomorrow I'm going to Osaka, Japan for the first time. Any last minute words of wisdom?

[scottmandue]

I have no advice...

In fact I am in the the exact opposite position...

Born and stuck in SoCal my whole life, aways wanted to run away to someplace more exotic and/or with less crime/pollution and friendlier people.

But family, friends, and work kept me here... don't get me wrong SoCal is a great place to be"stuck" in, great food, great entertainment, lots of beautiful but sometimes shallow or just downright mean people, close to lots of beautiful nature.

Now that mom and dad are in the eighties and I'm in my fifties don't know that I will ever get away... maybe someday.

This post probably isn't much help but maybe it will give you a different perspective.

Oh and remember half the people over here are nucking futs and will run you over and/or try to kill you just for being.

[911Rob]

If you decide to move back to the States, I'd take a serious look at your income earning potential? The amounts you stated in your post are simply at poverty levels IMO? You should be able to make 6 figures a year regardless;

I teach business to students here; I'd be happy to help ya out buddy!

The Concept:
$100,000/yr
$8,333/mo
$380/day
$40/hr

Based on a 22 day work month, 10 hr work day, the minimum you should expect to earn is $40/hr. Unless your job is your absolute passion, then work is about making money; Why not make the most you can in the least amount of time? IMHO.

Even the 'carpenters' that work for me make more than $40/hr!

Happy to help out, email me.

[Sapporo Guy]

Thanks all!

@125shifter

OSAKA!!!!
That is one crazy town. Different than Tokyo but way fun, especially if you like "noisy" people.
Osaka has some great drinking locations, even if you don't drink, I'd still recommend trying to go to a place in town, it is just so ... different. Don't do the hotel thingy, get out, eat at some of those wayside stand looking shops , try to see the concret castle, the TV tower, there is also "electronics town" NihonBashi which is almost as good as the one in Tokyo, the underground shopping complex in Umeda (get a map!!!), so much to do ....

2 major drinking areas: ShinsaiBashi and Umeda. Umeda is higher end and you should be able to run across "real" geisha ... these are not the Kyoto type so you can save money and get an almost genuine experience. No diddling with the ladies. It's all onboard. ShinsaiBashi has a famous bridge with a neon light of guy running through the the finish -- get your picture taken by somebody walking.

Beware of the guys and ladies trying to pull you into bars. You get no action and pay for expensive drinks just to have a girl sit next to you. There are red light areas to do that and that service is excellent and a low fear factor ... much safer than other asian countries. Don't ask how I know This is just part of being a "Japanese guy".

Have fun!


@ back to topic

I've pondered the idea of doing higher education teaching (community level, +) Being not born in Japan I'd have to nail some of the bugs out of my grammar. However, I have tried my best to live the life as a "Roman" and have had many experiences well within the everyday range. Geisha, Kabuki and such are in Kyoto and are more like the going to Venice and participating in a Mask Ball. I'm not in the underworld scene but have friends that are ex-Yakuza and from what I've heard it's like old school Mafia. Thank goodness that Japan is relatively free from drugs and gangs. Living the "Japanese way" I thought would be interesting for folks studying about Japan. lolo, at times I think of Japan as being Bi-Polar Then again. Many countries are. Like Hollywood vs. coal miners.

I'm not too keen on going full time as a teacher of regular school "English". It's not my passion. I love teaching and have worked hard to be able to teach English to Japanese but to fellow Americans lacks all the fun of teaching "culture and social skills" (haha, me ??? ) These tangents make class interesting and exciting for me, otherwise I'd be thinking about all the great writers and ... nahhh

Which got me thinking about liason/consulting work. This would fufill my thirst for sharing what I know and teaching. I'd hopely also get a chance to travel back and forth. I don't think that being away for long would be really possible. This place is "home" to me now. hmmmm


As for mom and dad. I'm starting to get to that age to remember about family. So, yes, this has started to make me think even harder about what my priorities are and what country they should be in.

Toronto ... love the city and CNE there. I think it has somethign to do with easy immigration laws and being a major point of entry for the East coast while Vancouver gets the pacific rim traffic.


lolo, yes, SoCal is a bit out there. South LA more so than North of LA. why ??? But that does bring up the point. I will have to readjust to the "new" culture and "new" way of doings. I had culture shock at how everybody was "friendly" by saying "hi" ... lolo, that totally caught me off guard and I came across as some weirdo foreignor ... ughhhhhhhhhhh

@ Rob
Thanks!!!

I'm going to think about those numbers. I did this years ago when I first came and had worked my way up to good monthlies .... this last year my divorce took a lot out of me, lost my hoarded cash and took the wind out of me. But, the kick back and recover period has to end. Which is why I started hanging out here in OT. A lot of you guys are amazing.

I agree $100k is what I'll to make the transition back to SoCal work. However, I am willing to try other cities. SoCal is just a "comfort zone".

I'll be firing off an email late today! Thanks!

[nostatic]

Have you thought about China? That is the current land of opportunity. If you know any Mandarin (or can learn fast), your English and Japanese would make you a rather useful commodity.

If my ex and kid were in Japan, not sure I'd make a move to the states. That would pretty much end any chance of being involved. China at least is a reasonable plane trip away.

You need to make crazy money to be comfortable in SoCal. Teaching ain't gonna cut it imho. Unless you want to live in a less-than-desirable area. Which can be ok...some places are regentrifying. But it will be a bit of a shock relative to Sapporo.

[Sapporo Guy]

China was my goal back in 1987
That was when I had thought China would be rocking in 2007.

Missed it by a bit, but still ...

Mandarin is a differnent beast, grammar is more similar to English and the characters are some what similar but ... different enough that I'd make mistakes like :: toilet paper for letter

hmmmmmm ... I never did think of country jumping that way ... Thanks!

[The Gaijin]

Originally Posted by Sapporo Guy

Ok, gonna steal the thread.

I'm starting to think that my time has come to return home.
38 and have been here for 15 years.
Pretty fluent in the language (reading still needs work) and have a firm grasp on the culture, society and markets.


I have also thought about branching out into another line of work. Like importing from the states ... but ... thoughts stop when I think about focusing on what I have now.



Anybody have any thoughts?
How about complaints

Wow - Sapporo Man - you are going to have to call me one day. Send me a PM.

I did a few years in "Do-Nan" and yes the economy does stink. I went back after 10 years and it was like the land that time forgot. Really nothing had changed...

The fundamental truth is that the boom is over and has been over for 20 years. Those that got out a little ahead of me got great jobs with Honda in Ohio or Wall Street. But those days are over. There are thousands and thousands of Japanese kids graduating American colleges ever year (and would much rather stay here in the USA) and they a native born speakers with an American education, often an MBA. So companies(both Japanese and American) looking to recruit those with skills that you posses would rather hire these kids than you. (Or me.)

Also, working a Japanese company (even the biggest and best of them) is pretty crummy. You are always seconded guessed and rarely give much real authority. And they don't give a tinker's dam about your language skills or time in Japan.

As a student and then for a few extra months - I worked as a carpenter's apprentice and taught a little English to help pay the bills. I had a great time, but wanted to get to the big city and move forward with my career. I wound up in the offices of one of the top trading Japanese trading companies in New York. You would think top company, top overseas office, all grads of the best universities - but most of the Japanese expats I worked with were narrow minded, bigoted, boorish and unpleasant. Just an awful experience.

Making money at anything than language (or sometimes music) seems to be problematic for outsiders in Japan. They very much have a mercantilist attitude towards us, and making one's own way in Japan - or trading with Japan from this end is loaded with all kinds of disincentives. If you are an American on either end, here in the US or over in Japan, somebody will try and end run you or cut you out..

Basically, I have worked myself into a place where I have nothing to do with Japanese business. The place opened my eyes to a lot and helps me look at things differently. As an experince in my life - it is a net plus. But actually making a living while have some kind of relationship with Japan?, and a good living? Very, very difficult.


I am glad I got out and am making my way at home. I could not imagine being there till age 50 or 60 and having been an outsider (Gaijin) all my life with no real opportunities. And like most things and places - you are indulged while you are still young. I would not want to be a middle age guy in Japan, still chasing the OLs and looking to go out drinking and Karaoke with my friends.. Your Dad may be right... Good luck.

[David]

Originally Posted by Sapporo Guy

@125shifter

OSAKA!!!!
That is one crazy town. Different than Tokyo but way fun, especially if you like "noisy" people.
Osaka has some great drinking locations, even if you don't drink, I'd still recommend trying to go to a place in town, it is just so ... different. Don't do the hotel thingy, get out, eat at some of those wayside stand looking shops , try to see the concret castle, the TV tower, there is also "electronics town" NihonBashi which is almost as good as the one in Tokyo, the underground shopping complex in Umeda (get a map!!!), so much to do ....

2 major drinking areas: ShinsaiBashi and Umeda. Umeda is higher end and you should be able to run across "real" geisha ... these are not the Kyoto type so you can save money and get an almost genuine experience. No diddling with the ladies. It's all onboard. ShinsaiBashi has a famous bridge with a neon light of guy running through the the finish -- get your picture taken by somebody walking.

Beware of the guys and ladies trying to pull you into bars. You get no action and pay for expensive drinks just to have a girl sit next to you. There are red light areas to do that and that service is excellent and a low fear factor ... much safer than other asian countries. Don't ask how I know This is just part of being a "Japanese guy".

Have fun!

Thanks for the tips.

I'm actually in Takasago which is very industrial. Hopefully I'll get into Osaka this weekend and maybe find my old boss who owns a motorcycle dealership there.

We just got back from our first night out. It was definently an adventure.

It's hard to tell what a bar or restaurant is since they're so small. First we went in a small karaoke bar that couldn't seat more than 15 people. We couldn't communicate but they were very friendly and even bought us a couple beers. They also gave us some seaweed candy and bananas!?!? As we were leaving they gave us a shot of Sake. They closed at 6pm so we left.

Then we went to a restaurant. It wasn't quite as easy as the train station which had samples to pick from. The menu in this place was all Japanese with no pictures. The waitress picked some things for us and we kept ordering the stuff we liked. The menu looked cheap with 150 yen appetisers and 800 yen entrees, but the bill was 13,000 yen so we either ate and drank more than we thought or we got the tourist price. Either way it was fun.

[David]

I need a little help with some money questions, please.

Besides the airport, where can we change dollars and travelers checks to yen? We're in the small town of Takasago but we'll probably go to Kobe or Osaka this weekend.

I think I brought enough money, but some of the guys I'm with are going to be running low pretty soon. Is there anywhere they can use a US ATM card?

Thanks!

[Sapporo Guy]

There are special ATM machines that you can use your credit card at.
You probably won't be able to use your regular bank card though ... not sure since I have been over here too long.

Most large banks and large Post Offices should be able to convert Dollars to Yen.

I've tried hotels before but no go.

How many people were with you when you went out?
Beers are about 500 yen a mug. Depends where you are though.

Watch out for the "Hostess clubs", they drink on your tab, light your cigarettes and don't put out, even when you pay $$$.

Normally small places don't mind the hairy barbarians that seem to be lost barging in You are a rare species to them and they tend to enjoy the mundane routine being broken up every so often even if they think that you are speaking Chinese or what not to them.

Beer mug clanking is a universal language in many distant lands.

Too bad you can't come up to Sapporo. The Snow Festival is in swing until the 11th.
It's really amazing!

lolo, I'd buy you a drink too!

[David]

After trying a few ATM's unsuccessfully, we tried one at a 7-11 and it worked!

I added a little more excitement to the trip a couple nights ago. After too many beers and who know what other drinks, I fell down some stairs. I was feeling no pain at the time, but the next morning my back was killing me. I soldiered through the day, but by the afternoon my host thought it was a good idea to go the hospital. Turns out I broke a small bone in my back. The Dr said it was pretty common with a stair fall. He prescribed some anti-inflamatory pills which I thought were pain pills. Since they were doing nothing for the pain, I went to a pharmacy and asked for something for my back by acting out back pain. They sold me the stuff in picture below and it seems to be helping a little but it may just be a placebo affect.



We took the train from Takasago to Kobe today. That was an adventure in itself but we seemed to manage OK. It also snowed most of the day. In Kobe we wandered into the bath house district, but none of my buddies wanted to shell out about 20,000 yen for a bath so we left.