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Shaun @ Tru6's Avatar
 
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1986 Mercedes 300E

mid 80s 300s to mid 90s 300s all seem to be in the $1500 range for cars with 150K to 200K on the clock. All that I have seen online seem to be well-cared for, relatively handsome cars. couple of local 94/95 wagons that look great actually.

Are these good cars? Diesel vs. gas any difference?

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Old 02-12-2009, 01:46 PM
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124's are great cars, the last of the old, solid tanks. They seems to go forever, until they rust to pieces. Rear fenders, rockers and jack pads are prone to rust, at least around here.
Old 02-12-2009, 01:48 PM
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Thanks Chris, so what is the cut-off year? 1995 last year of the good cars?

I found a 67 200D BTW but it needs a clutch, rear wheel cylinder and not to insignificant rust repair. Interior is very nice though. cheap too.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:55 PM
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The last of the great Benz's were the 126's, Even a top Mercedes engineer agrees.
I own 2, a 1984 500SEC and a 1991 420 SEL
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Old 02-12-2009, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa View Post
mid 80s 300s to mid 90s 300s all seem to be in the $1500 range for cars with 150K to 200K on the clock. All that I have seen online seem to be well-cared for, relatively handsome cars. couple of local 94/95 wagons that look great actually.

Are these good cars? Diesel vs. gas any difference?
I love the w124s. When I was Benz shopping there was a really nice 1995 e300d that I liked, but Mrs Notfarnow wanted something newer. I love my '99, but there is something "old school" about those w124s. And the w140s... hooboy.

I am trying to remember what diesel the 124 had in 1994, but in 1995 it had an early n/a version of the om606. Straight 6, DOHC, 24 valve, crossflow head... it's a great engine. Only thing to watch for on the om606 are seized glowplugs. They have a tendency to carbon up and seize, and then bust off in the head when you try to remove them. That often means the head has to come off, so it can get spendy. I had it happen, but managed to drill & tap the GP and make a puller to yank it out. I was lucky.

Anyway, as with other cars I think the key is finding a well-maintained car with records and then getting a PPI. Even with a ~2k car, I think it's worth getting a specialist to check it out... there are lots out there so you might as well get one that checks out.

For me, getting a good used Benz was one of the sanest decisions I have ever made. I've had it a year and it has been a great car, it's wonderful to work on and parts are surprisingly cheap.
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:08 PM
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Thanks Jake.

These are out of my price range:
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/ctd/1031349757.html

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/ctd/1031355569.html

but would be perfect for me as I need cargo space.


This is a nice car, he's asking $1500/BO for it.

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/1030939727.html

I'm looking because, A. I need a date car, B. the 4Runner is driving me crazy. Installed the waterpump/timing belt, etc., all went well, but somehow it's sucking air into the cooling system.

I have it narrowed down (I think) to getting the wrong pump that didn't have a little inlet/outlet tube tapped into the thermostat housing that connects to something mounted on the block. It's not in any of the Haynes manuals, can't find what it is, haven't had a chance to investigate. Another option is that I may have some type of blown headgasket that pushes air into the system, but the truck doesn't overheat. it's only when too much air gets in that I have a pressure problem.

Need something deadbolts reliable, and "nice" to drive around in while the E is still up in the air, and I don't have to rely on the 4Runner.
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:26 PM
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I owned 7 renaults, so I've experienced every possible type of headgasket problem. Sounds like you have a cylinder or two pumping combustion gas into a coolant passage. I've had that happen before, without ANY coolant loss. Does it work OK if you run it without a rad cap?

Yours is a 3.0 v6 right? I've heard that they're prone to HG issues if they overheat.
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:59 PM
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My 1988 300E has around 350k on the clock and the only thing major was the updated water pump, though its starting to show its age as the rubber is rotting.

Still going strong.
Old 02-12-2009, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notfarnow View Post
I owned 7 renaults, so I've experienced every possible type of headgasket problem. Sounds like you have a cylinder or two pumping combustion gas into a coolant passage. I've had that happen before, without ANY coolant loss. Does it work OK if you run it without a rad cap?

Yours is a 3.0 v6 right? I've heard that they're prone to HG issues if they overheat.
I'll try driving it with the cap on loosely. I think you are right. I have had good luck iwth a product called Steel Seal in fixing minor blown head gaskets. May try that.
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Old 02-12-2009, 04:10 PM
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well the other thing to keep in mind is that if you had the WP off and the block drained, you may just have an air lock. Seriously... don't rule it out. Last year I did a HG on a friend's VW golf (just like the one you did, actually), and when it was all buttoned back together I took it for the "victory run". Well, half a mile up the road the temp started climbing, I turned around came home and found the rad hoses REALLY pressurized. Coolant puked out the resevoir cap. Let it idle for a while and it was fine, but when I took it for another drive it did EXACTLY the same thing. I just went to bed, and pretty much vowed I'd never be a volunteer mechanic again.

Next morning, same thing. Then I decided to drive it around with the resevoir cap off, and bingo. Drove it around for 20 minutes like that, and whatever bubble was there worked its way out.

And now that I think of it, when I first got my 4runner I changed the lower rad hose and had an airlock too. Did the same thing, drove with the rad cap loose and it worked itself out.

Try that, take 2 tylenol and call me in the morning
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Old 02-12-2009, 04:24 PM
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My old man has a like new 1982 300-SD. I'm telling you the thing still smells like it did the day it rolled off the factory. Has a blown oil cooler. Next time I am in Colorado I plan on helping him fix it. One thing I know he hated about the car is that it sucked in the snow. Other than that he drove it pretty religously without complaint.

I remember one time he picked me up from soccer practice in it, and I had to hold my dirty feet up off the floor the whole ride home as to not get his carpet dirty. My quads were feeling the burn.
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Old 02-12-2009, 04:26 PM
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Jake, I thought that too, especially since this has a rear cabin heater core. I cut and blocked the lines going back (less weight on removing the thing) and have done everything I know under the sun, BUT I have not tried the cap loose. That may do it, thanks.


Rich, you bastard! Will mail you late tonight...making shirts on and off the computer. I expect these would be bad in the snow, but just need something (unless the 4Runner is fixed with Jake's advice) to get me through the spring/summer.
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Old 02-12-2009, 04:33 PM
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actually you know if I had <2k to spend on a MB I'd for sure be looking at w126 300SD's. They are tough as $chit, have tons of rooms and there are a kazillion parts cars on the east coast.

My dad has an '83 300sd that is not pampered at all like Rich's dad's. My father beats the bajeezuz out of that thing, it is truly shameful. He whips it mercilessly day in/day out, summer and winter... and it never flinches. It just goes and goes.

like 126coupe said, many people say these are the "best" cars that MB ever made (although some argue that the w140 deserves that spot). Either way, they are great cars. And that 5cyl om617 is the stuff of legends. Loves veggie oil too... you know anyone who runs a restaurant?

Downside: no 300sd wagons
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+ a whole bunch of boats

Last edited by notfarnow; 02-12-2009 at 04:47 PM..
Old 02-12-2009, 04:44 PM
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Just remember, my W202 is the first car I couldn't make myself sell. That's saying something.

The W124 is a great car, I drove a '94 E420 before buying my C36. Build quality surpasses everything else I've had. On the early '90s ('92?) through '96 they had issues with engine wire harnesses that broke down with heat, normally requiring replacement at 100k or so for $600-ish. They were also prone to headgasket leaks. Otherwise they're absolutely bulletproof. If you can spend a little more, the V8 models have really good power.

While not as fancy, don't cross off a W201 either (190E). They are also really good cars.
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Old 02-12-2009, 06:04 PM
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If you havent already looked, this is a pretty good description of the model: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W124

After doing a bunch of work to everything from 116's up I really like the 124's. 126's were great, but the 124 was a big improvement in handling. Sure, it's hard to beat a 300sd on 75mph for a few hours, but the 124 uses space much more efficiently. Generally the cars are very simple to repair, similar to a 3.2 911.

You should be very picky if you are shopping, pay a little more for one that's not too rusty and in good shape. Lots of them are falling apart and held together with duct tape and sheet metal screws.
Old 02-12-2009, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Martin View Post
Generally the cars are very simple to repair, similar to a 3.2 911.
that's all you needed to say. In my experience, there's no better balance in quality and ease of repair in all of autodom than the 84-89 Carrera.

If I can get the 4Runner worked out, I can afford to be picky.

the 86 above, though not a wagon, was owned by an older woman, the kind that takes it in for repair every time something, even little things, goes wrong.
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:07 AM
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This is semi in your region: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=256650211&dealer_id=89034&car_year=1992&rdm=1234530924912&model=190_CLASSCLASS_SERIES&num_records=25&systime=&make3=&make2=MB&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=0&marketZipError=false&model2=300_CLASS_E_CLASSCLASS_SERIES&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=MB&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=1&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=67226&advanced=&end_year=2010&doors=&transmission=&max_price=2000&cardist=811&standard=false

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=254042807&dealer_id=54067426&car_year=1985&rdm=1234530924912&model=190_CLASSCLASS_SERIES&num_records=25&systime=&make3=&make2=MB&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=0&marketZipError=false&model2=300_CLASS_E_CLASSCLASS_SERIES&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=MB&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=1&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=67226&advanced=&end_year=2010&doors=&transmission=&max_price=2000&cardist=881&standard=false

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=241848580&dealer_id=55982485&car_year=1991&rdm=1234530924912&model=190_CLASSCLASS_SERIES&num_records=25&systime=&make3=&make2=MB&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=0&marketZipError=false&model2=300_CLASS_E_CLASSCLASS_SERIES&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=MB&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=1&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=67226&advanced=&end_year=2010&doors=&transmission=&max_price=2000&cardist=1381&standard=false

Just a few quickies. You should also browse the classifieds forums at mercedesshop.com. There always seems to be the highest concentration of older stuff on there, as compared to the other MB forums.
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Old 02-13-2009, 04:23 AM
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thanks Matt, I can't do a 190 though. Reminds me of a Cadillac Cimmaron.
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Old 02-13-2009, 04:32 AM
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Picky picky. They're not my favorite either, but they're cheap and reliable. Supposedly there's an interview out there where a Mercedes engineer claims they screwed up the W201 (190E) platform by spending too many engineering hours on it, therefore driving down their profit margin. Basically "over engineering" it. How about one of these 190E models:



A bit more than $2k, but still a bargain. Someday I think they'll probably be worth something, the 2.3 16V was a pretty special car.
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Old 02-13-2009, 04:37 AM
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The 300E has a M103 engine in it. Assuming proper maintainence etc, still expect to do the top end and timing chain at 200K. When I had mine donw, I spoke to the owner of the machine shop and he said the same. Right around 200K is when he sees a lot of M103 heads coming in.
There is a factory service manual for this engine. MBUSA does not sell it anyone, but I see copies every now and then for sale. The M103 is also in the w126 300SE/SEL's. So if you get the w126 service manual, it will work as well.
I have owned my M103 for a few years now. I do not drive it much anymore but expect I will soon when both my kids are in school. (The 2 seater works fine for having one kid in school)
The engine is fairly easy to work on. Parts can be expensive but not too bad. The community at benzworld can help with a lot of DIY stuff.

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Old 02-13-2009, 04:38 AM
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